Umbellate horn
| Umbellate horn | ||
|---|---|---|
 Kandersteg with Kander and Doldenhorn (middle) and "Äusserem Fisistock" right from the northwest. |
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| height | 3638 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Canton of Bern , Switzerland | |
| Mountains | Bernese Alps | |
| Dominance | 3.58 km → Blüemlisalp | |
| Notch height | 654 m ↓ Fründenjoch | |
| Coordinates | 622 760 / 146 401 | |
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| First ascent | June 30, 1862 by J. Bischoff, K. Blatter, C. Lauener, G. Reichen, A. Roth and E. von Fellenberg | |
| Normal way | from the Doldenhornhütte (from the northwest) | |
 Map: Doldenhorn in the area of the municipality of Kandersteg |
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 Inner Fisistock and Doldenhorn (right) from the southwest |
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The Doldenhorn is a 3638 m high mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland .
geography
The showpiece of the Doldenhorn, the glaciated north face, rises steeply above the Oeschinensee near Kandersteg . The south side above the Gasterental has a rocky character. The Doldenhorn is connected to the Blüemlisalp in the east via the Fründenhorn and the Oeschinenhorn . To the west, the group surrounded by the Kander stands free and includes, in addition to the main Doldenhorn summit, further secondary peaks on the way to the valley floor; the Kleindoldenhorn , 400 meters to the west , 3475 m , then further west of the Üssere Fiststock , 2946 m , which towers over the Doldenhorn from the valley, and the Inner Fisistock , 2787 m , which forms the southwestern flank.
Due to the stratification to the north, several landslides occurred in the post-glacial period in the area of the Doldenhorn . One of them dammed the Oeschinensee. From the Fisistöcken above Kandersteg, huge masses of rock thundered down the Kandertal to Kandergrund , where the rubble around the picturesque Blausee can still be admired today. The scars on the mountain are still clearly visible.
Mountaineering
The Doldenhorn was first climbed on June 30, 1862 by Abraham Roth and Edmund von Fellenberg and the guides Johann Bischoff, Kaspar Blatter, Christian Lauener and Gilgian Reichen.
- The normal ascent begins at the Doldenhornhütte ( 1915 m ) above Kandersteg. From there you climb over the north-west side past the distinctive pointed stone (here also over the Doldenhorn glacier from the Fründenhütte ) until you enter the glacier at almost 3000 m altitude . The summit is reached via a glacier ramp that leads up from the saddle between Kleindoldenhorn and Doldenhorn.
- The Galletgrat , one of the most beautiful ice ridges in the Bernese Oberland , known among alpinists , leads from the Fründenhütte over the spur, which runs down from point 3480 m of the east ridge, first over rock up to the ridge height. From the spur, the east ridge stretches strongly to the south, weaving as a finely curved snow edge towards the summit. The difficulties in the rock reach grade III on the UIAA scale. However, in large parts of the rocky passages, fixed ropes and chains are almost continuously laid so that you no longer have to walk the previously used couloir, which was at risk of falling rocks. The route was first climbed on July 19, 1899 by J. Gallet, J. Kalbermatten and A. Müller .
- The east ridge can also be walked along its entire length from the Fründenjoch. However, the difficulties to reach the firn are significantly higher (V according to UIAA) than with the Galletgrat. The first climbers were E. and O. Bürki on August 5, 1923.
- The north wall is a classic ice wall with an upward inclination of an average of 54 °. The actual wall height is approx. 600 m. The north face of the Doldenhorn was first climbed by M. Bachmann and S. Plietz on July 8, 1934.
Government bunker K20
The westernmost pre-summit of the Doldenhorn, the Innere Fisistock, houses the government bunker of the Swiss government , the guidance system K20 . It is accessible from Eggenschwand, from the Gasterntal and from the old Lötschberg tunnel . The government had given up the previous strict secrecy regarding the location of the bunker.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Michael Soukup: Protection from nuclear war: Deep in the Swiss Bunkerberg. Spiegel online, August 26, 2008, accessed June 19, 2016 .
