Ascent of all eight-thousanders

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Reinhold Messner , who was the first to climb all eight-thousanders (photo from 2005)

The ascent of all eight-thousanders , i.e. the fourteen mountains worldwide with a height of over 8000 meters , is a special challenge in high-altitude mountaineering . Only 39 people have succeeded in this (as of 2019). Seventeen of them made it without the aid of bottled oxygen , which is considered an even more extraordinary achievement.

The first to climb all eight-thousanders is Reinhold Messner from South Tyrol . It began in 1970 and completed the series on October 16, 1986. In spring 2010, Oh Eun-sun from South Korea and Edurne Pasaban joined the list for the first time, followed by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner in August 2011. However, the South Korean's performance is controversial; u. a. one of their summit successes is being questioned in the professional world.

Several other climbers have claimed to have climbed all eight-thousanders, but not all of their climbs are recognized. Because of the sometimes massive use of helpers and aids, a debate is being held about the comparability of mountaineering performances.

The eight-thousanders

The Mount Everest , the highest mountain in the world

There are 14 eight-thousanders on earth. Specifically, these are Mount Everest (8848 m), K2 (8611 m), Kangchenjunga (8586 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Makalu (8485 m), Cho Oyu (8188 m), Dhaulagiri (8167 m), Manaslu ( 8163 m), Nanga Parbat (8125 m), Annapurna (8091 m), Hidden Peak (also called Gasherbrum I, 8080 m), Broad Peak (8051 m), Gasherbrum II (8034 m) and Shishapangma (8027 m). Ten of these mountains are in the Himalayas , the other four in the adjacent Karakoram . They are spread over the countries of India , Nepal , Pakistan and the People's Republic of China with its autonomous provinces of Tibet (Himalaya) and Xinjiang (Karakoram).

A number of minor peaks are also located at an altitude of 8,000 meters or more. For the ascent series, however, only the main peaks are counted, especially since there is no generally binding criterion as to when an elevation is to be classified as a sub-peak (see the article on mountain peaks ).

The abbreviation 14 × 8000 or 14 × 8000 is also used for climbing all eight-thousanders .

history

1950s and 1960s - first ascent of the eight-thousanders

On May 29, 1953 Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay succeeded in the first ascent of Mount Everest

As the first eight-thousander, the Annapurna was climbed on June 3, 1950 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal as part of a French expedition. Three years later, on May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay stood for the first time on the highest point on earth, the main summit of Mount Everest. The lowest of the fourteen, the Shishapangma, was the last eight-thousander to be climbed: on May 2, 1964, ten climbers on a Chinese expedition reached its summit.

Two mountaineers, both Austrians, each climbed two eight-thousanders for the first time: Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger . On July 3, 1953, Buhl was the first to stand on Nanga Parbat. Together with Diemberger and two others, he succeeded four years later, on July 9, 1957, the first ascent of Broad Peak. Diemberger was also a member of the six-person group that first reached the summit of Dhaulagiri on May 13, 1960.

1970s - first eight-thousander collectors

After all eight-thousanders had been climbed for the first time, high-altitude mountaineers aimed specifically at climbing several eight-thousanders from the 1970s onwards. Often they also set themselves the goal of not following the routes of the first climbers, but choosing other, more difficult ascent routes .

After the first ascent of the Rupalwand des Nanga Parbat in 1970 and the summit successes on the Manaslu in 1972 and the Hidden Peak in 1975, Reinhold Messner was the first person to climb three of these mountains, the latter in a two- person rope team with the Austrian Peter Habeler . This last ascent was a novelty, because until then the eight-thousanders had only been climbed in the expedition style , i.e. with storage chains, girders and fixed ropes. The Messner-Habeler team attracted even more attention when the two climbed Mount Everest together in 1978 - as the first without additional oxygen, which many had long thought impossible. In the same year Diemberger was successful on Mount Everest and Makalu. This means that Messner and Diemberger each recorded four of the highest peaks in their tour book; Messner added the K2 the following year. The goal of climbing all fourteen eight-thousanders has not yet been discussed - at least publicly. At the same time, the difficulties in obtaining the official permits required for a high-altitude expedition in Nepal, Pakistan and China have decreased. As a result, expeditions to the eight-thousanders were now also organized commercially. One of the first was a Dhaulagiri expedition advertised publicly by Max Eiselin in 1980, during which the Swiss Marcel Rüedi, among others, climbed his first eight-thousander.

1980s - race for the first title

Jerzy Kukuczka (left) together with Andrzej Czok in 1980 on the way to the summit of Mount Everest

In 1981 Messner climbed his sixth eight-thousander and in 1982 three more, something that nobody had managed to do within a year. On the ascent to the last, Broad Peak, he met the two Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka . For Kukuczka, the mountain was already the fourth eight-thousander.

In June 1983, Rüedi and his Swiss compatriot Erhard Loretan undercut Messner's speed record from the previous year by conquering three eight-thousander together in just fifteen days: Gasherbrum II, Hidden Peak and Broad Peak. A month later, Kukuczka also climbed Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak. In the same year Messner made his intention publicly to climb all eight-thousanders. He had already climbed the tenth with the Cho Oyu in May. His closest pursuer was Kukuczka with now six eight-thousanders; Rüedi and Loretan each had four.

While Messner and Kukuczka could not record a summit success on one of the missing eight-thousanders in 1984, the two Swiss climbed two each this year and thus caught up with Kukuczka.

In January 1985, Kukuczka climbed Dhaulagiri and less than a month later Cho Oyu. Two winter ascents in such a short time were not only a highly regarded achievement, the Pole reduced Messner's lead to just two peaks. The question of who would have climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders first has now caught the attention of the international press. Before the end of the 1985 season, Kukuczka managed his ninth eight-thousander, Rüedi and Loretan the numbers 7 and 8, Messner increased to twelve.

In 1986, Kukuczka climbed his tenth and eleventh eight-thousander, while Rüedi and Loretan each reached their ninth, before Messner set off for his penultimate, Makalu, in September. At the same time Rüedi was on the mountain, together with the Pole Krzysztof Wielicki . Wielicki reached the summit first, for him it was the fifth eight-thousander. Rüedi also stood on the summit, but died on the descent from his tenth eight-thousander and was later found dead by Messner.

On October 16, 1986 Messner reached the summit of the Lhotse and was the first to complete the eight-thousand-meter series. Kukuczka was at eleven peaks at this point and by the end of the year should still make the twelfth with the Manaslu; Meanwhile, Loretan suffered the first failure of his mountaineering career when he failed on his tenth eight-thousander. In the following year, Kukuczka climbed his last two and thus secured second place. It was only eight years later (1995) that Erhard Loretan completed his list as third.

Women's title hunt

Edurne Pasaban , who is considered the second woman on all eight-thousanders (photo from 2010)

Around twenty years after Messner's success, a comparable race for the title of the first woman on all eight-thousanders took place. The most promising candidates at the end of the 2006 season were the Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner , the Italian Nives Meroi and the Spanish Edurne Pasaban . Unlike the men, there was no clear favorite with a clear lead: Meroi and Kaltenbrunner had both stood on an eight-thousander for the first time in 1998 and have now climbed nine eight-thousander each. Pasaban, who debuted in 2001, was only one peak behind. The three weren't the first female eight-thousander collectors: Wanda Rutkiewicz had climbed six eight-thousander from 1975 to 1990 and wanted to climb all the remaining eight at great heights in 1991/1992 without descending into the flatlands in between. She managed two single-handedly in 1991; She was last seen in May 1992 on the ascent to Kangchenjunga and has since been considered missing.

In May 2007, Meroi worked his way to the top of Mount Everest. Less than two months later, Kaltenbrunner and Pasaban went to the summit of Broad Peak together. The group included other eight-thousander collectors: The Italian Silvio Mondinelli was 13th on the list of mountaineers who climbed all eight-thousander that day. For the Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo and Kaltenbrunner's German husband Ralf Dujmovits , on the other hand, nothing has changed for the time being, as both had previously been on Broad Peak. Vallejo had one more, Dujmovits two more summits. Both completed the series of ascent, Dujmovits on May 20, 2009 as the first German.

In 2008, two more women had climbed so many eight-thousanders that they were now among the possible candidates for the title of the first 14 × 8000 woman: the South Koreans Oh Eun-sun and Go Mi-sun . The former had already stood on an eight-thousander in 1997, in front of the three Europeans. Then she failed on Makalu, Broad Peak and K2, and it had taken seven years to conquer a second eight-thousander, Mount Everest. In 2006 she did her third, in 2007 two more. From then on, she used aids to a large extent in order to be able to climb as many eight-thousander as possible per season, for example flew to base camp in helicopters and used large teams to carry equipment and to trace paths. In 2008 alone, she “collected” four eight-thousanders and thus shortened the lead of Kaltenbrunner, Meroi and Pasaban, who were tied with eleven eight-thousanders each at the end of the season. She spoke openly of wanting to climb all eight-thousanders and called the project "Project 14".

Go Mi-sun made her debut on Cho Oyu in 2006, and in 2007 and 2008 she climbed three eight-thousanders each; their methods were like Oh's. In 2009 she managed three eight-thousanders in spring alone, and wanted to have three more follow in summer. On the descent from Nanga Parbat, her eleventh eight-thousander, she fell to her death. Meroi did not climb eight-thousanders for the time being from 2009 because her husband and rope partner became seriously ill.

Oh Eun-sun continued her ascent at a fast pace in 2009 and again recorded four eight-thousanders in one year in her tour book. In the late year she even made two attempts at the only remaining summit, the Annapurna, but broke both off. Nevertheless, she was now in the lead with thirteen of the fourteen mountains ahead of Kaltenbrunner and Pasaban with 12. However, their extraordinary performances had triggered skepticism. In particular, her ascent of the Kangchenjunga on May 6, 2009 was called into question. Various chroniclers and organizations refuse to recognize this summit success (for more details see the dispute over the ascent of Kangchenjunga ). The Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley , authoritative authority for the recognition of climbs in Nepal, lists the ascent in her Himalayan database as "controversial".

On April 17, 2010, Pasaban climbed her penultimate eight-thousander, the Annapurna, and caught up with her competitor Oh Eun-sun again. But just ten days later Oh Eun-sun was on the same summit, making it the first woman to climb all eight-thousanders. Just three weeks later, Pasaban finished second with the ascent of Shishapangma.

Kaltenbrunner completed the series on August 23, 2011 as the first woman without the use of bottled oxygen.

Evaluation and appreciation

Recognition of the summit successes

Elizabeth Hawley was seen as authoritative for the recognition of eight-thousander climbs in Nepal (1999 photo)

There is no official body that would be responsible for the recognition of a summit success on an eight-thousander. Anyone who claims to have climbed one of these mountains has to convince the experts of it. Today, the ascents are often documented by photo or video material, but testimonies and detailed reports are still used as evidence.

In the case of the alleged ascent of the Lhotse in 1997 by the Italians Sergio Martini and Fausto de Stefani , the vague description of the ascent caused doubts. A subsequent climber, Park Young-seok , was able to clarify that the footprints of the two ended at least 150 meters below the summit. The ascent was ultimately not recognized. De Stefani is therefore listed in the statistics with only thirteen eight-thousanders; Martini repeated the Lhotse three years later, completing his eight-thousander list.

For the ascent of an eight-thousander in Nepal, the assessment of the American journalist and chronicler Elizabeth Hawley was generally recognized. Hawley recorded every expedition to the seven and eight thousand meter peaks of Nepal since the early 1960s. This data collection forms the basis of the Himalayan Database . She met with the participants before and after an ascent and asked them about the chosen ascent routes, the location of the high-altitude camps, the time frame and the like. Should Hawley then come to the judgment that a climber had not reached the summit, the ascent would not have received any international recognition. For eight-thousand-meter ascent outside of Nepal there is no instance comparable to Hawley.

Evaluation of the competitive situation

Whether the climbing series is a sporting competition is assessed differently by the media and those involved. The fundamental question of whether mountaineering is a sport that is suitable for rivalries, competitions and performance comparisons has been discussed since the 19th century. Before the First World War , German and Austrian mountaineers competed to see who would be the first to climb all the four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps . They openly admitted - not without being criticized for it - to carry out a competition. In contrast, the question of whether there was a race for the position of the first on all eight-thousanders is answered inconsistently by those involved.

Although Reinhold Messner announced in 1983 that he wanted to climb all eight-thousanders, he said he never saw a competition in them. In later interviews, he said several times that his aim was not to set a record by being the first to climb all eight-thousanders. According to his account, it was the ascents themselves that interested him. He did not expect a race with Kukuczka, Rüedi or Loretan because he had such a big lead over the others that he was de facto impossible to catch. In addition, mountaineering is not a competitive sport and should not be misused to hunt records. A race was "exaggerated by the media".

In fact, by the end of 1983, Messner only had four peaks left and just as many ahead of Kukuczka and two more over Rüedi and Loretan. In the season after Messner's announcement, he and Kukuczka each climbed eight-thousanders on which they had already stood. If they had wanted to complete the eight-thousander list as quickly as possible, they would have had to go to the remaining peaks instead. A turning point can be seen in Kukuczka's double success at Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu in early 1985. The Pole halved Messner's lead to just two peaks within just under four weeks, the attention of the international press grew and with it the pressure on the mountaineers. The starting shot for the "horse race", as Kurt Diemberger described the unofficial competition between Messner and Kukuczka, had been given. The media focused on the magic number 14 and launched the “race of the mountain kings”. Elizabeth Hawley compared the drama of the closing stages of this race to that of a World Cup final. In their assessment, Messner saw the situation not as a race, but as a personal challenge. For others, like Kukuczka, it should have been a competition. He never said himself that he was aiming for a record. One can also come to a different conclusion with regard to Messner. Several German daily newspapers point out that Messner had himself flown from Makalu to Lhotse base camp by helicopter in 1986. You see the reason that he wanted to save time in order to win the race against his adversary Kukuczka. Erhard Loretan confessed to the situation more openly: "I would be lying if I said that the race for the fourteen eight-thousanders never interested me," he writes in his autobiographical work Den Bergen fell victim and adds: "My brain did not withstand the countdown, which was hailed to me everywhere. ”He then describes how he felt a rivalry with the Frenchman Benoît Chamoux ; the two fought for position three in the list of 14 × 8000 climbers.

At the 1988 Winter Olympics in Calgary, the IOC wanted to award both Messner and Kukuczka Olympic medals in silver. However, Messner refused the award on the grounds that he wanted to prevent a new competition. Kukuczka, who saw a crucial difference between the medal of honor of the Olympic Order and an Olympic medal , accepted the award.

When the first women, two and a half decades after men, set out to climb all fourteen highest mountains on earth, a race was once again conjured up by the media: Die Welt and Die Zeit were headlines in their online editions of the "Race of Summiteers", the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung of the "Eight-Thousand Hunting in the Himalayas", of the "Fight for the Eight-Thousand" and of the "Duel above the Clouds". In the mirror headlines could be read as "race in the death zone" or "showdown in the Himalayas".

The participating female climbers reacted differently to the developing competition situation. Oh Eun-sun never denied that it was a race, nor that she wanted the title of first 14 × 8000 woman. In this context, she is quoted as saying: “I just have a job to do.” She formulated her goal even more clearly in 2009: “I have the motivation to be the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.” Edurne Pasaban, too openly committed to this goal. However, she saw herself under great pressure from the Spanish media because of the competitive situation and in the meantime went to psychological treatment. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner positioned herself completely differently. She has repeatedly emphasized in interviews that she does not care about being the first. If she had actually had ambitions for this title, she would have opted for the simpler normal routes , says Kaltenbrunner; Competitive pressure would block them. She also warned of the risks of a record hunt: "High-altitude mountaineering is far too dangerous to want to see a competition in it." Nives Meroi said of the title hunt: "There was a time when I actually went through this crazy circus," and was happy to have been out of the race at a certain point.

Controversial methods

Juanito Oiarzabal climbed all eight-thousanders without additional oxygen (photo from 2007)

The use of various aids to climb the eight-thousanders is controversial. This includes, above all, the use of bottled oxygen as a climbing aid, but also the support of high girders and the particularly comprehensive securing of the route with several hundred meters of fixed rope . The individual mountaineering achievements meet different recognition depending on the extent to which these aids are used.

A particularly puristic form of mountaineering is the so-called alpine style . The peaks are climbed solo or in small rope teams, the mountaineers forego prepared routes and carry their own equipment and food. Messner, Kukuczka and Loretan from the first generation of eight-thousanders are named as classic representatives of this style. They were on difficult or even new routes , often alone or in small groups, often in winter; Additional oxygen was only used once by Kukuczka, at times during the first ascent of the south pillar of Everest. Because of the high demands and dangers of this style , they too only made single ascents in pure alpine style. Usually a modified form was used because, for example, the deep snow on the normal routes had already been groomed by other climbers. However, since they avoided outside help and bottled oxygen whenever possible, their achievements are praised as exemplary in terms of sport.

In contrast, the expedition style facilitates the ascent due to the high expenditure of personnel and material. The tours of Oh Eun-sun are given as an example of mountaineering in the expedition style. She was flown to the base camp by helicopter, had her routes traced, was traveling with large groups of porters and used additional oxygen at at least two peaks.

If high-altitude mountaineering is understood as a competitive sport , the expedition style and the massive use of aids are often heavily criticized; accordingly, the performance of having climbed all eight-thousanders is rated differently. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner categorically rejects additional oxygen. Messner's rope partner Hans Kammerlander denied Oh Eun-sun any sporting performance and compared her methods with using a moped for a bike race. Wolfgang Wabel, head of the elite sport department at the German Alpine Club , even classified the use of oxygen as doping . The association's magazine judged accordingly that Oh Eun-sun had "moved on the level of commercially run mountain tours rather than demonstrating athletic excellence."

Various mountaineers counter these allegations. In an interview with profil magazine in September 2010, Reinhold Messner was amazed at the criticism of the use of oxygen. After he and Peter Habeler climbed Mount Everest for the first time without additional oxygen, they were "condemned to the ground by the media" and "insulted as ambitious and irresponsible". He thinks it's funny that things are turning around today and that oxygen is even referred to as doping, says Messner. He also pointed out that Kaltenbrunner and Pasaban had also used helicopters. The German mountaineer Gaby Hupfauer admired while Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner purist style, but expresses itself against a categorical rejection of tools: "[...] it must each decide for himself how he is traveling on the mountain." A compromise is the attitude of the Swiss Evelyne Binsack a : In an interview with the Tages-Anzeiger, she spoke out in favor of recognizing both styles. In order to be able to take different services into account, she suggests "creating two different categories, 'with artificial oxygen' on the one hand and 'without artificial oxygen' on the other."

climber

Mountaineers who have climbed all eight-thousanders

So far 39 climbers have climbed all eight-thousanders. Explanation of the table columns:

  • No. indicates the order in which the eight-thousander ascent was completed.
  • No. without O 2 : Separate ranking for mountaineers who have made all ascents without additional oxygen
  • Ascent series : Date of the first and last ascent and the period between these dates, measured in years (a), months (M) and days (d). If individual mountains have been climbed several times, the first ascent is decisive.
  • Under Age is the age of the climber on the day of the last summit success (in years, but the column is sorted to the day).
  • In the next columns the circumstances of the ascent are given: How often was additional oxygen used ( O 2 ), how often first ascents ( new route ) and how often ascents were carried out in winter .
  • Wh. (Repetition) sums up the repetitions of ascents of one or more of the eight-thousanders.
  • Chronology contains fold-out fields with information on the individual ascents. Ascents with additional oxygen are marked with ( O 2 ) , first ascents of new routes with ( R ) , ascents in the calendar winter with ( W ) and ascents in the meteorological winter (1st to 20th December) with (w) . Repetitions are indicated with ( × 2 ) , ( × 3 ) , and so on. Special achievements such as not using bottled oxygen, first ascents, winter ascents and repetitions are only taken into account until the ascent series has been completed.
No.
total
No
without O 2
Surname m / f nationality Ascent series Age O 2 new routes
(R)
in winter
(w / w)
Wh.
(× 2)
chronology
first last Period
01 01 Reinhold Messner Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 06/27/1970 10/16/1986 16 a 03 M 19 d 42 7th 4th
  1. (06/27/1970)   Nanga Parbat ( R ) ( × 2 )
  2. (April 25, 1972)   Manaslu ( R )
  3. (8/10/1975)   Hidden Peak ( R ) ( × 2 )
  4. (05/08/1978)   Mount Everest ( R on 08/20/1980) ( × 2 )
  5. (07/12/1979)   K2
  6. (May 28, 1981)   Shishapangma
  7. (May 6th, 1982)   Kangchenjunga ( R )
  8. (07/24/1982)   Gasherbrum II ( × 2 )
  9. (08/02/1982)   Broad Peak
  10. (05/05/1983)   Cho Oyu ( R )
  11. (04/24/1985)   Annapurna ( R )
  12. (May 15, 1985)   Dhaulagiri
  13. (26.09.1986)   Makalu
  14. (16.10.1986)   Lhotse
02 Jerzy Kukuczka Mars symbol (male) PolandPoland Poland 04.10.1979 09/18/1987 07 a 11 M 14 d 39 1 9 4th 1
  1. (04/10/1979)   Lhotse
  2. (May 19, 1980)   Mount Everest ( O 2 ) ( R )
  3. (15.10.1981)   Makalu ( R )
  4. (07/30/1982)   Broad Peak ( R on 07/14/1984) ( × 2 )
  5. (07/01/1983)   Gasherbrum II ( R )
  6. (23.07.1983)   Hidden Peak ( R )
  7. (January 21, 1985)   Dhaulagiri ( W )
  8. (15.02.1985)   Cho Oyu ( W )
  9. (13.07.1985)   Nanga Parbat ( R )
  10. (11.01.1986)   Kangchenjunga ( W )
  11. (07/08/1986)   K2 ( R )
  12. (10/11/1986)   Manaslu ( R )
  13. (02/03/1987)   Annapurna ( W )
  14. (18.09.1987)   Shishapangma ( R )
03 02 Erhard Loretan Mars symbol (male) SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland 06/10/1982 05/10/1995 13 a 03 M 25 d 36 2 1
  1. (06/10/1982)   Nanga Parbat
  2. (16.06.1983)   Gasherbrum II
  3. (23.06.1983)   Hidden Peak
  4. (06/30/1983)   Broad Peak
  5. (04/30/1984)   Manaslu
  6. (24.10.1984)   Annapurna ( R )
  7. (07/06/1985)   K2
  8. (08.12.1985)   Dhaulagiri (f)
  9. (08/30/1986)   Mount Everest
  10. (21.09.1990)   Cho Oyu ( R )
  11. (October 2nd, 1991)   Makalu
  12. (October 1, 1994)   Lhotse
  13. (04/29/1995)   Shishapangma
  14. (05.10.1995)   Kangchenjunga
04th Carlos Carsolio Mars symbol (male) MexicoMexico Mexico 07/13/1985 05/12/1996 10 a 09 M 29 d 33 1 3
  1. (13.07.1985)   Nanga Parbat ( R )
  2. (07/18/1987)   Shishapangma
  3. (12.10.1988)   Makalu ( O 2 )
  4. (13.10.1989)   Mount Everest
  5. (May 12, 1992)   Kangchenjunga
  6. (13.06.1993)   K2
  7. (04/26/1994)   Cho Oyu
  8. (May 13, 1994)   Lhotse
  9. (07/09/1994)   Broad Peak ( R )
  10. (April 29, 1995)   Annapurna
  11. (May 15, 1995)   Dhaulagiri
  12. (04/07/1995)   Gasherbrum II ( R )
  13. (07/15/1995)   Hidden Peak
  14. (May 12, 1996)   Manaslu
05 Krzysztof Wielicki Mars symbol (male) PolandPoland Poland 02/17/1980 09/01/1996 16 a 06 M 15 d 46 1 3 3 1
  1. (17.02.1980)   Mount Everest ( O 2 ) ( W )
  2. (07/14/1984)   Broad Peak
  3. (10/20/1984)   Manaslu ( R ) ( × 2 )
  4. (11.01.1986)   Kangchenjunga ( W )
  5. (09/24/1986)   Makalu
  6. (31.12.1988)   Lhotse ( W )
  7. (April 24, 1990)   Dhaulagiri
  8. (October 21, 1991)   Annapurna
  9. (18.09.1993)   Cho Oyu ( R )
  10. (07.10.1993)   Shishapangma ( R )
  11. (04/07/1995)   Gasherbrum II
  12. (07/15/1995)   Hidden Peak
  13. (08/10/1996)   K2
  14. (01.09.1996)   Nanga Parbat
06th 03 (1) Juanito Oiarzabal Mars symbol (male) SpainSpain Spain 05/15/1985 04/29/1999 13 a 11 M 14 d 43
  1. (May 15, 1985)   Cho Oyu
  2. (08/16/1987)   Gasherbrum II
  3. (July 12, 1992)   Nanga Parbat
  4. (07.10.1993)   Mount Everest
  5. (24.06.1994)   K2
  6. (May 8, 1995)   Makalu
  7. (October 2nd, 1995)   Lhotse
  8. (07/12/1995)   Broad Peak
  9. (06/05/1996)   Kangchenjunga
  10. (07/09/1997)   Hidden Peak
  11. (October 8, 1997)   Manaslu
  12. (04/22/1998)   Dhaulagiri
  13. (10/10/1998)   Shishapangma
  14. (29/04/1999)   Annapurna
07th Sergio Martini Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 08/04/1983 05/19/2000 15 a 09 M 22 d 50 2
  1. (08/04/1983)   K2
  2. (01.10.1985)   Makalu
  3. (08/15/1986)   Nanga Parbat
  4. (09/21/1986)   Annapurna
  5. (08/08/1987)   Gasherbrum II
  6. (09/05/1988)   Shishapangma
  7. (09/17/1988)   Cho Oyu
  8. (May 11, 1989)   Dhaulagiri
  9. (07/29/1993)   Broad Peak
  10. (8/3/1994)   Hidden Peak
  11. (14.10.1995)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  12. (27.09.1996)   Manaslu
  13. (05/26/1999)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  14. (May 19, 2000)   Lhotse
08th Park Young-seok Mars symbol (male) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 05/16/1993 07/22/2001 08 a 02 M 06 d 37 5 1 1
  1. (May 16, 1993)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  2. (??. ??. 1994)   Cho Oyu ( × 2 )
  3. (May 3, 1996)   Annapurna
  4. (04/27/1997)   Dhaulagiri
  5. (07/09/1997)   Hidden Peak
  6. (07/17/1997)   Gasherbrum II
  7. (July 21, 1998)   Nanga Parbat
  8. (06.12.1998)   Manaslu (f)
  9. (May 12, 1999)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  10. (15.05.2000)   Makalu ( O 2 )
  11. (07/30/2000)   Broad Peak
  12. (02.10.2000)   Shishapangma
  13. (29/04/2001)   Lhotse ( O 2 )
  14. (07/22/2001)   K2 ( O 2 )
09 To Hong-gil Mars symbol (male) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 09/26/1988 09/21/2001 12 a 11 M 26 d 41 3
  1. (26.09.1988)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  2. (09/10/1993)   Cho Oyu
  3. (May 8, 1995)   Makalu
  4. (07/12/1995)   Broad Peak
  5. (October 2nd, 1995)   Lhotse
  6. (May 1, 1996)   Dhaulagiri
  7. (27.09.1996)   Manaslu
  8. (07/09/1997)   Hidden Peak
  9. (July 16, 1997)   Gasherbrum II
  10. (29/04/1999)   Annapurna
  11. (07/12/1999)   Nanga Parbat
  12. (19.05.2000)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  13. (31.07.2000)   K2 ( O 2 )
  14. (21.09.2001)   Shishapangma
10 04th Alberto Iñurrategi Mars symbol (male) SpainSpain Spain 09/30/1991 05/16/2002 10 a 07 M 16 d 33
  1. (09/30/1991)   Makalu
  2. (25.09.1992)   Mount Everest
  3. (24.06.1994)   K2
  4. (9/11/1995)   Cho Oyu
  5. (09/27/1995)   Lhotse
  6. (May 6th, 1996)   Kangchenjunga
  7. (10/11/1996)   Shishapangma
  8. (07/13/1997)   Broad Peak
  9. (May 23, 1998)   Dhaulagiri
  10. (29.07.1999)   Nanga Parbat
  11. (April 25, 2000)   Manaslu
  12. (28.07.2000)   Gasherbrum II
  13. (07/08/2001)   Hidden Peak
  14. (05/16/2002)   Annapurna
11 Han Wang-yong Mars symbol (male) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 09/28/1994 07/15/2003 08 a 09 M 17 d 36 3
  1. (9/28/1994)   Cho Oyu
  2. (14.10.1995)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  3. (04/27/1997)   Dhaulagiri
  4. (07/13/1997)   Hidden Peak
  5. (10/18/1997)   Lhotse
  6. (May 3, 1998)   Annapurna
  7. (July 21, 1998)   Nanga Parbat
  8. (05/12/2000)   Manaslu ( O 2 )
  9. (07/31/2000)   K2
  10. (05/14/2001)   Makalu
  11. (21.09.2001)   Shishapangma
  12. (05/13/2002)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  13. (06/26/2003)   Gasherbrum II
  14. (07/15/2003)   Broad Peak
12 05 Ed Viesturs Mars symbol (male) United StatesUnited States United States 05/18/1989 05/12/2005 15 a 11 M 24 d 45 6th
  1. (May 18, 1989)   Kangchenjunga
  2. (May 8, 1990)   Mount Everest ( × 6 )
  3. (08/16/1992)   K2
  4. (May 16, 1994)   Lhotse
  5. (10/6/1994)   Cho Oyu ( × 2 )
  6. (May 18, 1995)   Makalu
  7. (04/07/1995)   Gasherbrum II
  8. (07/15/1995)   Hidden Peak
  9. (April 22, 1999)   Manaslu
  10. (05/04/1999)   Dhaulagiri
  11. (04/30/2001)   Shishapangma
  12. (23/06/2003)   Nanga Parbat
  13. (07/15/2003)   Broad Peak
  14. (05/12/2005)   Annapurna
13 06th Silvio Mondinelli Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 10/13/1993 07/12/2007 13 a 08 M 29 d 49
  1. (October 13, 1993)   Manaslu
  2. (10/15/1997)   Cho Oyu
  3. (05/23/2001)   Mount Everest
  4. (07/22/2001)   Gasherbrum II
  5. (08/03/2001)   Hidden Peak
  6. (10/12/2001)   Dhaulagiri
  7. (05/16/2002)   Makalu
  8. (05/20/2003)   Kangchenjunga
  9. (07/26/2004)   K2
  10. (07/20/2005)   Nanga Parbat
  11. (05/09/2006)   Shishapangma
  12. (19/06/2006)   Lhotse
  13. (10/12/2006)   Annapurna
  14. (07/12/2007)   Broad Peak
14th 07th Iván Vallejo Mars symbol (male) EcuadorEcuador Ecuador 09/19/1997 05/01/2008 10 a 07 M 12 d 48 1
  1. (19.09.1997)   Manaslu
  2. (07/05/1998)   Broad Peak
  3. (05/27/1999)   Mount Everest ( × 2 )
  4. (07/31/2000)   K2
  5. (10/04/2002)   Cho Oyu
  6. (05/26/2003)   Lhotse
  7. (07/19/2003)   Gasherbrum II
  8. (07/26/2003)   Hidden Peak
  9. (05/16/2004)   Makalu
  10. (10/10/2004)   Shishapangma
  11. (07/20/2005)   Nanga Parbat
  12. (May 22, 2006)   Kangchenjunga
  13. (05/24/2007)   Annapurna
  14. (05/01/2008)   Dhaulagiri
15th 08th Denis Urubko Mars symbol (male) KazakhstanKazakhstan Kazakhstan 05/24/2000 05/11/2009 08 a 11 M 17 d 35 3 1 3
  1. (May 24th, 2000)   Mount Everest
  2. (05/23/2001)   Lhotse
  3. (08/13/2001)   Hidden Peak
  4. (08/18/2001)   Gasherbrum II
  5. (05/13/2002)   Kangchenjunga
  6. (25/10/2002)   Shishapangma
  7. (17/06/2003)   Nanga Parbat
  8. (7/18/2003)   Broad Peak ( R on 7/25/2005) ( × 2 )
  9. (05/30/2004)   Annapurna
  10. (04/25/2006)   Manaslu ( R am 05/08/2006) ( × 2 )
  11. (05/02/2007)   Dhaulagiri
  12. (02/10/2007)   K2
  13. (05/12/2008)   Makalu ( W on 02/09/2009) ( × 2 )
  14. (05/11/2009)   Cho Oyu ( R )
16 Ralf Dujmovits Mars symbol (male) GermanyGermany Germany 05/11/1990 05/20/2009 19 a 00 M 09 d 47 1 3
  1. (May 11, 1990)   Dhaulagiri
  2. (04.10.1992)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  3. (23.07.1994)   K2
  4. (05/09/1995)   Cho Oyu ( × 2 )
  5. (05/24/1997)   Shishapangma ( × 2 )
  6. (07/16/1999)   Broad Peak ( × 2 )
  7. (22.07.2000)   Gasherbrum II
  8. (06/30/2001)   Nanga Parbat
  9. (05/28/2004)   Annapurna
  10. (07/25/2004)   Hidden Peak
  11. (05/14/2006)   Kangchenjunga
  12. (May 19, 2007)   Manaslu
  13. (05/11/2008)   Makalu
  14. (05/20/2009)   Lhotse
17th 09 (2) Veikka Gustafsson Mars symbol (male) FinlandFinland Finland 05/10/1993 07/26/2009 16 a 02 M 16 d 41 3
  1. (05/10/1993)   Mount Everest ( × 3 )
  2. (10/09/1993)   Dhaulagiri ( × 2 )
  3. (23.07.1994)   K2
  4. (05/06/1995)   Lhotse
  5. (May 18, 1995)   Makalu
  6. (April 22, 1999)   Manaslu
  7. (04/30/2001)   Shishapangma
  8. (06/30/2001)   Nanga Parbat
  9. (04/22/2005)   Cho Oyu
  10. (05/12/2005)   Annapurna
  11. (05/14/2006)   Kangchenjunga
  12. (08.07.2008)   Gasherbrum II
  13. (07/31/2008)   Broad Peak
  14. (07/26/2009)   Hidden Peak
18th Andrew Lock Mars symbol (male) AustraliaAustralia Australia 07/30/1993 October 02, 2009 16 a 02 M 02 d 47 1 2
  1. (07/30/1993)   K2
  2. (May 25, 1997)   Dhaulagiri
  3. (08/07/1997)   Broad Peak
  4. (July 21, 1998)   Nanga Parbat
  5. (09.07.1999)   Gasherbrum II
  6. (07/17/1999)   Hidden Peak
  7. (05/24/2000)   Mount Everest ( O 2 ) ( × 2 )
  8. (04/21/2002)   Manaslu
  9. (05/16/2002)   Lhotse
  10. (9/25/2004)   Cho Oyu ( × 2 )
  11. (05/14/2006)   Kangchenjunga
  12. (05/24/2007)   Annapurna
  13. (05/21/2008)   Makalu
  14. (02/10/2009)   Shishapangma
19th 10 João Garcia Mars symbol (male) PortugalPortugal Portugal 09/24/1993 04/17/2010 16 a 06 M 25 d 42
  1. (9/24/1993)   Cho Oyu
  2. (24.09.1994)   Dhaulagiri
  3. (May 18, 1999)   Mount Everest
  4. (04/07/2001)   Gasherbrum II
  5. (07/26/2004)   Hidden Peak
  6. (05/21/2005)   Lhotse
  7. (May 22, 2006)   Kangchenjunga
  8. (10/31/2006)   Shishapangma
  9. (07/20/2007)   K2
  10. (05/19/2008)   Makalu
  11. (07/17/2008)   Broad Peak
  12. (April 28, 2009)   Manaslu
  13. (July 10, 2009)   Nanga Parbat
  14. (April 17, 2010)   Annapurna
20 (3) Piotr Pustelnik Mars symbol (male) PolandPoland Poland 07/19/1990 04/27/2010 19 a 09 M 08 d 58 7th 1
  1. (19/07/1990)   Gasherbrum II ( × 2 )
  2. (July 12, 1992)   Nanga Parbat
  3. (9/24/1993)   Cho Oyu
  4. (10/6/1993)   Shishapangma
  5. (09/26/1994)   Dhaulagiri
  6. (05/12/1995)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  7. (08/14/1996)   K2 ( O 2 )
  8. (07/15/1997)   Hidden Peak
  9. (15.05.2000)   Lhotse ( O 2 )
  10. (May 15, 2001)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  11. (05/16/2002)   Makalu ( O 2 )
  12. (05/17/2003)   Manaslu ( O 2 )
  13. (07/08/2006)   Broad Peak
  14. (27/04/2010)   Annapurna ( O 2 )
21st Oh Eun-sun (controversial) (4) Venus symbol (female) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 07/17/1997 04/27/2010 12 a 09 M 10 d 44 2
  1. (07/17/1997)   Gasherbrum II
  2. (05/20/2004)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  3. (10/3/2006)   Shishapangma
  4. (05/08/2007)   Cho Oyu
  5. (07/20/2007)   K2 ( O 2 )
  6. (05/13/2008)   Makalu
  7. (05/26/2008)   Lhotse
  8. (07/31/2008)   Broad Peak
  9. (October 12, 2008)   Manaslu
  10. (May 6, 2009)   Kangchenjunga
  11. (May 21, 2009)   Dhaulagiri
  12. (July 10, 2009)   Nanga Parbat
  13. (08/03/2009)   Hidden Peak
  14. (04/27/2010)   Annapurna
22nd Edurne Pasaban Venus symbol (female) SpainSpain Spain 05/23/2001 05/17/2010 08 a 11 M 24 d 36 2
  1. (05/23/2001)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  2. (05/16/2002)   Makalu
  3. (05/10/2002)   Cho Oyu
  4. (05/26/2003)   Lhotse
  5. (07/19/2003)   Gasherbrum II
  6. (07/26/2003)   Hidden Peak
  7. (07/26/2004)   K2
  8. (07/20/2005)   Nanga Parbat
  9. (07/12/2007)   Broad Peak
  10. (05/01/2008)   Dhaulagiri
  11. (05/10/2008)   Manaslu
  12. (May 18, 2009)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  13. (April 17, 2010)   Annapurna
  14. (05/17/2010)   Shishapangma
23 11 Abele Blanc Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 09/30/1992 04/26/2011 18 a 06 M 26 d 56 1 (5) 1
  1. (09/30/1992)   Mount Everest ( × 2 )
  2. (07/29/1993)   Broad Peak
  3. (14.10.1995)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  4. (October 13, 1996)   Manaslu
  5. (May 27, 1997)   Lhotse
  6. (May 14, 1998)   Shishapangma
  7. (May 21, 1998)   Cho Oyu
  8. (07/03/1999)   Hidden Peak
  9. (07/10/1999)   Gasherbrum II
  10. (May 15, 2000)   Makalu
  11. (29.07.2000)   K2
  12. (06/30/2001)   Nanga Parbat
  13. (10/12/2001)   Dhaulagiri
  14. (April 26, 2011)   Annapurna
24 Mingma Sherpa Mars symbol (male) NepalNepal Nepal 05/12/2000 05/20/2011 11 a 00 M 08 d 32 5 2
  1. (May 12, 2000)   Manaslu
  2. (??. ??. 2000)   Cho Oyu ( × 3 )
  3. (05/14/2001)   Makalu
  4. (09/22/2001)   Shishapangma
  5. (05/16/2002)   Lhotse ( O 2 )
  6. (??. ??. 2003)   Gasherbrum II
  7. (??. ??. 2003)   Broad Peak
  8. (05/16/2004)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  9. (07/27/2004)   K2 ( O 2 )
  10. (01.05.2009)   Dhaulagiri ( O 2 )
  11. (April 17, 2010)   Annapurna
  12. (July 10, 2010)   Nanga Parbat
  13. (08/05/2010)   Hidden Peak
  14. (20.05.2011)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
25 (6) 12 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Venus symbol (female) AustriaAustria Austria 05/06/1998 08/23/2011 13 a 03 M 17 d 40
  1. (May 6, 1998)   Cho Oyu
  2. (05/14/2001)   Makalu
  3. (05/10/2002)   Manaslu
  4. (May 20, 2003)   Nanga Parbat
  5. (05/28/2004)   Annapurna
  6. (07/25/2004)   Hidden Peak
  7. (05/07/2005)   Shishapangma
  8. (07/21/2005)   Gasherbrum II
  9. (05/14/2006)   Kangchenjunga
  10. (07/12/2007)   Broad Peak
  11. (05/01/2008)   Dhaulagiri
  12. (05/20/2009)   Lhotse
  13. (05/24/2010)   Mount Everest
  14. (23.08.2011)   K2
26 (7) Vasily Piwzow Mars symbol (male) KazakhstanKazakhstan Kazakhstan 08/13/2001 08/23/2011 10 a 00 M 10 d 36 1
  1. (08/13/2001)   Hidden Peak
  2. (??. ??. 2001)   Gasherbrum II
  3. (05/13/2002)   Kangchenjunga
  4. (25/10/2002)   Shishapangma
  5. (17/06/2003)   Nanga Parbat
  6. (07/18/2003)   Broad Peak
  7. (??. 05.2004)   Makalu
  8. (??. 05.2005)   Cho Oyu
  9. (05/02/2006)   Dhaulagiri
  10. (05/19/2006)   Annapurna
  11. (04/30/2007)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  12. (03/10/2008)   Manaslu
  13. (May 16, 2010)   Lhotse
  14. (23.08.2011)   K2
13 Maksut Shumayev Mars symbol (male) KazakhstanKazakhstan Kazakhstan 08/13/2001 08/23/2011 10 a 00 M 10 d 34
  1. (08/13/2001)   Hidden Peak
  2. (??. ??. 2001)   Gasherbrum II
  3. (05/13/2002)   Kangchenjunga
  4. (25/10/2002)   Shishapangma
  5. (17/06/2003)   Nanga Parbat
  6. (07/18/2003)   Broad Peak
  7. (??. 05.2004)   Makalu
  8. (??. 05.2005)   Cho Oyu
  9. (05/02/2006)   Dhaulagiri
  10. (05/19/2006)   Annapurna
  11. (04/30/2007)   Mount Everest
  12. (05/14/2008)   Manaslu
  13. (May 16, 2010)   Lhotse
  14. (23.08.2011)   K2
28 (8) Kim Jae-soo Mars symbol (male) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 10/06/1990 09/23/2011 20 a 11 M 17 d 50 5 3
  1. (06.10.1990)   Mount Everest ( O 2 ) ( × 2 )
  2. (10/08/1991)   Shishapangma ( × 2 )
  3. (05/16/2002)   Lhotse ( O 2 ) ( × 2 )
  4. (??. ??. 2007)   Broad Peak
  5. (08/01/2008)   K2 ( O 2 )
  6. (10/13/2008)   Manaslu
  7. (05/01/2009)   Makalu ( O 2 )
  8. (May 18, 2009)   Kangchenjunga ( O 2 )
  9. (06/09/2009)   Dhaulagiri
  10. (July 10, 2009)   Nanga Parbat
  11. (??. ??. 2010)   Gasherbrum II
  12. (08/05/2010)   Hidden Peak
  13. (April 26, 2011)   Annapurna
  14. (23.09.2011) Cho Oyu
29 14th Mario Panzeri Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 09/27/1988 05/18/2012 23 a 07 M 21 d 48
  1. (09/27/1988) Cho Oyu
  2. (09/28/1992) Mount Everest
  3. (29.07.1996) K2
  4. (May 28, 1997) Lhotse
  5. (05/12/2005) Annapurna
  6. (05/24/2006) Makalu
  7. (??. ??. 2006) Gasherbrum II
  8. (June 21, 2008) Nanga Parbat
  9. (??. ??. 2008) Broad Peak
  10. (May 19, 2009) Manaslu
  11. (05/17/2010) Shishapangma
  12. (May 20, 2011) Kangchenjunga
  13. (07/13/2011) Hidden Peak
  14. (May 18, 2012) Dhaulagiri
30th Hirotaka Takeuchi Mars symbol (male) JapanJapan Japan 05/22/1995 05/26/2012 17 a 00 M 04 d 41 3
  1. (05/22/1995) Makalu ( O 2 )
  2. (05/17/1996) Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  3. (08/14/1996) K2 ( O 2 )
  4. (06/30/2001) Nanga Parbat
  5. (05/28/2004) Annapurna
  6. (07/25/2004) Hidden Peak
  7. (05/07/2005) Shishapangma
  8. (05/14/2006) Kangchenjunga
  9. (May 19, 2007) Manaslu
  10. (08.07.2008) Gasherbrum II
  11. (07/31/2008) Broad Peak
  12. (05/20/2009) Lhotse
  13. (09/30/2011) Cho Oyu
  14. (May 26, 2012) Dhaulagiri
31 Chhang Dawa Mars symbol (male) NepalNepal Nepal 00.00.2000 04/30/2013 ? 30th ? nn
32 15th Kim Chang-ho Mars symbol (male) Korea SouthSouth Korea South Korea 06/14/2005 05/20/2013 07 a 11 M 06 d nn
33 Radek Jaroš Mars symbol (male) Czech RepublicCzech Republic Czech Republic 05/19/1998 07/26/2014 16 a 02 M 07 d 50
  1. (May 19, 1998)   Mount Everest
  2. (05/14/2002)   Kangchenjunga
  3. (07/18/2003)   Broad Peak
  4. (04/10/2004)   Cho Oyu
  5. (10/09/2004)   Shishapangma
  6. (6/28/2005)   Nanga Parbat
  7. (05/01/2008)   Dhaulagiri
  8. (05/21/2008)   Makalu
  9. (04/29/2008)   Manaslu
  10. (07/17/2010)   Gasherbrum II
  11. (07/28/2010)   Hidden Peak
  12. (May 19, 2011)   Lhotse
  13. (May 6, 2012)   Annapurna
  14. (07/26/2014)   K2
34 16 Nives Meroi Venus symbol (female) ItalyItaly Italy 00.00.1998 05/11/2017 19 a 55
  1. (00.00.1998)   Nanga Parbat
  2. (00.00.1999)   Shishapangma
  3. (00.00.1999)   Cho Oyu
  4. (00.00.2003)   Hidden Peak
  5. (00.00.2003)   Gasherbrum II
  6. (00.00.2003)   Broad Peak
  7. (00.00.2004)   Lhotse
  8. (00.00.2006)   Dhaulagiri
  9. (00.00.2006)   K2
  10. (00.00.2007)   Mount Everest
  11. (00.00.2008)   Manaslu
  12. (May 17, 2014)   Kangchenjunga
  13. (05/12/2016)   Makalu
  14. (May 11, 2017)   Annapurna
17th Romano Benet Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 00.00.1998 05/11/2017 19 a 55
  1. (00.00.1998)   Nanga Parbat
  2. (00.00.1999)   Shishapangma
  3. (00.00.1999)   Cho Oyu
  4. (00.00.2003)   Hidden Peak
  5. (00.00.2003)   Gasherbrum II
  6. (00.00.2003)   Broad Peak
  7. (00.00.2004)   Lhotse
  8. (00.00.2006)   Dhaulagiri
  9. (00.00.2006)   K2
  10. (00.00.2007)   Mount Everest
  11. (00.00.2008)   Manaslu
  12. (May 19, 2014)   Kangchenjunga
  13. (05/12/2016)   Makalu
  14. (May 11, 2017)   Annapurna
36 Peter Hámor Mars symbol (male) SlovakiaSlovakia Slovakia 05/19/1998 05/15/2017 18 a 11 M 27 d 53 ? 1 1
  1. (May 19, 1998)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
  2. (04/24/2006)   Cho Oyu
  3. (05/21/2006)   Annapurna ( R ) ( × 2 )
  4. (07/08/2006)   Broad Peak
  5. (07/15/2007)   Nanga Parbat
  6. (06/25/2008)   Hidden Peak
  7. (07/06/2008)   Gasherbrum II
  8. (05/21/2011)   Makalu
  9. (May 17, 2012)   Kangchenjunga
  10. (08/01/2012)   K2
  11. (May 21, 2013)   Lhotse
  12. (04/30/2014)   Shishapangma
  13. (May 10, 2016)   Manaslu
  14. (May 15, 2017)   Dhaulagiri
37 Ferran Latorre Mars symbol (male) SpainSpain Spain 04/19/1999 May 27, 2017 18 a 01 M 08 d 46 1
  1. (29/04/1999)   Annapurna
  2. (10/04/2005)   Shishapangma
  3. (07/12/2007)   Broad Peak
  4. (05/01/2008)   Dhaulagiri
  5. (05/10/2008)   Manaslu
  6. (May 18, 2009)   Kangchenjunga
  7. (31.07.2012)   Gasherbrum II
  8. (May 22, 2013)   Lhotse
  9. (26.09.2013)   Cho Oyu
  10. (07/26/2014)   K2
  11. (07/24/2015)   Hidden Peak
  12. (05/23/2016)   Makalu
  13. (July 25, 2016)   Nanga Parbat
  14. (27.05.2017)   Mount Everest ( O 2 )
38 18th Òscar Cadiach Mars symbol (male) SpainSpain Spain 08/07/1985 07/27/2017 31 a 11 M 20 d 64 2
  1. (08/07/1984)   Nanga Parbat
  2. (08/28/1985)   Mount Everest
  3. (04/10/1993)   Shishapangma
  4. (29.09.1996)   Cho Oyu
  5. (May 19, 1998)   Makalu
  6. (07/07/1999)   Gasherbrum II
  7. (05/23/2001)   Lhotse
  8. (04/10/2011)   Manaslu
  9. (May 6, 2012)   Annapurna
  10. (May 25, 2012)   Dhaulagiri
  11. (07/31/2012)   K2
  12. (May 20, 2013)   Kangchenjunga
  13. (07/29/2013)   Hidden Peak
  14. (07/27/2017)   Broad Peak
39 Nirmal Purja Mars symbol (male) NepalNepal Nepal 04/23/2019 October 29, 2019 00 a 06 M 06 d 36 Yes 2
  1. (April 23, 2019)   Annapurna
  2. (05/12/2019)   Dhaulagiri
  3. (15.05.2019)   Kanchenjunga
  4. (05/22/2019)   Mount Everest
  5. (May 22, 2019)   Lhotse
  6. (05/24/2019)   Makalu
  7. (July 3rd, 2019)   Nanga Parbat
  8. (15.07.2019)   Hidden Peak (= Gasherbrum I)
  9. (18.07.2019)   Gasherbrum II
  10. (07/24/2019)   K2
  11. (07/26/2019)   Broad Peak
  12. (23.09.2019)   Cho Oyu
  13. (27.09.2019)   Manaslu
  14. (29.10.2019)   Shishapangma
Remarks
(1) Oiarzabal first climbed Mount Everest in 1993 with the help of additional oxygen, but on May 23, 2001 he repeated the ascent without.
(2) Gustafsson first climbed Mount Everest in 1993 with the help of additional oxygen, but on May 23, 1997 he repeated the ascent without.
(3) Pustelnik and Oh completed their eight-thousander list on the same day on the same mountain, but Pustelnik was on the summit before Oh.
(4)Oh's ascent of the Kangchenjunga on May 6, 2009 is currently listed as "controversial" in the statistics, cf. Women's title hunt section .
(5) Blanc first climbed Mount Everest in 1992 with the help of additional oxygen, but on May 24, 2010 he repeated the ascent without.
(6) Kaltenbrunner was together with Piwzow and Schumajew on K2, but reached the summit before the two Kazakhs.
(7) Piwzow and Shumayev reached their last eight-thousander summit together.
(8th) Kim Jae-soo claims to have climbed Cho Oyu in 1993, but this ascent, unlike his ascent in 2011, was not recognized.

statistics

Piotr Pustelnik held the age record until 2016: at the age of 58, he climbed his last eight-thousander. (Photo from 2005) (Oscar Cadiach completed the series at 64 in 2017)

By July 2008 there had been a total of 10,229 successful ascents of the 14 eight-thousanders of the Himalayas and Karakoram. The first documented deaths in an attempt to climb 8000 meters were the disappearance of Albert Mummery and his two porters on Nanga Parbat in 1895. By July 2008, a total of 711 people died in attempts and ascent, 151 of them after a successful ascent.

Among the few who have climbed all eight-thousanders, the South Korean Kim Chang Ho was the fastest. It took him less than eight years for the entire series of ascent. In 2019, Nirmal Purja achieved a - often - shorter time with just under 7 months.

Jerzy Kukuczka made the most first ascents and most winter ascents during his ascents.

Oscar Cadiach took the longest at almost 32 years of age, the second longest for the Italian Mario Panzeri at over 23 years of age. Oscar Cadiach was also the oldest at 64, Piotr Pustelnik was 58, the second oldest of the 14 eight-thousander graduates. The youngest was Chhang Dawa , aged 30 years and nine months.

In a “nation ranking” Italy is with seven climbers on all eight-thousanders ahead of South Korea with six. This is followed by Spain with 5 climbers. Three each came from Poland and Kazakhstan .

The American Ed Viesturs had repeated most of the summits by the time the series of ascent was completed: he completed six additional eight-thousanders before completing the series. If you also take into account ascents after completing the 14th series, the Spaniard Juanito Oiarzabal has the most repetitions of the mountaineers listed here : He has already climbed a eight-thousander 26 times. Oiarzabal has set itself the goal of climbing all eight-thousanders twice. Only the Nepalese Phurba Tashi has completed the same number of eight-thousander climbs - but he has only climbed four different eight-thousander. (As of May 2011)

Nives Meroi and Romano Benet are the only couple who have stood on all 14 8000ers together - moreover, without the help of Sherpas or bottled oxygen. They were each 55 years old and married for 28 years at the time of completion. Nives met Romano at the age of 19 and they initially became rope partners.

Mountaineers who have climbed 13 eight-thousanders

Some mountaineers have so far climbed 13 of the 14 eight-thousanders. Several of them claim to have already climbed the missing summit. However, this is not recognized for various reasons.

Surname m / f nationality last missing summit comment
Fausto de Stefani Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 05/15/1998 Lhotse Ascent is not recognized.
Christian Kuntner Mars symbol (male) ItalyItaly Italy 05/15/2004 Annapurna died on May 18, 2005 while attempting to climb Annapurna.
Alan Hinkes Mars symbol (male) United KingdomUnited Kingdom Great Britain 05/30/2005 Cho Oyu Ascent is not recognized.
Norbert Joos Mars symbol (male) SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland 05/14/2006 Mount Everest Declared his eight-thousander mountaineering career over in 2008. He died in 2016.
Cering Doje Mars symbol (male) China People's RepublicPeople's Republic of China People's Republic of China 07/12/2007 Broad Peak Ascent is not recognized.
Luoze Mars symbol (male) China People's RepublicPeople's Republic of China People's Republic of China 07/12/2007 Broad Peak Ascent is not recognized.
Bianba Zaxi Mars symbol (male) China People's RepublicPeople's Republic of China People's Republic of China 07/12/2007 Broad Peak Ascent is not recognized.
Azim Gheychisaz Mars symbol (male) IranIran Iran Manaslu Ascent is not recognized.

Mountaineers who have climbed 12 eight-thousanders

Surname m / f nationality last missing peaks comment
Benoît Chamoux Mars symbol (male) FranceFrance France 3 controversial ascents, Kangchenjunga He died in 1995 when he wanted to climb the last eight-thousander, the Kangchenjunga, according to his own count.
Vladislav Tersyul Mars symbol (male) UkraineUkraine Ukraine Broad Peak, Shishapangma Ascent is not recognized. Tersyul died in 2004 while descending from Makalu.
Carlos Soria Fontan Mars symbol (male) SpainSpain Spain Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma

See also

literature

General

  • American Alpine Club (Ed.): The American Alpine Journal . ISSN  0065-6925 ( americanalpineclub.org American Alpine Club - Multiple Years).
  • Bernadette McDonald: See you in Kathmandu: Elizabeth Hawley - the chronicler of Himalayan mountaineering . With a foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-7048-X , chapter The race , p. 159 ff . (American English: I'll Call You in Kathmandu: The Elizabeth Hawley Story . Translated by Monika Einstrieber, Anja Rauchatz).
  • Peter Grupp: Fascination Mountain: The History of Alpinism . Böhlau Verlag, Cologne, Weimar 2008, ISBN 978-3-412-20086-2 , sport, performance, competition, regulation, chapter Two centuries of alpinism and mountaineering , p. 93 ff .

Mountaineering autobiographies

Article (selection)

Web links

  • 8000ers.com - Extensive website of the German chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski with information and statistics on the ascents of the eight-thousanders (English)
  • ExplorersWeb - Website with news about eight-thousander ascents

Individual evidence

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This article was added to the list of excellent articles on January 5, 2011 in this version .