Jean Juge

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Jean Juge SAS
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Jean Juge (* 1908 in Geneva ; † August 8, 1978 on the Matterhorn ) was a Swiss physicist , alpinist and president of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) from 1972 to 1976.

Life and activities

Juge attended the Collège Calvin and then studied at the Faculty of Natural Sciences at the University of Geneva , where he received his doctorate. As a doctor of science, he taught physics and chemistry at the Collège Calvin for 40 years until 1972.

Juge began climbing at the age of 17, joined the Club des Grimpeurs de Genève in 1930 and was its president from 1947 to 1949. In the 1930s he belonged to the elite of Geneva mountaineers with Raymond Lambert , André Roch , René Dittert, Robert Gréloz, Loulou Boulaz etc. From 1933 he climbed the then classics of the Alps such as the south ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1938 with Lambert. As part of the Academic Alpine Club in Geneva , he organized climbing courses on the Salève. He wrote articles about alpine newspapers in the Journal de Genève .

From 1935 to 1938 he took part in numerous international ski competitions. He was a member of the SAS Geneva and central president of the Swiss Academic Ski Club (SAS) from 1936 to 1938. In 1944, together with Georges Lachenal and Maurice Stalder, he published the textbook: Pour devenir rapidement un font skieur: Le ski-rotation avencé - le slalom. Analysis - pédagogie - conseils pratiques .

He was a participant in numerous Swiss expeditions such as 1952 in Tassili, 1954 Cho Oyu , 1964 Hoggar. After the French-Swiss expedition to Gaurishankar in autumn 1954 had not found a route, they turned to Cho Oyu. Juge single-handedly reached the west summit ( 7450 m ), while Raymond Lambert and Claude Kogan had to turn back at 7700 m (world record for women) due to bad weather. The Swiss had allowed the small Austrian expedition under Herbert Tichy with Pasang Dawa Lama , which had already made an attempt, to go first on the first ascent.

Mostly together with Michel Vaucher he climbed the east face of the Grand Capucin in 1961 without a bivouac, in 1963 the north face of the great pinnacle , in 1965 the west face of the Petites Jorasses, in 1967 the Walter Bonattipfeiler on the Drus , in 1969 the walker pillar of the Grandes Jorasses , in 1971 the Vittorio-Ratti -Weg of the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey , 1975 the Eiger north face, 1976 the north face of the Picco Gugliermina and many other routes.

He was a member of the jury at the international mountain film festival in Trento and had worked in several mountain films and also shot such as 1975 in "Les Horizons gagné" by Gaston Rébuffat , where he traversed the Aiguilles de Chamonix.

Due to the strong increase in international mountaineering, a ten-person team under Jean Juge began in Geneva in 1967 to design a uniform system for classifying the levels of difficulty used in route descriptions , which had to be internationally accepted and easily understandable for climbers of all nations: the UIAA Climbing Classification System could be published in 1969.

From 1972 to 1976 Juge was UIAA President . He was open to new trends in alpinism, which he tried to combine with the harmonious development of tourism.

In 1974 Juge flew to the Pamir Mountains as UIAA President and Pierre Bossus as UIAA Managing Director to visit the international expedition's camp accompanied by Vitaly Michailowitsch Abalakow . This expedition made it possible to discover alpine regions that were previously unknown in the west.

At the age of 70 he climbed the north face of the Matterhorn, where the rope team and two mountain guides were surprised by a bad weather and had to get on their shoulders, where he died of exhaustion and cold.

Jean Juge was married and had two sons.

Publications and films

  • with Georges Lachenal and Maurice Stalder: Pour devenir rapidement un font skieur: Le ski-rotation avencé - le slalom. Analysis - pédagogie - conseils pratiques . Textbook, Ch.Grasset, Geneva 1944 (French)
  • with Georges Lachenal and Maurice Stalder: Rotation and presentation in downhill and slalom. The rotation and template style. The slalom, analysis - teaching method, practical advice. Ch.Grasset, Geneva 1945
  • The nouvelle technique du ski: le jeu de jambes: godille, wagging, slalom . Librairie Payot, Lausanne 1957.
  • Film "Les Horizons gagné" by Gaston Rébuffat with Jean Juge et al. 1975
  • Film "Le Cervin en direct". 100 years of the Matterhorn first ascent. By Walter Plüss , Schweizer Fernsehen 1965.
  • Film "En direct du Cervin". 100 years of the Matterhorn first ascent, with Ian McNaught-Davis , Jean Juge et al., Co-production BBC, French, Italian and Swiss television 1965.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Willy Blaser: Love story on Cho Oyu
  2. ^ Filmography Jean Juge
  3. ^ American Alpine Club: The UIAA Climbing Classification System. Publication Year: 1969
  4. ↑ 80 years of UIAA, review and outlook by Claude Eckhardt
  5. ^ Robert W. Craig: Storm and sorrow in the high Pamirs. Simon and Schuster, New York 1980
  6. ^ Gazette de Lausanne / Journal de Geneve of August 11, 1978: L'alpiniste Jean Juge meurt au Cervin
  7. ↑ "The Mountain Hare". 37th yearbook 2002-2007. Swiss Academic Ski Club, September 2010
  8. ↑ Gaston Rebuffat: "Les Horizons gagnés" (documentary)
  9. ^ RTS: du Cervin à l'écran
personal data
SURNAME Juge, Jean
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss physicist, alpinist, UIAA President
DATE OF BIRTH 1908
PLACE OF BIRTH Geneva
DATE OF DEATH August 8, 1978
Place of death Matterhorn