Fixed rope
A fixed rope is fixed in the rock or ice anchored rope which, when climbing the fuse is used, and as an aid during ascent and descent. Normally, the alpinist is tied to the rope when mountaineering , so the rope moves with the climber. With the fixed rope, however, the climber moves along the rope.
Sometimes the wire ropes of via ferrata are also referred to as fixed ropes.
use
Fixed ropes are particularly useful when a route has to be overcome quickly, several times and by several people, since in such cases securing with a movable rope can be too cumbersome and time-consuming. Disadvantages of the fixed rope are the effort required to attach it beforehand and the higher material requirements.
Fixed ropes are therefore mainly used for high-altitude mountaineering in the expedition style . Here, large groups of people often have to tackle difficult terrain several times under problematic conditions and with a lot of luggage (setting up high camps , transporting materials) and the possibility of a quick descent can be vital. Fixed ropes are often used, especially on large, commercial expeditions. For example, in the Khumbu Icefall on Mount Everest by Sherpas secured in the spring of a route with fixed ropes and this route will be used throughout the year of expeditions. Many alpinists, however, reject this ascent style , the so-called alpine style calls for no fixed ropes.
Fixed ropes are rarely used outside of expedition mountaineering. They can be temporarily installed in higher rock faces when climbing big walls or when setting up new tours, so that you can quickly ascend to a certain point again. Another area of application is alpine mountain technology . Fixed ropes are also used for difficult work in alpine terrain (e.g. setting up paths and via ferrata ). In sport climbing , they are sometimes used to develop new climbing routes. In some climbing gardens , the approaches to difficult to reach entrances are provided with fixed ropes.
Inspection technology
Static ropes with a diameter of 8 to 10 mm should be used for fixed ropes . Depending on the characteristics of the terrain (e.g. steepness), the tension of the rope and the number of fixed points to which the rope is attached can vary. The technique of locomotion on the rope is also adapted to the circumstances: safety carabiners (similar to a via ferrata), ascenders or Prusik knots can be used. When descending, the figure eight can also be used on steep terrain or the “Sherpa technique” (wrapping an arm with the fixed rope) in flatter terrain.
literature
Thomas Lämmle: High altitude mountaineering: technique - tactics - training . University thesis, Innsbruck 2000.
See also
Web link
- SAC information sheet on rope technology (PDF file)