Albert Eggler
Albert Eggler (born June 11, 1913 in Brienz BE ; † August 25, 1998 on the Simmenfluh , Bernese Oberland ) was a Swiss advocate , alpinist and central president of the Swiss Alpine Club .
Life
Eggler was born in Brienz, in the Bernese Oberland, as the son of the notary Albert Eggler. He studied in Bern and Berlin law . He was then admitted to the bar and became an advocate.
In the Swiss militia army , he acquired leadership experience in managerial positions in military mountain courses and extensive knowledge of working together under mountain conditions (building bivouacs, materials, supply and return) and became captain of the mountain troops . Since 1934 he was a member of the Academic Alpine Club Bern (AACB) and belonged to the mountaineering elite around Wolfgang Diehl , who followed the development of ascents in the Himalayas . In 1953 he became a member of the SAC Section Bern , which made him an honorary member in 1967.
At the beginning of 1955 he was selected by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research (SSAF) as overall leader for the following year's expedition. He led the Swiss Himalayan Expedition in 1956 , which managed the first ascent of Lhotse and the second and third ascent of Mount Everest .
From 1964 to 1967 he was central president of the Swiss Alpine Club , in 1966 head of the Army Avalanche Service and from 1968 to 1972 UIAA president . From 1987 to 1993 he was President of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research . He was an internationally known expedition leader and promoter of Swiss alpinism as well as an honorary member of the SAC.
Fonts
- Summit above the clouds. Lhotse and Everest . Hallwag Publishing House, Bern 1956
Web links
- Peter Bernet: Albert Eggler. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland .
- NZZ from April 5, 2013: As one of the first on the roof of the world
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alpine info: Expedition participants from 1956
- ^ SAC Die Alpen 10, 1998: On the death of Albert Eggler
Charles Egmond d'Arcis (1932–1964) | Edouard Wyss-Dunant (1964–1968) | Albert Eggler (1968–1972) | Jean Juge (1972–1976) | Pierre Bossus (1976-1984) | Carlo Sganzini (1984-1990) | Pietro Segantini (1990-1995) | Ian McNaught-Davis (1995-2004) | Alan Blackshaw (2004-2005) | Mike Mortimer (2005-2011) | Frits Vrijlandt (since 2012)
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Eggler, Albert |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss alpinist, central president of the Swiss Alpine Club |
| DATE OF BIRTH | June 11, 1913 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Brienz BE near the Bernese Oberland |
| DATE OF DEATH | August 25, 1998 |
| Place of death | Stockhorn |