SAC security scale
The SAC security scale is a technical seriousness scale developed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) . Here the route is evaluated according to the possibilities of securing , distance and reliability of the hooks . The psychological component is not assessed.
Structure of the scale
- The scale applies to climbers who are at the most difficult point in the uppermost range of their possibilities.
- The lowest value of the main criteria applies to the overall evaluation of a route.
- In the description header, if there are major deviations within the route, the range is indicated: "P close, 1st pitch good" or "P good to very good".
- The detailed information about the required material belongs in the description header.
- In the case of extremely short distances between hooks, the note "suitable for children" should appear in the description header. Routes of max. A length of 25 m, which can be secured from the ground, will be marked “ Top rope possible”.
- With the exception of "P very good" (and possibly good), it should be added how well natural security options can be used and what they consist of ( cracks , jagged edges, hourglasses , trees ).
Example:
P **, nat: good , a few spikes and enough cracks for rocks |
Main criteria
Degree | Booths | Placement of the intermediate fuses | Type of securing points |
---|---|---|---|
P **** |
Textbook set up, reasonable pitches | Optimally secured in all difficult and sensitive areas, distances adapted to the level of difficulty throughout, very low risk of serious falls |
Stands : solid ring or two solid anchors belay : glue anchor or new bolts |
P *** (possibly + nat) |
All stands are set up | Well secured at all difficult points, distances largely adapted to the difficulties | Newer bolts |
P ** + nat |
Most stands are min. a hook provided | Isolated difficult passages only moderately secured and / or sometimes quite large hook spacing, dangerous falls are possible | Older bolts , normal hooks , loops |
P alpine + nat |
Only a few hooks stuck | Only a few fixed points exist | Mostly old material |
P 0 + nat |
Not equipped | No | No |
P? |
Questionable, uncommon route. The furnishings cannot be assessed at the moment. |
Natural security options
Degree | Number of possibilities | Setting or laying the fuses |
---|---|---|
nat: very good | abundant | very easily possible |
nat: good | enough | usually goes well |
nat: almost | in parts rather sparse | difficult, requires solid experience |
nat: lean | very few | very challenging |
See also
- SAC hiking scale
- SAC mountain and mountaineering scale
- SAC ski touring scale
- SAC snowshoe tour scale
Web links
- Security scale, SAC (PDF file; 49 kB)