SAC mountain and mountaineering scale

The SAC mountain and alpine tour scale is a difficulty scale specially developed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) for high-alpine rock and ice tours . It is used to graduate the individual routes as a reference in normal and dry weather conditions and is based on the key point . The French names are often used as an abbreviation.

Structure of the scale

1. The top value of the main criteria applies to the overall evaluation of a route .
2. From the WS degree, you can use - and + to make fine gradations.
3. In the description header, if there are major deviations within the route, the area is indicated: " ZS +, ascent to the summit ridge WS ".
4. If one of the auxiliary criteria makes it more difficult, the grade is raised by ⅓ level (e.g. from WS + to ZS-), in the case of several by ⅔ levels (from S + to SS).
5. The UIAA scale (with Roman numerals) applies to the climbing areas .
6. With the grade AS and especially with EX, the club leaders have at most one choice.

Main criteria

Degree	rock	UIAA degree	Firn and glaciers	Examples
L light / facile F	Easy walking terrain (scree, simple block ridge).	from I.	Simple firn slopes, hardly any crevices.	Piz Tschierva , east ridge Wildhorn , from the Wildhornhütte Bishorn , from the Tracuithütte
- WS little difficult / peu difficile PD +	Mostly still walking terrain, increased surefootedness required, climbing areas clear and problem-free.	from II	Usually not very steep slopes, short, steep passages, few crevasses.	Piz Palü , normal route Balmhorn , normal route Weissmies , normal route
- ZS quite difficult / assez difficile AD +	Repeated securing necessary, longer and exposed climbing sections.	from III	Steeper slopes, occasionally securing a stand, many crevices, small bergschrund.	Piz Bernina , Biancograt Monk , west ridge Matterhorn , Hörnligrat
- S difficult / difficile D +	A good sense of route and efficient rope handling required, long climbing sections, usually require a secure stand.	from IV	Very steep slopes, mostly securing a stand necessary, many crevices, large bergschrund.	Piz Palü , east pillar of the east summit Eiger , Mittelegigrat Weisshorn , Schaligrat
- SS very difficult / très difficile TD +	In the difficult sections, it is necessary to secure the stand throughout, persistently demanding climbing.	from V	Persistent steep terrain, continuous stand securing.	Piz Bernina , direct west face Doldenhorn , east ridge Dent Blanche , north ridge
- AS extremely difficult / extrêmement difficile ED +	Wall climbs that require great commitment.	from VI	Very steep and vertical places, require ice climbing.	Eiger north face (Heckmair) Matterhorn , Zmuttnase
- EX extremely difficult / abominablement difficile ABO +	Extremely steep, partly overhanging wall passages.	from VII	Ice climbing in extreme directions.	Eiger north face (various routes in the western part of the wall)

Auxiliary criteria

• Demanding orientation
• Difficult protection
• Unreliable rock
• Canceling the tour problematic

See also

• SAC hiking scale
• SAC security scale
• SAC ski touring scale
• SAC snowshoe tour scale

Web links

https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/ausbildung-und-wissen/tourenplanung/schwierigkeitsskalen