Jerzy Kukuczka

Jerzy Kukuczka (left) with Andrzej Czok during the ascent of Mount Everest in 1980

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (born March 24, 1948 in Katowice ; † October 24, 1989 on the Lhotse South Face, Nepal ) was a successful Polish mountaineer . He was the second person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders .

Life

In his school days, Kukuczka practiced weightlifting , but had to put this sporting passion to rest on medical advice in order to focus on mountaineering even more intensively from now on. In 1965 he joined the Polish Tatra Club.

Between 1979 and 1987, Kukuczka was the second person (after Reinhold Messner ) to climb all 14 eight-thousanders , using bottled oxygen at times on Mt. Everest . During his ascent he opened nine new routes including a solo ascent on Makalu . He made five climbs in alpine style and four for the first time in winter.

At the 1988 Winter Olympics in Calgary, the IOC wanted to award both Messner and Kukuczka Olympic medals in silver. However, Messner refused the award on the grounds that he wanted to prevent a new competition for the ascent of all eight-thousanders . Kukuczka, who saw a crucial difference between the medal of honor of the Olympic Order and an Olympic medal , accepted the award.

While attempting to be the first to climb the south face of Lhotse, Kukuczka had a fatal accident in 1989 at an altitude of 8,200 m when the rope broke and he fell two kilometers. His body was buried in an ice crevice near the crash site. In the Nepalese settlement of Chukhung in Khumbu, which is close to the south face of Lhotse, and in the Symbolic Memorial Cemetery of the Fatalities in the Mountains (Symbolický cintorín pri Popradskom plese) in Zlomisková dolina in the High Tatras , memorial plaques were inaugurated in his honor.

Ascents

Graffito Kukuczkas in his hometown Katowice

• 1971: Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Pośredni (Middle Mengsdorf Peak) ( High Tatras ) north face, winter ascent
• 1971: Devil's Needle ( Rila Mountains )
• 1972: Civetta direct route
• 1973: Mont Blanc east face
• 1974: Mount McKinley ( Alaska ) south face
• 1975: Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc group) north face
• 1976: Kohe Tez ( Hindu Kush ) (7015 m) over the north side
• 1978: Tirich Mir Ost (7692 m)
• 4th October 1979: Lhotse
• May 19, 1980: Mount Everest, first ascent of the south pillar (partly with bottled oxygen)
• 1981: Malte Brun (New Zealand Alps)
• October 15, 1981: Makalu over the northwest ridge, first solo ascent of Makalu
• July 30, 1982: Broad Peak on the normal route in alpine style with Wojciech Kurtyka
• July 1, 1983: Gasherbrum II
• July 23, 1983: Hidden Peak
• July 17, 1984: Broad Peak , first crossing of north, middle and main peaks
• January 21, 1985: Dhaulagiri , first winter ascent
• February 15, 1985: Cho Oyu , first winter ascent
• July 13, 1985: Nanga Parbat over the south-east pillar of the Rupal wall
• January 11, 1986: Kangchenjunga , first winter ascent
• July 8, 1986: K2 after first ascent of the south face
• November 10, 1986: Manaslu
• February 3, 1987: Annapurna , first winter ascent
• September 18, 1987: Shishapangma
• 1988: Annapurna south face to the east summit (8010 m)

See also

• List of climbers who have climbed all eight-thousanders

literature

• Na szczytach świata . Krajowa Agencja Wydawnicza, Katowice 1990, ISBN 83-03-03166-X (wyd.2 Kraków, 1996, ISBN 83-86219-28-9 )
• Mój pionowy świat czyli 14 × 8000 metrów . 1995, ISBN 1-899397-09-4
• Ostatnia ściana . Agencja Reklamowa Komplet, Katowice 1999, ISBN 83-912268-0-8 .
• Jerzy Kukuczka: My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Meter Peaks . The Mountaineers Books, 1992, ISBN 0-89886-344-9 , 189 pp.

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka. EverestHistory.com, accessed April 8, 2009 . 
2. ^ Zbigniew Kowalewski, Josef Nyka: The Eight-Thousanders. Olympic Medals for Mountaineering? In: The Alpine Journal . 1988, p. 258 ( 1988 258-259 Nyka 8000ers.pdf article online on the Alpine Club website [accessed August 14, 2011]).
3. ↑ Questions to Reinhold Messner . In: Der Spiegel . No. 9 , 1988 ( online ).
4. ↑ Alicja Sidor, Piotr Zarzycki: Himalaya climbing as a form of physical activity - theoretical dissertation . In: Walery Zukow (Ed.): Pedagogy of health in physical culture . 2010, ISBN 978-83-62750-02-3 , pp. 269 .
5. ↑ Jerzy Kukuczka. (No longer available online.) Herrligkoffer Foundation, archived from the original on July 5, 2010 ; Retrieved September 13, 2010 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
6. ↑ ^{a b c d e f} Thomas Mitterer: Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989). In: bergfieber.de. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
7. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski : Ascents - Everest. (PDF; 355 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
8. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Gasherbrum I. (PDF; 57 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
9. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Nanga Parbat. (PDF; 49 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
10. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Kangchenjunga. (PDF; 42 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
11. ^ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - K2. (PDF; 48 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
12. ↑ ^{a b} ExWeb interview with Artur Hajzer, part 2: “He fell and now an invisible line seems to keep me away from the summits”. In: explorersweb.com. March 20, 2007, accessed August 8, 2010 . 
13. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Shisha Pangma. (PDF; 55 kB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 . 
14. ↑ Report on the Polish Annapurna South Face Expedition in the American Alpine Journal (AAJO)  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF)