Grandes Jorasses
| Grandes Jorasses | ||
|---|---|---|
 North face above Glacier de Leschaux (March 2005) |
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| height | 4208 m (Pointe Walker) | |
| location | France / Italy | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc massif | |
| Dominance | 7.9 km → Mont Blanc du Tacul | |
| Notch height | 843 m ↓ Col du Géant | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 52 '8 " N , 6 ° 59' 22" E | |
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| First ascent | June 30, 1868 by Horace Walker , Melchior Anderegg , J. Jaun, J. Grange on the southwest flank | |
| Normal way | Southwest flank to Pointer Walker, ice up to 50 °, AD- | |
 South side of the Grandes Jorasses |
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The Grandes Jorasses [ gʀɑ̃d ʒɔˈʀas ] are a multi-peaked mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the Alps, on the border between France and Italy .
The highest peak is the Pointe Walker at 4208 meters , other peaks are the Pointe Whymper (4184 m), the Pointe Croz (4110 m), the Pointe Hélène (also called Pointe Elena , 4045 m), the Pointe Marguerite ( Margherita , 4065 m ) and the Pointe Young (3996 m).
First ascent and normal climbs
The normal ascent takes place from Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte e Mario Piolti over the partially glaciated south side, ZS . On June 24, 1865, the first ascent was made by a group that included Edward Whymper , guides Michel Croz , Christian Almer and Franz Biner . During this expedition, however, the highest point was not yet entered, but “only” the 24 meter lower secondary summit, later named after Whymper. The main summit was first reached three years later by Horace Walker , Melchior Anderegg , J. Jaun and J. Grange via the southwest flank.
North face
The Grandes Jorasses are famous for their almost vertical north face, which rises 1000 m above the Leschaux glacier . She counted along with the north face of the Matterhorn and Eiger to the "last three issues of the Alps" before 1935 on the north pillar of the Pointe Croz ( Crozpfeiler ) for the first time by Martin Meier and Rudolf Peters was increased. Riccardo Cassin , L. Esposito and U. Tizzioni climbed the direct route to Pointe Walker via the Walker pillar in three days in August 1938. In 1975, Wojciech Kurtyka , Jerzy Kukuczka and Marek Łukaszewski opened the so-called Poland route through the north face to Pointe Hélène.
The speed record through the Grandes-Jorasses north face on the Colton-McIntyre-Route ( AS (5+ (UIAA) / M4 +) ) solo to the highest peak, the Pointe Walker, was held by the Swiss Ueli Steck with 2nd place from December 28, 2008 : 21 hours. His compatriot Dani Arnold set a new record at the end of July 2018, climbing the Pointe Walker solo via another route, the Cassin route, in 2:04 hours.
Works of art
The Grand Jorasses were painted (seen from the north) by Carl Gustav Carus in 1824: The Arctic Ocean of Chamonix , and - as an alienation - by Caspar David Friedrich : Das Hochgebirge , also 1824.
The south side of the Jorasses above the glaciers of Planpincieux was - also alienated - painted by René Magritte "The Domain of Arnheim".
See also
literature
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Uli Auffermann : In the shadow of the north face. Triumph and tragedy on the Matterhorn, Eiger and Grandes Jorasses. Bruckmann, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-7654-5626-8 .
Web links
- Grandes Jorasses at 4000m - the four-thousanders of the Alps
Individual evidence
- ↑ Ascent of Kurtyka up to 1980, accessed on January 30, 2017
- ↑ Ueli Steck sets a new speed record on the Grandes Jorasses: 2h 21min. In: climbing.de. January 18, 2009, accessed December 8, 2018 .
- ↑ Jonathan Griffith: Ueli Steck speed soloing on the Grandes Jorasses. Retrieved August 6, 2011 . (Video)
- ↑ Dani Arnold sets a speed record on the Grandes Jorasses north face. In: lacrux.com on August 14, 2018, accessed December 27, 2018.
- ↑ Tim Ehrensperger: Swiss climber breaks Ueli Steck's speed record. In: Berner Zeitung .ch from August 15, 2018, accessed on December 27, 2018.