Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme

Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA)
sport	Alpinism
Founded	August 27, 1932
Place of foundation	Chamonix , ( France )
president	Frits Vrijlandt
societies	90 associations
Members	3.05 million (as of 2019)
Association headquarters	Bern , ( Switzerland )
Homepage	theuiaa.org

The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme ( UIAA, English International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation ; German for "International Union of Mountaineering Associations ") is an international association of various mountaineering associations . The UIAA has set itself the task, among other things, of defining strict safety standards for mountain sports equipment such as ropes , climbing harnesses , snap hooks and other pieces of equipment. The UIAA also supports young mountaineers , for example through joint trips abroad, is committed to nature conservation and until 2005 was the organizer of the sport climbing world cups and world championships .

history

The UIAA was founded on August 27, 1932 in Chamonix (France) by 18 representatives of national alpine clubs. The Swiss Charles Egmond d'Arcis was elected as the first chairman . In 1950 the UIAA represented half a million alpinists, a number that grew to over two and a half million in the following decades.

In 2008, the German Alpine Association (DAV), the Austrian Alpine Association (ÖAV) and the Association of Austrian Alpine Clubs (VAVÖ) left the UIAA. As a result, the UIAA lost half of the alpinists it represented. The reason for this was that the three clubs began to establish sport climbing as an Olympic sport and therefore needed recognition as sports associations . The UIAA refused to become a sports association itself, while the IOC refused to recognize the UIAA or the individual Alpine clubs in their previous organizational form.

In 2013, the conflicts between UIAA and IOC were resolved. Since then, DAV, ÖAV and VAVÖ have been members of the UIAA again.

The UIAA is based in Bern (Switzerland). In 2018 the UIAA and the EUMA agreed to work together .

As an umbrella organization with responsibility for the respective continent, the UIAA recognizes:

continent	Umbrella organization	Abbreviation
Asia	Union of Asian Alpine Associations	UAAA
Europe	European Union of Mountaineering Associations	EUMA
Latin America	Pan-American Union of Mountaineering and Climbing	UPAME

UIAA scale

→ Main article : UIAA scale

A difficulty scale, the UIAA scale, was named after the organization. It enables the comparison of different climbing routes in the rock based on their difficulty. The UIAA scale is given in Roman or Arabic numerals. It starts with 1, the difficulty increasing with the degree. The scale is open at the top. In addition, fine gradations with plus or minus signs (for example 7− for an easy route in the 7th degree or 5+ for a difficult 5) are common.

UIAA standards

Example of the UIAA marking in kg and kilo newtons

The UIAA has developed standards for various items of equipment. These standards are intended to ensure that the equipment can fulfill its task according to the requirements and withstand the loads that occur.

The responsible committee of the UIAA works together with the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) in the harmonization of standards.

The UIAA standards are closely based on the standards of the EU (CE or EN or CEN), but sometimes deviate slightly from them.

The following standards were created by the UIAA:

No. Tools 101 Dynamic climbing ropes 102 Accessory cords 103 Tape material 104 Ribbon slings 105 Climbing harnesses 106 Climbing helmets

No. Tools 107 Static ropes 108 Stand slings 121 Snap hook 122 Rock hook 123 Bolts 124 Clamping wedges

No. Tools 125 Clamping devices 126 Ascenders 127 Pulleys 128 Via ferrata sets 129 Belay devices 151 Ice screws

No. Tools 152 Ice tools / ice ax 153 crampon 154 Firn anchor 155 Snow picket 156 Avalanche shovel 157 Boulder mats / crash pad

UIAA summit definition

For the definition of the four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps, a commission has determined which surveys are to be considered peaks.

There is no comparable stipulation for elevations below 4000 meters.

UIAA organizations

Period	organization	Abbreviation
1991 to 1999	Comité International du Ski-Alpinisme de Compétition	CISAC
1999 to 2008	International Council for Ski Mountaineering Competitions	ISCM
Since 2008.000	International Ski Mountaineering Federation	ISFM
1997 to 2007	International Council for Competition Climbing	ICC
Since 2007.000	International Federation of Sport Climbing	IFSC

UIAA President

UIAA General Assembly in Geneva 1936: 1. Kalbermatten SAC, 2. D'Arcis Pres. UIAA, 3. Dosio CAI, 4. Siogren Sweden, 5. Lory CAF, 6-8 Goetel, Klemensiewicz, Szatkowski Poland

A chronological overview of all presidents since foundation.

Term of office	nationality	president
1932-1964	Switzerland	Charles Egmond d'Arcis
1964-1968	Switzerland	Edouard Wyss-Dunant
1968-1972	Switzerland	Albert Eggler
1972-1976	Switzerland	Jean Juge
1976-1984	Switzerland	Pierre Bossus
1984-1990	Switzerland	Carlo Sganzini
1990-1995	Switzerland	Pietro Segantini
1995-2004	England	Ian McNaught-Davis
2004-2005	England	Alan Blackshaw
2005-2011	Canada	Mike Mortimer
since 2012	Netherlands	Frits Vrijlandt

UIAA honorary members

Medal UIAA honorary member

An overview of all honorary members.

since	nationality	Honorary member	Association
1964	Switzerland	Charles Egmond d'Arcis	SAC
1968	Switzerland	Edouard Wyss-Dunant	SAC
1969	Germany	Hans von Bomhard	DAV
1975	Italy	Ugo di Vallepiana	CAI
1980	Italy	Guido Tonella	CAI
1983	Austria	Franz Hiess	VAVÖ
1987	United States	Fritz Wiessner	AAC
1990	Czech Republic	Jaromír Wolf	CHS
1992	New Zealand	Sir Edmund Hillary	NZAC
1995	Italy	Walter Bonatti	CAI
1995	Switzerland	Pietro Segantini	SAC
2000	Netherlands	Robbert Leopold	NKBV
2001	Switzerland	Carlo Sganzini	SAC
2002	Greece	Georges Moissidis	EOOA
2002	United States	William Lowell Putnam	AAC
2003	Germany	Fritz March	DAV
2003	Greece	Nassos Tzartzanos	EOOA
2007	Spain	Jordi Pons Sanjines	FEDME
2008	Germany	Pit Schubert	DAV
2010	Japan	Kazuo Saito	JMA
2012	Nepal	Ang Tshering	NMA
2013	France	Claude Eckhardt	FFCAM
2014	Japan	Tamotsu Nakamura	JAC
2016	Italy	Reinhold Messner	AVS
2019	South Korea	Injeong Lee	KAF

UIAA member organizations

In 2019, the UIAA represented around 90 member organizations in 67 countries on six continents.

• 55 - Europe
• 21 - Asia
• 05 - North America
• 05 - South America
• 02 - Africa
• 01 - Oceania

country	continent	president	status	Member organization	since	Members
Afghanistan	Asia	Nisar Ahmad Jabar Khil	Full member	Afghanistan Climbing & Mountaineering Federation	2017	300
Albania	Europe	Jani Ziso	Full member	Albanian Mountaineering Federation	2017	430
Argentina	South America	Mariano Rodriguez Giesso	Full member	Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA)	1951	412
Azerbaijan	Europe	Firdhovsi Aliyev	Full member	Air And Extreme Federation Of Azerbaijan	2011	5,383
Bangladesh	Asia	Mr. AR Khan	Full member	Bangladesh Mountaineering Federation	2013	29
Belgium	Europe	Paul Verzele	Full member	Climbing and Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL)	1932	16,695
Bosnia and Herzegovina	Europe	Ermin Lipovic	Full member	Mountaineering Union Of Bosnia - Herzegovina	1977	4,000
Brazil	South America	Kika Bradford	Full member	Confederação Brasileira De Montanhismo E Escalada (CBME)	2005	1,816
Bulgaria	Europe	Petko Totev	Full member	Bulgarian Climbing And Mountaineering Federation	1935	270
Chile	South America	Willy Montenegro Garcia	Full member	National Sports Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing of Chile (FEACH)	1955	490
People's Republic of China	Asia	Zhixin Li	Full member	Chinese Mountaineering Association	1985	13,500
Costa Rica	South America	Edgar Usaga Arguedas	observer	Costa Rican Federation Of Mountain Sports (FECODEM)	2019	260
Denmark	Europe	Morten Damkjær Nielsen	Full member	Dansk Bjergklub - Danish Alpine Club	1977	1,624
Denmark	Europe	Christian Nicolai Ørum-Petersen	Associated	Danish Climbing Federation	1998	7,867
Germany	Europe	Josef Klenner	Full member	German Alpine Club (DAV)	1932	1,289,641
England	Europe	Nicholas Kurth	Full member	British Mountaineering Council (BMC)	1932	58,674
England	Europe	John Porter	Associated	Alpine Club (AC)	2003	1,499
Finland	Europe	Jari Koski	Full member	Finnish Climbing Association	1994	3,940
France	Europe	Nicolas Raynaud	Full member	Club Alpin Français (CAF)	1932	87,127
France	Europe	Ian Spare	observer	Union of International Mountain Leader Associations (UIMLA)	2019	4,000
Georgia	Europe	Zura Kutchava	Full member	Mountaineering And Climbing Association Of Georgia	1993	165
Greece	Europe	Dimitrios Georgoulis	Full member	Hellenic Federation Of Mountaineering And Climbing (EOOA)	1936	6,500
Guatemala	South America	Meder Stuardo Valdez Fuentes	Full member	Federación Nacional De Andinismo De Guatemala	2017	325
Hong Kong	Asia	Mr. YU Ka-chi, Frederick	Full member	China Hong Kong Mountaineering And Climbing Union	1988	5,002
India	Asia	Colonel HS Chauhan	Full member	Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)	1981	4,001
India	Asia	Col Ajay Kothiyal, KC, SC, VSM	Associated	Nehru Institute Of Mountaineering	2011	129
Indonesia	Asia	Mr. Dhohir Farisi	Full member	Indonesia Sport Climbing And Mountaineering Federation	2016	3,500
Iran	Asia	Reza Zarei	Full member	IR Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (IMSCF)	1972	22,000
Ireland	Europe	Paul Kellagher	Full member	Mountaineering Ireland (MCI)	2004	13,180
Israel	Asia	Gili Tene	Full member	Israel Climbers' Club (Former Israeli Alpine Club)	2009	250
Italy	Europe	Georg Simeoni	Associated	Alpine Association South Tyrol (AVS)	1974	67,788
Italy	Europe	Marino Giacometti	Unit member	International Skyrunning Federation (ISF)	2016
Japan	Asia	Hitoshi Onodera	Full member	Japan Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Association (JAC)	1967	39,000
Jordan	Asia	Dr. Abdelrazzaq Arabiat	observer	Jordan Tourism	2013
Canada	North America	Neil Bosch	Full member	Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)	1947	14,366
Canada	North America	Ronald Whitehead	Associated	Ecole Nationale d'Escalade du Québec	-	117
Canada	North America	Vincent Causse	Associated	Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME)	1975	2,745
Kazakhstan	Asia	Valiyev Kazbek	Full member	Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation Of The Republic Of Kazakhstan	2017	330
Kosovo	Europe	Arben Lila	Full member	Kosovo Mountaineering And Alpinist Federation	2011	1,265
Croatia	Europe	Darko Berljak	Full member	Hrvatski Planinarski Savez - Croatian Mountaineering Association (HPS)	1991	13,704
Liechtenstein	Europe	Caroline Egger	Full member	Liechtenstein Alpine Association (LAV)	1959	2,865
Lithuania	Europe	Kestuti's scruples	Full member	Lithuanian Mountaineering Association	1991	131
Luxembourg	Europe	Ms. Yoo Yes LUDWIG	Full member	FLERA u. a. with the GAL	1938	517
Malaysia	Asia	Dato 'Haji Khalid Bin Yunus	observer	National Adventure Association Of Malaysia	2015	47
Malta	Europe	Simon Alden	Full member	Malta Climbing Club	2018	127
Morocco	Africa	M. Hicham Ait Ouarchikh	Full member	Federation Royale Marocaine de Ski et Montagnes (FRMSSM)	2017	2,000
Monaco	Europe	Pierre Ferry	Full member	Club Alpin Monégasque (CAM)	1994	344
Mongolia	Asia	Tulga Buya	Full member	Mongolian National Climbing Federation	2010	220
Nepal	Asia	Santa Bir Lama	Full member	Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)	1975	1,332
New Zealand	Oceania	John Palmer	Full member founding member	New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC)	1932	4.010
Netherlands	Europe	Joachim Driessen	Full member	Royal Dutch Mountaineering And Climbing Club (NKBV)	1932	64.174
North Macedonia	Europe	Prof. Dr. Jovica Ugrinovski	Full member	Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia	1999	254
Norway	Europe	Hilde Aass	Full member	Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK)	1965	730
Norway	Europe	Stone Tronstad	Associated	The Norwegian Climbing Federation (NKF)	1993	23,038
Austria	Europe	Mag. Miriam Aigner-Köthe	Full member	VAVÖ u. a. with ÖAV and ÖTK	1951	760.816
Pakistan	Asia	Mr.Abu Zafar Sadiq	Full member	Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP)	1979	133
Poland	Europe	Piotr Pustelnik	Full member	Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA)	1932	6.117
Portugal	Europe	Jorge Gabriel Jesus Oliveira	Full member	Clube Nacional De Montanhismo	1955	80
Portugal	Europe	Joao Luis Queiroz	Associated	Federacao De Campismo E Montanhismo De Portugal (FCMP)	1992	692
Portugal	Europe	Carlos Manuel Moreira Gomes	Associated	Federação Portuguesa De Montanhismo E Escalada (FPME)	2004	654
Portugal	Europe	Luisa Pinto Ferreira	observer	Clube de Actividades de Ar Livre	2011	561
Romania	Europe	Alexandru Ioan Paun	Full member	Clubul Alpin Român (CAR)	1934	287
Russia	Europe	Andrei Volkov	Full member	Russian Mountaineering Federation	2007	2,200
Sweden	Europe	Truls Neubeck	Full member	Swedish Climbing Federation (SKF)	1973	11,400
Switzerland	Europe	Françoise Jaquet	Full member	Swiss Alpine Club (SAC)	1932	152.282
Switzerland	Europe	Gregor Dürrenberger	Associated	Association of Academic Alpine Clubs in Switzerland	1985	155
Switzerland	Europe	Gregor Dürrenberger	observer	International Federation Of Mountain Guides Associations (IVBV / IFMGA / UIAGM)	1987	6,000
Switzerland	Europe	Thomas Buckingham	observer	International Slackline Association (ISA)	2019	1,500
Serbia	Europe	Boris M. Mićić	Full member	Mountaineering Association Of Serbia - Planinarski Savez Srbije (PSS)	2002	1,183
Slovakia	Europe	Igor Koller	Full member	Slovak Mountaineering Union James - Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok James (JAMES)	1932	4,833
Slovenia	Europe	Jože Rova	Full member	Alpine Association Of Slovenia (PZS)	1991	58,431
Spain	Europe	Joan Garrigos i Toro	Full member	Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME)	1932	116.267
Spain	Europe	Dr. Eduard Cayon i Costa	Associated	Center Excursionista De Catalunya	1932	4,000
Spain	Europe	Jose Ramon Alonso Rodrigo	Associated	Euskal Mendizale Federazioa - Basque Mountaineering Federation	2002	33,653
Spain	Europe	Jordi Merino i Urbano	Associated	Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC)	2000	41,303
Sri Lanka	Asia	Pradip Elmo Francis	observer	National Mountaineering & Climbing Association Sri Lanka	2015	1
South Africa	Africa	Greg Moseley	Full member	Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA)	1992	4,871
South Korea	Asia	Chang Sungpil	Full member	Corean Alpine Club	1969	920
South Korea	Asia	Kim Jong Gil	Associated	Korean Alpine Federation	1970	1,000
Taiwan	Asia	Pan-Nan Huang	Full member	Chinese Taipei Alpine Association	1989	1,852
Taiwan	Asia	Hwang I-Yuan	Associated	Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association	1993	385
Czech Republic	Europe	Jan Bloudek	Full member	Czech Mountaineering Federation - Cesky Horolezecky Svaz (CHS)	1932	15,157
Czech Republic	Europe	Michal Lollok	observer	Czech Mountain Leader Association - Český Spolek Horských Průvodců	2010	87
Turkey	Europe	Ersan BAŞAR	Full member	Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu (TDF)	1967	6,780
Ukraine	Europe	Valentyn K. Symonenko	Full member	Ukrainian Mountaineering And Climbing Federation	1991	621
Hungary	Europe	Ildiko Kandracs	Full member	Magyar Hegy- És Sportmászó Szövetség - Hungarian Mountaineering And Sport Climbing Federation (Mhssz)	1932	1,125
United States	North America	Phi Powers	Full member founding member	American Alpine Club (AAC)	1932	23,330
United States	North America	Terrance L. Gacke	Associated	Alaskan Alpine Club	1985	69
Cyprus	Europe	Pavlos Georgiades	Full member	Mountaineering And Climbing Federation Of Cyprus (KOMOAAP)	2007	340

Former UIAA affiliates

country	continent	organization	Period
France	Europe	FFME	-
Italy	Europe	CAI	1932-2019
Austria	Europe	ASKIMO	-

Web links

Commons : UIAA  - collection of images, videos and audio files

• Official website of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA)

Individual evidence

1. ^ The German and Austrians Leave UIAA czechclimbing.com (March 13, 2008).
2. ↑ Back to the community . DAV again UIAA member. In: German Alpine Association (Ed.): DAV Panorama . tape 65 , no. 6 , 2013, ISSN  1437-5923 , p. 7 .
3. ↑ theuiaa.org: EUMA and the UIAA start collaboration
4. ↑ theuiaa.org: Continental Organizations (English)
5. ↑ Safety Standards - UIAA. Retrieved September 29, 2019 (American English). 
6. ^ UIAA Documentation and Information Commission: The Four Thousand Mountains in the Alps - Official UIAA directory . In: UIAA bulletin . No. 145 , March 1994, p. 9 f . ( hikr.org [PDF; 630 kB ; accessed on May 15, 2008]).
7. ↑ theuiaa.org: About Us (English)
8. ↑ theuiaa.org: Honorary Members (Status: 2019; English)
9. ↑ theuiaa.org: Directory of UIAA member organizations (English)