SAC security scale

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The SAC security scale is a technical seriousness scale developed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) . Here the route is evaluated according to the possibilities of securing , distance and reliability of the hooks . The psychological component is not assessed.

Structure of the scale

  1. The scale applies to climbers who are at the most difficult point in the uppermost range of their possibilities.
  2. The lowest value of the main criteria applies to the overall evaluation of a route.
  3. In the description header, if there are major deviations within the route, the range is indicated: "P close, 1st pitch good" or "P good to very good".
  4. The detailed information about the required material belongs in the description header.
  5. In the case of extremely short distances between hooks, the note "suitable for children" should appear in the description header. Routes of max. A length of 25 m, which can be secured from the ground, will be marked “ Top rope possible”.
  6. With the exception of "P very good" (and possibly good), it should be added how well natural security options can be used and what they consist of ( cracks , jagged edges, hourglasses , trees ).

Example:

P **, nat: good , a few spikes and enough cracks for rocks

Main criteria

Degree Booths Placement of the intermediate fuses Type of securing points
P ****
 Textbook set up, reasonable pitches Optimally secured in all difficult and sensitive areas, distances adapted to the level of difficulty throughout, very low risk of serious falls Stands : solid ring or two solid anchors
belay : glue anchor or new bolts
P ***
(possibly + nat) 		All stands are set up Well secured at all difficult points, distances largely adapted to the difficulties Newer bolts
P **
+ nat 		Most stands are min. a hook provided Isolated difficult passages only moderately secured and / or sometimes quite large hook spacing, dangerous falls are possible Older bolts , normal hooks , loops
P alpine
+ nat 		Only a few hooks stuck Only a few fixed points exist Mostly old material
P 0
+ nat 		Not equipped No No
P?
 Questionable, uncommon route. The furnishings cannot be assessed at the moment.

Natural security options

Degree Number of possibilities Setting or laying the fuses
nat: very good abundant very easily possible
nat: good enough usually goes well
nat: almost in parts rather sparse difficult, requires solid experience
nat: lean very few very challenging

See also

Web links