Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme

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Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA)
UIAA logo
sport Alpinism
Founded August 27, 1932
Place of foundation Chamonix , ( France )
president Frits Vrijlandt
societies 90 associations
Members 3.05 million (as of 2019)
Association headquarters Bern , ( Switzerland )
Homepage theuiaa.org

The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme ( UIAA, English International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation ; German for "International Union of Mountaineering Associations ") is an international association of various mountaineering associations . The UIAA has set itself the task, among other things, of defining strict safety standards for mountain sports equipment such as ropes , climbing harnesses , snap hooks and other pieces of equipment. The UIAA also supports young mountaineers , for example through joint trips abroad, is committed to nature conservation and until 2005 was the organizer of the sport climbing world cups and world championships .


The UIAA was founded on August 27, 1932 in Chamonix (France) by 18 representatives of national alpine clubs. The Swiss Charles Egmond d'Arcis was elected as the first chairman . In 1950 the UIAA represented half a million alpinists, a number that grew to over two and a half million in the following decades.

In 2008, the German Alpine Association (DAV), the Austrian Alpine Association (ÖAV) and the Association of Austrian Alpine Clubs (VAVÖ) left the UIAA. As a result, the UIAA lost half of the alpinists it represented. The reason for this was that the three clubs began to establish sport climbing as an Olympic sport and therefore needed recognition as sports associations . The UIAA refused to become a sports association itself, while the IOC refused to recognize the UIAA or the individual Alpine clubs in their previous organizational form.

In 2013, the conflicts between UIAA and IOC were resolved. Since then, DAV, ÖAV and VAVÖ have been members of the UIAA again.

The UIAA is based in Bern (Switzerland). In 2018 the UIAA and the EUMA agreed to work together .

As an umbrella organization with responsibility for the respective continent, the UIAA recognizes:

continent Umbrella organization Abbreviation
Asia Union of Asian Alpine Associations UAAA
Europe European Union of Mountaineering Associations EUMA
Latin America Pan-American Union of Mountaineering and Climbing UPAME

UIAA scale

A difficulty scale, the UIAA scale, was named after the organization. It enables the comparison of different climbing routes in the rock based on their difficulty. The UIAA scale is given in Roman or Arabic numerals. It starts with 1, the difficulty increasing with the degree. The scale is open at the top. In addition, fine gradations with plus or minus signs (for example 7− for an easy route in the 7th degree or 5+ for a difficult 5) are common.

UIAA standards

Example of the UIAA marking in kg and kilo newtons

The UIAA has developed standards for various items of equipment. These standards are intended to ensure that the equipment can fulfill its task according to the requirements and withstand the loads that occur.

The responsible committee of the UIAA works together with the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) in the harmonization of standards.

The UIAA standards are closely based on the standards of the EU (CE or EN or CEN), but sometimes deviate slightly from them.

The following standards were created by the UIAA:

No. Tools
101 Dynamic climbing ropes
102 Accessory cords
103 Tape material
104 Ribbon slings
105 Climbing harnesses
106 Climbing helmets
No. Tools
107 Static ropes
108 Stand slings
121 Snap hook
122 Rock hook
123 Bolts
124 Clamping wedges
No. Tools
125 Clamping devices
126 Ascenders
127 Pulleys
128 Via ferrata sets
129 Belay devices
151 Ice screws
No. Tools
152 Ice tools / ice ax
153 crampon
154 Firn anchor
155 Snow picket
156 Avalanche shovel
157 Boulder mats / crash pad

UIAA summit definition

For the definition of the four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps, a commission has determined which surveys are to be considered peaks.

There is no comparable stipulation for elevations below 4000 meters.

UIAA organizations

Period organization Abbreviation
1991 to 1999 Comité International du Ski-Alpinisme de Compétition CISAC
1999 to 2008 International Council for Ski Mountaineering Competitions ISCM
Since 2008.000 International Ski Mountaineering Federation ISFM
1997 to 2007 International Council for Competition Climbing ICC
Since 2007.000 International Federation of Sport Climbing IFSC

UIAA President

UIAA General Assembly in Geneva 1936: 1. Kalbermatten SAC, 2. D'Arcis Pres. UIAA, 3. Dosio CAI, 4. Siogren Sweden, 5. Lory CAF, 6-8 Goetel, Klemensiewicz, Szatkowski Poland

A chronological overview of all presidents since foundation.

Term of office nationality president
1932-1964 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Charles Egmond d'Arcis
1964-1968 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Edouard Wyss-Dunant
1968-1972 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Albert Eggler
1972-1976 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Jean Juge
1976-1984 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Pierre Bossus
1984-1990 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Carlo Sganzini
1990-1995 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Pietro Segantini
1995-2004 EnglandEngland England Ian McNaught-Davis
2004-2005 EnglandEngland England Alan Blackshaw
2005-2011 CanadaCanada Canada Mike Mortimer
since 2012 NetherlandsNetherlands Netherlands Frits Vrijlandt

UIAA honorary members

Medal UIAA honorary member

An overview of all honorary members.

since nationality Honorary member Association
1964 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Charles Egmond d'Arcis SAC
1968 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Edouard Wyss-Dunant SAC
1969 GermanyGermany Germany Hans von Bomhard DAV
1975 ItalyItaly Italy Ugo di Vallepiana CAI
1980 ItalyItaly Italy Guido Tonella CAI
1983 AustriaAustria Austria Franz Hiess VAVÖ
1987 United StatesUnited States United States Fritz Wiessner AAC
1990 Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic Jaromír Wolf CHS
1992 New ZealandNew Zealand New Zealand Sir Edmund Hillary NZAC
1995 ItalyItaly Italy Walter Bonatti CAI
1995 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Pietro Segantini SAC
2000 NetherlandsNetherlands Netherlands Robbert Leopold NKBV
2001 SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Carlo Sganzini SAC
2002 GreeceGreece Greece Georges Moissidis EOOA
2002 United StatesUnited States United States William Lowell Putnam AAC
2003 GermanyGermany Germany Fritz March DAV
2003 GreeceGreece Greece Nassos Tzartzanos EOOA
2007 SpainSpain Spain Jordi Pons Sanjines FEDME
2008 GermanyGermany Germany Pit Schubert DAV
2010 JapanJapan Japan Kazuo Saito JMA
2012 NepalNepal Nepal Ang Tshering NMA
2013 FranceFrance France Claude Eckhardt FFCAM
2014 JapanJapan Japan Tamotsu Nakamura JAC
2016 ItalyItaly Italy Reinhold Messner AVS
2019 Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea Injeong Lee KAF

UIAA member organizations

In 2019, the UIAA represented around 90 member organizations in 67 countries on six continents.

country continent president status Member organization since Members
AfghanistanAfghanistan Afghanistan Asia Nisar Ahmad Jabar Khil Full member Afghanistan Climbing & Mountaineering Federation 2017 000000000000300.0000000000300
AlbaniaAlbania Albania Europe Jani Ziso Full member Albanian Mountaineering Federation 2017 000000000000430.0000000000430
ArgentinaArgentina Argentina South America Mariano Rodriguez Giesso Full member Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) 1951 000000000000412.0000000000412
AzerbaijanAzerbaijan Azerbaijan Europe Firdhovsi Aliyev Full member Air And Extreme Federation Of Azerbaijan 2011 000000000005383.00000000005,383
BangladeshBangladesh Bangladesh Asia Mr. AR Khan Full member Bangladesh Mountaineering Federation 2013 000000000000029.000000000029
BelgiumBelgium Belgium Europe Paul Verzele Full member Climbing and Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL) 1932 000000000016695.000000000016,695
Bosnia and HerzegovinaBosnia and Herzegovina Bosnia and Herzegovina Europe Ermin Lipovic Full member Mountaineering Union Of Bosnia - Herzegovina 1977 000000000004000.00000000004,000
BrazilBrazil Brazil South America Kika Bradford Full member Confederação Brasileira De Montanhismo E Escalada (CBME) 2005 000000000001816.00000000001,816
BulgariaBulgaria Bulgaria Europe Petko Totev Full member Bulgarian Climbing And Mountaineering Federation 1935 000000000000270.0000000000270
ChileChile Chile South America Willy Montenegro Garcia Full member National Sports Federation of Mountain Sports and Climbing of Chile (FEACH) 1955 000000000000490.0000000000490
China People's RepublicPeople's Republic of China People's Republic of China Asia Zhixin Li Full member Chinese Mountaineering Association 1985 000000000013500.000000000013,500
Costa RicaCosta Rica Costa Rica South America Edgar Usaga Arguedas observer Costa Rican Federation Of Mountain Sports (FECODEM) 2019 000000000000260.0000000000260
DenmarkDenmark Denmark Europe Morten Damkjær Nielsen Full member Dansk Bjergklub - Danish Alpine Club 1977 000000000001624.00000000001,624
DenmarkDenmark Denmark Europe Christian Nicolai Ørum-Petersen Associated Danish Climbing Federation 1998 000000000007867.00000000007,867
GermanyGermany Germany Europe Josef Klenner Full member German Alpine Club (DAV) 1932 000000001289641.00000000001,289,641
EnglandEngland England Europe Nicholas Kurth Full member British Mountaineering Council (BMC) 1932 000000000058674.000000000058,674
EnglandEngland England Europe John Porter Associated Alpine Club (AC) 2003 000000000001499.00000000001,499
FinlandFinland Finland Europe Jari Koski Full member Finnish Climbing Association 1994 000000000003940.00000000003,940
FranceFrance France Europe Nicolas Raynaud Full member Club Alpin Français (CAF) 1932 000000000087127.000000000087,127
FranceFrance France Europe Ian Spare observer Union of International Mountain Leader Associations (UIMLA) 2019 000000000004000.00000000004,000
GeorgiaGeorgia Georgia Europe Zura Kutchava Full member Mountaineering And Climbing Association Of Georgia 1993 000000000000165.0000000000165
GreeceGreece Greece Europe Dimitrios Georgoulis Full member Hellenic Federation Of Mountaineering And Climbing (EOOA) 1936 000000000006500.00000000006,500
GuatemalaGuatemala Guatemala South America Meder Stuardo Valdez Fuentes Full member Federación Nacional De Andinismo De Guatemala 2017 000000000000325.0000000000325
Hong KongHong Kong Hong Kong Asia Mr. YU Ka-chi, Frederick Full member China Hong Kong Mountaineering And Climbing Union 1988 000000000005002.00000000005,002
IndiaIndia India Asia Colonel HS Chauhan Full member Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) 1981 000000000004001.00000000004,001
IndiaIndia India Asia Col Ajay Kothiyal, KC, SC, VSM Associated Nehru Institute Of Mountaineering 2011 000000000000129.0000000000129
IndonesiaIndonesia Indonesia Asia Mr. Dhohir Farisi Full member Indonesia Sport Climbing And Mountaineering Federation 2016 000000000003500.00000000003,500
IranIran Iran Asia Reza Zarei Full member IR Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (IMSCF) 1972 000000000022000.000000000022,000
IrelandIreland Ireland Europe Paul Kellagher Full member Mountaineering Ireland (MCI) 2004 000000000013180.000000000013,180
IsraelIsrael Israel Asia Gili Tene Full member Israel Climbers' Club (Former Israeli Alpine Club) 2009 000000000000250.0000000000250
ItalyItaly Italy Europe Georg Simeoni Associated Alpine Association South Tyrol (AVS) 1974 000000000067788.000000000067,788
ItalyItaly Italy Europe Marino Giacometti Unit member International Skyrunning Federation (ISF) 2016
JapanJapan Japan Asia Hitoshi Onodera Full member Japan Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Association (JAC) 1967 000000000039000.000000000039,000
JordanJordan Jordan Asia Dr. Abdelrazzaq Arabiat observer Jordan Tourism 2013
CanadaCanada Canada North America Neil Bosch Full member Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) 1947 000000000014366.000000000014,366
CanadaCanada Canada North America Ronald Whitehead Associated Ecole Nationale d'Escalade du Québec - 000000000000117.0000000000117
CanadaCanada Canada North America Vincent Causse Associated Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME) 1975 000000000002745.00000000002,745
KazakhstanKazakhstan Kazakhstan Asia Valiyev Kazbek Full member Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation Of The Republic Of Kazakhstan 2017 000000000000330.0000000000330
KosovoKosovo Kosovo Europe Arben Lila Full member Kosovo Mountaineering And Alpinist Federation 2011 000000000001265.00000000001,265
CroatiaCroatia Croatia Europe Darko Berljak Full member Hrvatski Planinarski Savez - Croatian Mountaineering Association (HPS) 1991 000000000013704.000000000013,704
LiechtensteinLiechtenstein Liechtenstein Europe Caroline Egger Full member Liechtenstein Alpine Association (LAV) 1959 000000000002865.00000000002,865
LithuaniaLithuania Lithuania Europe Kestuti's scruples Full member Lithuanian Mountaineering Association 1991 000000000000131.0000000000131
LuxembourgLuxembourg Luxembourg Europe Ms. Yoo Yes LUDWIG Full member FLERA u. a. with the GAL 1938 000000000000517.0000000000517
MalaysiaMalaysia Malaysia Asia Dato 'Haji Khalid Bin Yunus observer National Adventure Association Of Malaysia 2015 000000000000047.000000000047
MaltaMalta Malta Europe Simon Alden Full member Malta Climbing Club 2018 000000000000127.0000000000127
MoroccoMorocco Morocco Africa M. Hicham Ait Ouarchikh Full member Federation Royale Marocaine de Ski et Montagnes (FRMSSM) 2017 000000000002000.00000000002,000
MonacoMonaco Monaco Europe Pierre Ferry Full member Club Alpin Monégasque (CAM) 1994 000000000000344.0000000000344
MongoliaMongolia Mongolia Asia Tulga Buya Full member Mongolian National Climbing Federation 2010 000000000000220.0000000000220
NepalNepal Nepal Asia Santa Bir Lama Full member Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) 1975 000000000001332.00000000001,332
New ZealandNew Zealand New Zealand Oceania John Palmer Full member
founding member
New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) 1932 000000000004010.00000000004.010
NetherlandsNetherlands Netherlands Europe Joachim Driessen Full member Royal Dutch Mountaineering And Climbing Club (NKBV) 1932 000000000064174.000000000064.174
North MacedoniaNorth Macedonia North Macedonia Europe Prof. Dr. Jovica Ugrinovski Full member Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia 1999 000000000000254.0000000000254
NorwayNorway Norway Europe Hilde Aass Full member Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK) 1965 000000000000730.0000000000730
NorwayNorway Norway Europe Stone Tronstad Associated The Norwegian Climbing Federation (NKF) 1993 000000000023038.000000000023,038
AustriaAustria Austria Europe Mag. Miriam Aigner-Köthe Full member VAVÖ u. a. with ÖAV and ÖTK 1951 000000000760816.0000000000760.816
PakistanPakistan Pakistan Asia Mr.Abu Zafar Sadiq Full member Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) 1979 000000000000133.0000000000133
PolandPoland Poland Europe Piotr Pustelnik Full member Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) 1932 000000000006117.00000000006.117
PortugalPortugal Portugal Europe Jorge Gabriel Jesus Oliveira Full member Clube Nacional De Montanhismo 1955 000000000000080.000000000080
PortugalPortugal Portugal Europe Joao Luis Queiroz Associated Federacao De Campismo E Montanhismo De Portugal (FCMP) 1992 000000000000692.0000000000692
PortugalPortugal Portugal Europe Carlos Manuel Moreira Gomes Associated Federação Portuguesa De Montanhismo E Escalada (FPME) 2004 000000000000654.0000000000654
PortugalPortugal Portugal Europe Luisa Pinto Ferreira observer Clube de Actividades de Ar Livre 2011 000000000000561.0000000000561
RomaniaRomania Romania Europe Alexandru Ioan Paun Full member Clubul Alpin Român (CAR) 1934 000000000000287.0000000000287
RussiaRussia Russia Europe Andrei Volkov Full member Russian Mountaineering Federation 2007 000000000002200.00000000002,200
SwedenSweden Sweden Europe Truls Neubeck Full member Swedish Climbing Federation (SKF) 1973 000000000011400.000000000011,400
SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Europe Françoise Jaquet Full member Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) 1932 000000000152282.0000000000152.282
SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Europe Gregor Dürrenberger Associated Association of Academic Alpine Clubs in Switzerland 1985 000000000000155.0000000000155
SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Europe Gregor Dürrenberger observer International Federation Of Mountain Guides Associations (IVBV / IFMGA / UIAGM) 1987 000000000006000.00000000006,000
SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland Europe Thomas Buckingham observer International Slackline Association (ISA) 2019 000000000001500.00000000001,500
SerbiaSerbia Serbia Europe Boris M. Mićić Full member Mountaineering Association Of Serbia - Planinarski Savez Srbije (PSS) 2002 000000000001183.00000000001,183
SlovakiaSlovakia Slovakia Europe Igor Koller Full member Slovak Mountaineering Union James - Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok James (JAMES) 1932 000000000004833.00000000004,833
SloveniaSlovenia Slovenia Europe Jože Rova Full member Alpine Association Of Slovenia (PZS) 1991 000000000058431.000000000058,431
SpainSpain Spain Europe Joan Garrigos i Toro Full member Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME) 1932 000000000116267.0000000000116.267
SpainSpain Spain Europe Dr. Eduard Cayon i Costa Associated Center Excursionista De Catalunya 1932 000000000004000.00000000004,000
SpainSpain Spain Europe Jose Ramon Alonso Rodrigo Associated Euskal Mendizale Federazioa - Basque Mountaineering Federation 2002 000000000033653.000000000033,653
SpainSpain Spain Europe Jordi Merino i Urbano Associated Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC) 2000 000000000041303.000000000041,303
Sri LankaSri Lanka Sri Lanka Asia Pradip Elmo Francis observer National Mountaineering & Climbing Association Sri Lanka 2015 000000000000001.00000000001
South AfricaSouth Africa South Africa Africa Greg Moseley Full member Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) 1992 000000000004871.00000000004,871
Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea Asia Chang Sungpil Full member Corean Alpine Club 1969 000000000000920.0000000000920
Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea Asia Kim Jong Gil Associated Korean Alpine Federation 1970 000000000001000.00000000001,000
TaiwanRepublic of China (Taiwan) Taiwan Asia Pan-Nan Huang Full member Chinese Taipei Alpine Association 1989 000000000001852.00000000001,852
TaiwanRepublic of China (Taiwan) Taiwan Asia Hwang I-Yuan Associated Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association 1993 000000000000385.0000000000385
Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic Europe Jan Bloudek Full member Czech Mountaineering Federation - Cesky Horolezecky Svaz (CHS) 1932 000000000015157.000000000015,157
Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic Europe Michal Lollok observer Czech Mountain Leader Association - Český Spolek Horských Průvodců 2010 000000000000087.000000000087
TurkeyTurkey Turkey Europe Ersan BAŞAR Full member Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu (TDF) 1967 000000000006780.00000000006,780
UkraineUkraine Ukraine Europe Valentyn K. Symonenko Full member Ukrainian Mountaineering And Climbing Federation 1991 000000000000621.0000000000621
HungaryHungary Hungary Europe Ildiko Kandracs Full member Magyar Hegy- És Sportmászó Szövetség - Hungarian Mountaineering And Sport Climbing Federation (Mhssz) 1932 000000000001125.00000000001,125
United StatesUnited States United States North America Phi Powers Full member
founding member
American Alpine Club (AAC) 1932 000000000023330.000000000023,330
United StatesUnited States United States North America Terrance L. Gacke Associated Alaskan Alpine Club 1985 000000000000069.000000000069
Cyprus RepublicRepublic of Cyprus Cyprus Europe Pavlos Georgiades Full member Mountaineering And Climbing Federation Of Cyprus (KOMOAAP) 2007 000000000000340.0000000000340

Former UIAA affiliates

country continent organization Period
FranceFrance France Europe FFME -
ItalyItaly Italy Europe CAI 1932-2019
AustriaAustria Austria Europe ASKIMO -

Web links

Commons : UIAA  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ The German and Austrians Leave UIAA czechclimbing.com (March 13, 2008).
  2. Back to the community . DAV again UIAA member. In: German Alpine Association (Ed.): DAV Panorama . tape 65 , no. 6 , 2013, ISSN  1437-5923 , p. 7 .
  3. theuiaa.org: EUMA and the UIAA start collaboration
  4. theuiaa.org: Continental Organizations (English)
  5. Safety Standards - UIAA. Retrieved September 29, 2019 (American English).
  6. ^ UIAA Documentation and Information Commission: The Four Thousand Mountains in the Alps - Official UIAA directory . In: UIAA bulletin . No. 145 , March 1994, p. 9 f . ( hikr.org [PDF; 630 kB ; accessed on May 15, 2008]).
  7. theuiaa.org: About Us (English)
  8. theuiaa.org: Honorary Members (Status: 2019; English)
  9. theuiaa.org: Directory of UIAA member organizations (English)