SAC mountain and mountaineering scale
The SAC mountain and alpine tour scale is a difficulty scale specially developed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) for high-alpine rock and ice tours . It is used to graduate the individual routes as a reference in normal and dry weather conditions and is based on the key point . The French names are often used as an abbreviation.
Structure of the scale
- The top value of the main criteria applies to the overall evaluation of a route .
- From the WS degree, you can use - and + to make fine gradations.
- In the description header, if there are major deviations within the route, the area is indicated: " ZS +, ascent to the summit ridge WS ".
- If one of the auxiliary criteria makes it more difficult, the grade is raised by ⅓ level (e.g. from WS + to ZS-), in the case of several by ⅔ levels (from S + to SS).
- The UIAA scale (with Roman numerals) applies to the climbing areas .
- With the grade AS and especially with EX, the club leaders have at most one choice.
Main criteria
Degree | rock | UIAA degree | Firn and glaciers | Examples |
---|---|---|---|---|
L light / facile F |
Easy walking terrain (scree, simple block ridge). | from I. | Simple firn slopes, hardly any crevices. |
|
- WS little difficult / peu difficile PD + |
Mostly still walking terrain, increased surefootedness required, climbing areas clear and problem-free. | from II | Usually not very steep slopes, short, steep passages, few crevasses. | |
- ZS quite difficult / assez difficile AD + |
Repeated securing necessary, longer and exposed climbing sections. | from III | Steeper slopes, occasionally securing a stand, many crevices, small bergschrund. |
|
- S difficult / difficile D + |
A good sense of route and efficient rope handling required, long climbing sections, usually require a secure stand. | from IV | Very steep slopes, mostly securing a stand necessary, many crevices, large bergschrund. | |
- SS very difficult / très difficile TD + |
In the difficult sections, it is necessary to secure the stand throughout, persistently demanding climbing. | from V | Persistent steep terrain, continuous stand securing. |
|
- AS extremely difficult / extrêmement difficile ED + |
Wall climbs that require great commitment. | from VI | Very steep and vertical places, require ice climbing. |
|
- EX extremely difficult / abominablement difficile ABO + |
Extremely steep, partly overhanging wall passages. | from VII | Ice climbing in extreme directions. |
|
Auxiliary criteria
- Demanding orientation
- Difficult protection
- Unreliable rock
- Canceling the tour problematic
See also
Web links
https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/ausbildung-und-wissen/tourenplanung/schwierigkeitsskalen