seriousness
The term seriousness are in Climbing the hedge technical and psychological requirements and the risk of a climbing route summarized. In addition to the exogenous climbing difficulty , the physical fitness and the endogenous climbing ability , the seriousness is another important criterion in tour planning.
In contrast to a widespread misjudgment, the difficulty and danger of climbing routes have largely been independent of one another, especially since the development of modern sport climbing . Better protection options have meant that even technically extremely demanding sport climbing routes can only be associated with a very low risk, whereas even technically not particularly difficult alpine climbing routes can be risky even for experienced alpinists .
The concept of seriousness has several aspects. An essential criterion is the quality of the protection. The greater the distances between the securing points , the poorer quality they are and the higher the requirements for the climber with regard to the use of mobile securing points ( clamping wedges , friends , ...), the higher the risk of injury in the event of a fall. Other factors include psychological stress (e.g. exposure, fragility), poor climatic conditions and the lack of opportunities to quickly withdraw from the route in the event of problems. Objective dangers such as falling rocks or ice avalanches are also included in the assessment of seriousness.
Seriousness scales
For a long time, when evaluating climbing routes, hardly any distinction was made between difficulty and seriousness. Earlier levels of difficulty often tried to include seriousness in the difficulty rating : Older definitions of the UIAA scale also include aspects of seriousness, and the English difficulty scale also includes the quality of assurance. Since such joint evaluations have often proven to be problematic due to the differentiation of climbing sport in recent decades (e.g. development of sport climbing), there is an increasing attempt to use scales (E-scales) that are independent of the difficulty ratings for the seriousness of routes. to develop. So far, however, there is still no generally recognized and standardized severity scale. There are also scales for other forms of climbing such as ice climbing and bouldering , which have been adapted to the special requirements of these sports.
An example of a severity scale is the SAC safety scale of the Swiss Alpine Club or the English difficulty scale .
Web links
- Markus Stadler: Seriousness rating Wilder Kaiser. Retrieved October 30, 2008 . Example of a seriousness rating
- Proposal for a seriousness scale from the German Alpine Club ( Memento from June 25, 2009 in the Internet Archive )
- Seriousness assessment (PDF; 80 kB) by Robert Jasper , accessed on August 23, 2010
Individual evidence
- ↑ Dieter Elsner, Alfred Flür, Wolfgang Hofer, Siegfried Moschen, Jürgen Schafroth, Rudolf Stadlwieser: Climbing Guide Lechtal Alps. Alpine goals & climbing gardens . 2nd Edition. Panico alpinverlag, Köngen 2005, ISBN 3-926807-16-4 , p. 12-13 .
- ↑ Difficulty rating on steep ice (ice fall climbing). (No longer available online.) SAC Baselland, archived from the original on August 17, 2005 ; Retrieved October 30, 2008 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
