Paul Preuss

This article is about the alpinist Paul Preuss. For other people see Paul Preuss .

Paul Preuss

Paul Preuss , also Paul Preuss , (born August 19, 1886 in Altaussee , † October 3, 1913 on the Gosaukamm ) was an Austrian mountaineer .

Life

Paul Preuss was born in Altaussee ( Styria ) into a Jewish family as the son of the piano teacher Eduard Preuss and his wife Caroline, née Lauchheim, and suffered from infectious paralysis as a child, from which he only slowly recovered on hikes. He grew up in Vienna and studied biology in Munich . He later did a PhD in plant physiology . Although he converted to Protestantism in Munich in 1909, he was considered a "Jew" by the National Socialists and was hushed up whenever possible. He died on a solo ascent on the Mandlkogel in the Gosaukamm ( Salzkammergut ).

Services

Preuss was one of the most famous mountaineers of his time, not only famous for his achievements but also for his motto. His demand that one must be able to freely climb the climbing points that one climbs to the top is particularly recognized in climbing circles . Today he is considered one of the spiritual fathers of free climbing and one of the best climbers of his time.

Paul Preuss fell from the upper section of the northern edge of the Mandlkogel at the age of only 27 . Some of his equipment was found on a ledge at the end of the ridge. The circumstances of the crash could not be clarified. In his short life he made more than 1,200 rock, skiing and mountaineering, including 150 first ascents and 300 ascents in alone . He deliberately refrained from using any safety devices or tools, he even refused to abseil .

The climbing principles

The principles that Paul Preuss formulated for climbing are as follows:

1. "Mountain tours that you undertake shouldn't be grown, but considered."
2. "The degree of difficulty that a climber is able to surmount with certainty on the descent and that he trusts himself with a clear conscience must represent the upper limit of what he can do on the ascent."
3. "The authorization for the use of artificial aids therefore only arises in the event of an imminent danger."
4. "The wall hook is an emergency reserve and not the basis of a working method."
5. "The rope should be a means of relief, but never the sole saving means that enables the ascent of the mountains."
6. “One of the highest principles is the principle of safety. But not the convulsive correction of one's own insecurity achieved through artificial aids, but that primary security, which should be based on the correct assessment of his ability to his will for every climber. "

First ascents

Some of the approximately 150 first ascents by Paul Preuss are:

• Sandling , west wall
• Grohmannspitze , south face
• Traweng , north face
• Kleiner Litzner , southwest ridge and north ridge
• Great Seehorn , northeast face
• Großer Litzner , north face
• Donnerkogel , northwest ridge
• Guglia di Brenta , east face and first crossing
• Crozzon di Brenta , northeast face
• Langkofel - Fünffingerspitze - Grohmannspitze - Sellajoch , the first crossing in one day
• Delagoturm , south chimney
• Small pinnacle , first double crossing
• Smallest pinnacle , first ascent and crossing
• Trisselwand
• Hochwanner , north ridge
• Mitterkaiser, north summit
• Aiguille Gamba
• Aiguille Joseph Croux, south ridge
• L´Innominata, southeast ridge
• Aiguille Savvie southeast ridge
• Pointe Papillon, main summit
• Strichkogel , east face
• Wasserkartum, east wall
• Tom Thumb
• Große Bischofsmütze , south wall
• Gosauer Mandl
• Freyaturm, north edge
• Schafkogel, north face

Evidence of remembrance

Paul Preuss Hut (2243 m)

Paul Preuss Monument, Altaussee

The smallest pinnacle of the Three Peaks in the Italian Dolomites , the Preuss Tower, was named in his honor, as was the Paul-Preuss-Strasse in Munich - Feldmoching and the Preuss-Hütte in the Rosengartengruppe , which was built in his memory by Tita Piaz 20 years after his death has been.

On the occasion of the hundredth year of his death in 2013 in Altaussee, in the presence of Reinhold Messner, a Walter Angerer d. J. created a shadow sculpture in memory of Paul Preuss.

In 2014 mountaineers and alpine journalists from Austria, Bavaria and South Tyrol founded the International Paul Preuss Society (IPPG). Reinhold Messner is the honorary chairman . The Paul Preuss Prize is awarded annually to a mountaineer whose attitude and performance reflect the Preuss principles.

literature

• Andi Dick: Climbing in the footsteps of Paul Preuss: On the way of the dancer. In: DAV Panorama. 6, 2010, pp. 94-97. Appreciation of Paul Preuss as a Jewish mountaineer.
• Peter Grimm:  Preuss, Paul. In: New German Biography (NDB). Volume 20, Duncker & Humblot, Berlin 2001, ISBN 3-428-00201-6 , p. 711 f. ( Digitized version ).
• R. Hösch:  Preuss Paul. In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 (ÖBL). Volume 8, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna 1983, ISBN 3-7001-0187-2 , p. 271.
• Reinhold Messner : Paul Preuss. Berg bei Bruckmann, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7654-2855-8 .
• Reinhold Messner: Free climbing with Paul Preuss. BLV, 1986, ISBN 3405131286 .
• Richard Hechtel: A hundred years of rock climbing . The story of a social phenomenon. Ed .: Bayerland section of the German Alpine Club . Redwood City / California USA 2003, ISBN 978-3-00-033616-4 , Paul Preuss and the Guglia di Brenta , p. 39–42 ( alpenverein-bayerland.de [PDF; accessed on September 8, 2018]).

Web links

Commons : Paul Preuß  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

• Martin Grabner: Paul Preuss, founder of free climbing. derStandard.at, accessed on April 5, 2016 (biography). 
• Paul Preuss. In: Mountain Future. Austrian Alpine Club, accessed on June 7, 2012 (biography; the site recently requires a user and a password .). 
• Personal folder on Paul Preuß (I) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
• Personal folder on Paul Preuß (II) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
• Personal folder on Paul Preuß (III) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

1. ↑ ^{a b} Sebastian Hofer: Paul Preuß: 100 years ago the philosopher of free climbing had an accident. Profile from June 28, 2013, accessed November 10, 2018 . 
2. ↑ ^{a b} Andi Dick: On the way of the dancer - climbing in the footsteps of Paul Preuss. (PDF; 341 kB) In: DAV Panorama. Deutscher Alpenverein, December 2010, p. 95 , accessed on June 7, 2012 . 
3. ↑ Mirko Weber: What is the Jew looking for in the mountains? (No longer available online.) In: Stuttgarter Zeitung. May 13, 2009, formerly in the original ; Retrieved November 13, 2010 .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  
4. ↑ Martin Grabner: Paul Preuss, founder of free climbing. Bergstieg.com, accessed June 7, 2012 (biography). 
5. ↑ Paul Preuss. (No longer available online.) In: Mountain Future. Austrian Alpine Club, archived from the original on September 28, 2007 ; accessed on June 7, 2012 (biography; the site now requires a user and a password.). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
6. ↑ Reinhold Messner: The philosopher of free climbing - The story of Paul Preuss . 1st edition. Pieper Verlag, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-492-40416-7 , p. 41 f .
7. ^ Alpenpost: Unveiling Paul Preuss - Sculpture in Altaussee 2013; PDF , Retrieved October 6, 2014
8. ^ International Paul Preuss Society. International Paul Preuss Society, accessed September 8, 2018 .