SAC mountain and mountaineering scale

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The SAC mountain and alpine tour scale is a difficulty scale specially developed by the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) for high-alpine rock and ice tours . It is used to graduate the individual routes as a reference in normal and dry weather conditions and is based on the key point . The French names are often used as an abbreviation.

Structure of the scale

  1. The top value of the main criteria applies to the overall evaluation of a route .
  2. From the WS degree, you can use - and + to make fine gradations.
  3. In the description header, if there are major deviations within the route, the area is indicated: " ZS +, ascent to the summit ridge WS ".
  4. If one of the auxiliary criteria makes it more difficult, the grade is raised by ⅓ level (e.g. from WS + to ZS-), in the case of several by ⅔ levels (from S + to SS).
  5. The UIAA scale (with Roman numerals) applies to the climbing areas .
  6. With the grade AS and especially with EX, the club leaders have at most one choice.

Main criteria

Degree rock UIAA degree Firn and glaciers Examples
light / facile
Easy walking terrain (scree, simple block ridge). from I. Simple firn slopes, hardly any crevices.

little difficult / peu difficile
Mostly still walking terrain, increased surefootedness required, climbing areas clear and problem-free. from II Usually not very steep slopes, short, steep passages, few crevasses.

quite difficult / assez difficile
Repeated securing necessary, longer and exposed climbing sections. from III Steeper slopes, occasionally securing a stand, many crevices, small bergschrund.

difficult / difficile
A good sense of route and efficient rope handling required, long climbing sections, usually require a secure stand. from IV Very steep slopes, mostly securing a stand necessary, many crevices, large bergschrund.

very difficult / très difficile
In the difficult sections, it is necessary to secure the stand throughout, persistently demanding climbing. from V Persistent steep terrain, continuous stand securing.

extremely difficult / extrêmement difficile
Wall climbs that require great commitment. from VI Very steep and vertical places, require ice climbing.

extremely difficult / abominablement difficile
Extremely steep, partly overhanging wall passages. from VII Ice climbing in extreme directions.

Auxiliary criteria

  • Demanding orientation
  • Difficult protection
  • Unreliable rock
  • Canceling the tour problematic

See also

Web links