Via ferrata set

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Modern via ferrata set with gathered (elastic) snap hooks

A via ferrata set is a device used to secure mountaineers on via ferrata against falling . As a connection between the climbing harness and the steel cable attached to the rock , it is designed to dynamically brake the climber in the event of a fall and thus avoid a hard fall.

need

Via ferratas are usually insured with the help of a continuous wire rope anchored to the rock at different distances. If a climber is attached to this rope with a climbing harness and a carabiner and falls, he falls along the wire rope to the next anchorage. The fall energy must be absorbed by the connection between the climbing harness and the carabiner. If this connection consisted of only one piece of rope (or a sling ), the shortness of the energy-absorbing rope and the fall height of usually several meters would result in an extremely high fall factor (5 and more, compared to a maximum of 2, but mostly far below that, when sport climbing with rope protection). The resulting high impact force of 40 kN and more would lead to material failure and falls. Even in the case of non-breaking material, the body would have to absorb almost all of the fall energy, which would lead to serious injuries such as broken bones, internal injuries, circulatory damage and even cardiac arrest . For this reason, instead of a rope, there must be a connection between the climbing harness and the steel rope, which limits the impact force to a maximum of 6 kN in the event of a fall.

Technical designs

The essential construction elements of a via ferrata set are a connection to the climbing harness, a device for absorbing the fall energy ( shock absorber ), at least two rope or sling branches and at the end of each branch a carabiner or other device as a connection to the wire rope.

The variety of specific designs is greater than that of all other mountaineering articles, especially in recent years numerous new and different designs have been developed.

The international mountaineering association UIAA stipulates which constructions are permissible and which requirements via ferrata sets must meet in standard 128 and in EN 958. UIAA standard 121 and EN 12275 also apply to via ferrata carabiners.

Y shape or V shape

Knotted via ferrata sets, left in V-shape (outdated), right in Y-shape

There are basically two variants of via ferrata sets, the Y-shaped sets or the now obsolete V-shape . The Y-shape is currently (2018) state of the art and is recommended by the UIAA , while the V-shape should no longer be used due to safety deficiencies.

A V-shaped via ferrata set consists of a single piece of rope with an impact shock absorber, which is tied into the harness directly in front of the body using a strap so that the two rope ends create a V-shape. On the via ferrata, however, only one carabiner may be hooked into the wire rope so that the shock absorber can unfold its effect and dynamically cushion a fall. If both carabiners with rope ends of the same length are hooked into the steel rope, the rope brake can no longer cushion the impact force in the event of a fall and the via ferrata safety device acts like a static safety device (apart from the very low elongation of the rope) . When climbing over an intermediate safety device (fastening the wire rope), the free end of the rope is hooked in first and then the previous safety device is detached and fastened in the material loop of the climbing harness.

In contrast to this, sets in Y-shape consist of a piece of rope with an impact shock absorber, which branches into two branches only after this. The two branches of this fork are usually made of sewn sling material or pieces of rope, at the ends of which the via ferrata carabiners are attached. With the Y-shape, both carabiners are always hooked into the wire rope, which offers higher safety reserves ( redundancy ) in the event of a fall .

Shock absorber (also via ferrata brake)

Energy absorber

Shock absorbers (also called "via ferrata brakes ") consist in their earliest form, but still used today, of a perforated plate or a clamping element ( friction shock absorber ), which dynamically brakes the passage of the rope through friction and thus avoids a hard fall. They allow the length of the branches to be individually adjusted. Since studies showed that the aging effects of such models had been underestimated for a long time, various major manufacturers launched a recall campaign in February 2013 and initiated a tightening of the standards.

Newer models, on the other hand, often work with strap energy absorbers , which are made of woven or sewn strap material. This tears in the event of a fall and thus extends the braking distance. Especially when wet (which is relatively common on popular canyon via ferratas where you climb close to the water), energy absorbers should be preferred to energy absorbers. They are also less prone to operating errors.

The via ferrata set must be replaced after a fall in which the braking device has triggered.

Carabiner types

Since the carabiners used in via ferrata sets for hanging on the wire rope often have to be opened and closed, they should on the one hand be easy and quick to operate and on the other hand have a protective mechanism against unintentional opening (automatic locking device) for safety reasons. In addition, via ferrata carabiners, which can be exposed to an unfavorable load on the wire rope anchorages in the event of a fall, must have a high level of flexural strength. Three types of carabiners are currently used in via ferrata sets: simple carabiners (termed Wirelock), carabiners with a palm safety catch (called ATTAC at Salewa, EASHOOK at Petzl) and carabiners with internal thumb safety (JetLock).

In addition, there are modern via ferrata sets that have a clamping element ( Skyturn ) on a branch instead of a carabiner . This is a fastening mechanism that runs along with the wire rope, but blocks in the event of a fall and thus brakes the fall before the next wire rope anchoring. However, this system can only be used with certain wire rope diameters.

Carabiner connections

The carabiners at the end of the branches can be sewn into the rope or the sling or tied in with a knot, whereby the sewing is considered the safer and more modern system.

Some sets have a rotating device (between Seilast and carbines gyro ) installed, which in strong kinks facilitates hooking a Karabinerasts because the floating carabiner can be rotated without turning out the entire cable in the correct position. However, this system does not help against the frequent twisting of both strands together.

Roping device

Via ferrata sets with sewn sling material, left connection with anchor stitch, right connection with steel carabiner

Older via ferrata sets in particular are designed to be attached to the climbing harness with a carabiner. However, since this can lead to dangerous transverse loads on this carabiner, this is no longer recommended today. Modern via ferrata sets have a rope loop that is tied into the climbing harness with an anchor hitch .

Carabiner arms

Via ferrata set in Y-design with rigid arms and friction shock absorber

The branches are often made of ordinary rope or tubular tape material. In order to facilitate the handling of the long rope branches, via ferrata sets have also been developed in which these branches are provided with elastic components. These can be located inside the belt loop or woven into the supporting material of the branches. After a fatal accident on a via ferrata near Walchsee in Tyrol, via ferrata sets with woven-in elastic fibers were recalled in 2012 . An investigation showed that frequent stretching of the branches leads to a weakening of the supporting band material. The alpine clubs therefore recommend that via ferrata sets with elastic snap hooks, which are listed as questionable, are no longer used.

Locking loops

Many modern via ferrata sets have, in addition to the two branches used to secure against falls, a third loop that does not run through an impact shock absorber. This is used to hang in the wire rope or another securing element if necessary and to be able to rest without burdening the shock absorber.

Operation and risks

Despite the strict technical standards for via ferrata sets, there are some restrictions on their safety. Most accidents can be traced back to incorrect operation or equipment that does not conform to standards. Frequent sources of error include errors when roping up (e.g. due to missing partner checks ), when relocating to the anchorages or incorrect handling of slings that are currently not attached.

An exception is the functional restriction of many via ferrata sets when it is wet. Furthermore, conventional via ferrata sets are not suitable for people weighing less than 50 kg, as the via ferrata brake hardly responds or not at all to the load and the resulting impact force can lead to serious injuries. This problem is exacerbated the more easily the person concerned is, which is why z. B. Children on via ferratas should be additionally secured at critical (e.g. particularly steep) points. The EN958: 2017 standard, which was updated in May 2017 (see the following section), therefore also provides for a function test in wet conditions for the first time.

In principle, via ferrata sets (as opposed to safety ropes in sport climbing) are purely emergency systems that are used exclusively for survival. Over 90% of the falls in which the shock absorber of a via ferrata set is stressed result in serious injuries.

Via ferrata sets for children and light people - New EN958: 2017

More and more children are going via ferratas. Because of this, and also because of the tendency towards heavier, steeper via ferrata up to the vertical, DAV safety research started a discussion on children's via ferrata sets in 2011. The tests that followed showed that falls in via ferrata sets of the then standard can be life-threatening or even fatal for light people. A reform of the underlying EN958: 2017 in May 2017 led to the construction of via ferrata sets for people up to 40 kg body weight. Furthermore, a function test in a wet state was included in the standard for the first time. Several manufacturers already sell sets with either adjustable damping strength or with a progressive energy absorber.

The current opinion of the PES and DAV security research in short form:

  • Falls on via ferrata are still to be rated as significantly heavier and more injurious than z. B. in sport climbing routes. It is therefore not recommended to go via ferratas at the limit, especially with children.
  • Via ferrata sets with the currently valid standard EN958: 2017 are only suitable for people weighing 40 kg or more (provided they are labeled with the standard and the minimum weight).
  • There is still no valid standard for people under 40 kg. Use is therefore at your own risk and requires expert supervision and additional security, especially for children
  • Via ferrata sets of the previous standard can still be used and may still be sold, but under the following conditions: a) The set is not affected by one of the numerous recalls, b) The weight is in the range between 50 and 90 kg (or 120 kg, see manufacturer information), c) The set is in good condition.
  • The exclusion of via ferrata sets according to even older standards, e.g. B. V-sets or with rope brakes.

Via ferrata sets in the high ropes course

In addition to being used on via ferratas, via ferrata sets are also used for participant self-belay in the high ropes course . If only horizontal exercises are performed in high ropes courses, the brake on the via ferrata set is not necessary. If the safety ropes run well above the attachment of the via ferrata set to the participant's climbing harness , smaller impacts occur in the event of a fall, which is why the dynamic fall absorption may be lower than with equipment for via ferrata. A via ferrata for high ropes courses has often still a third branch, attached to which a pulley to zip lines ( zip lines and flying fox to use).

literature

  • Pit Schubert : Via ferrata , Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0 .
  • Axel Jentzsch-Rabl, Andreas Jentzsch: Alpine textbook with educational film as download, for route planning, equipment, technology and safety , 2nd edition, Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2013, ISBN 978-3-902656-13-1 .

Web links

Commons : Via ferrata set  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikibooks: Climbing: Via ferrata set  - learning and teaching materials

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Walter Fimml, Michael Larcher: Energy is power times way. Safety theory part 1 . In: German Alpine Association , Austrian Alpine Association , Alpine Association South Tyrol , Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No. 3 . Innsbruck 2000, p. 15–18 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed September 1, 2012]).
  2. ↑ Walter Würtl, Reinhard Ranner: iron paths (2). Risk Factors and Risk Management . In: German Alpine Association, Austrian Alpine Association, Alpine Association South Tyrol, Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No. 3 . Innsbruck 2007, p. 50–56 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed September 1, 2012]).
  3. ↑ a b c d e f g h Walter Würtl, Peter Plattner: Via ferrata. A recommendation . In: German Alpine Association, Austrian Alpine Association, Alpine Association South Tyrol, Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No. 2 . Innsbruck 2011, p. 44–51 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed September 1, 2012]).
  4. ↑ UIAA 128 'ENERGY ABSORBING SYSTEMS' For use on Vie Ferrate (via ferrata) (PDF; 131 kB), accessed on May 16, 2014.
  5. ↑ UIAA 121 'CONNECTORS / KARABINERS' (PDF; 570 kB), accessed on May 16, 2014.
  6. ^ A b c d Pit Schubert : UIAA News . In: German Alpine Association, Austrian Alpine Association, Alpine Association South Tyrol, Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No.  3 . Innsbruck 2002, p. 49–51 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed on September 2, 2012]).
  7. ↑ Many via ferrata sets have significant deficiencies ( memento of the original from 23 August 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , alpenverein.de from February 25, 2013, accessed on March 7, 2013. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.alpenverein.de
  8. ↑ a b c d Chris Semmel: Risk via ferrata . In: German Alpine Association, Austrian Alpine Association, Alpine Association South Tyrol, Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No. 3 . Innsbruck 2007, p. 64–69 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed September 1, 2012]).
  9. ^ Pit Schubert: Via ferrata climbing. Alpine textbook Knowledge & Practice . Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0 , p. 17 ( books.google.at [accessed on September 2, 2012] preview).
  10. ↑ Peter Gebetsberger: Safe on the way on the via ferrata . In: Naturfreunde (Ed.): Naturfreund . No. 3 , 2010, p. 26–27 ( naturfreunde.at [PDF; accessed on September 2, 2012]).
  11. ↑ New via ferrata set: Skyrider from Skylotec , DAV Cologne, accessed on September 2, 2012.
  12. ^ Pit Schubert: Via ferrata climbing. Alpine textbook Knowledge & Practice . Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0 , p. 20 ( books.google.at [accessed on September 2, 2012] preview).
  13. ^ Pit Schubert: Via ferrata climbing. Alpine textbook Knowledge & Practice . Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0 , p. 22–23 ( books.google.at [accessed on September 2, 2012] preview).
  14. ↑ ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: numerous recalls of via ferrata sets - background and overview at the Austrian Alpine Association. )@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.alpenverein.at
  15. ↑ DAV website on the accident and the investigation , accessed August 31, 2012.
  16. ↑ Chris Semmel: Via ferrata sets and lightweights . In: German Alpine Association, Austrian Alpine Association, Alpine Association South Tyrol, Swiss Alpine Club (publisher): bergundstieg . No. 3 . Innsbruck 2010, p. 32–35 ( bergundstieg.at [PDF; accessed on September 2, 2012]).
  17. ↑ DAV: "Panorama" 4/2011
  18. ↑ a b DAV: "New standard for via ferrata sets" , accessed June 27, 2018
  19. ↑ See on the via ferrata with children? Three answers. Bergzeit, accessed on August 13, 2018 .