Ralf Dujmovits

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Ralf Dujmovits (born December 5, 1961 in Bühl , Black Forest ) is a German extreme mountaineer , mountain guide and expedition leader . He is the first German to stand on the peaks of all 14 eight-thousanders and thus one of the most successful German high-altitude mountaineers . In addition to mountains in the Himalayas , he prefers to climb the Alps and the South American Andes .

In 1999 he took part in an ascent of the north face of the Eiger , which was broadcast live on television, and thus became known to a larger audience. Dujmovits conducted over 40 expeditions in different regions and is therefore one of the most experienced high-altitude mountaineers and expedition guides in the world.

For many years he was the director and owner of AMICAL alpin, a commercial organizer of mountain tours. In the fall of 2011 he gave up the management.

Dujmovits was married to extreme mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from 2007 to 2015 . Dujmovits has two children from another relationship. Together with Kaltenbrunner, he was awarded the “Mountain Spirit of the Year” in 2010 by the Munich Alpine Club Berggeist (AKB).

Ascent of the eight-thousanders

On May 20, 2009, Ralf Dujmovits became the first German mountaineer to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders on the Lhotse and was the 16th mountaineer in the world to do so. With the exception of Mount Everest , he succeeded in all ascents without additional bottled oxygen. Several attempts to climb Mount Everest again without additional bottled oxygen failed. a. 2015 during the earthquake in Nepal. In 2017, on his eighth attempt to reach the summit of Everest without additional oxygen, Dujmovits had to turn back at almost 8,600 meters due to heavy snowfall and strong winds. He had already announced in advance that this would be his last attempt on Everest.

Dujmovits climbed the eight-thousanders in the following order:

No. year mountain Height (m) annotation
1988 Makalu Demolition at 7800 meters (high altitude storm)
01 1990 Dhaulagiri 000000000008167.00000000008,167
02 1992 Mount Everest 000000000008848.00000000008,848 From the south saddle with the help of bottled oxygen
03 1994 K2 000000000008611.00000000008,611
04th 1995 Cho Oyu 000000000008188.00000000008,188
1996 Mount Everest and Lhotse Cancellation after reaching the main Nuptse summit and the southern saddle due to the risk of avalanches
1996 Shishapangma 000000000008008.00000000008.008 Central Summit
05 1997 Shishapangma 000000000008027.00000000008,027 Main summit
1998 Cho Oyu 000000000008188.00000000008,188 second ascent
06th 1999 Broad Peak 000000000008051.00000000008,051
07th 2000 Gasherbrum II 000000000008034.00000000008,034
08th 2001 Nanga Parbat 000000000008125.00000000008,125
09 2004 Annapurna 000000000008091.00000000008.091 French route
10 2004 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) 000000000008080.00000000008,080 Japanese couloir
2005 Shishapangma 000000000008027.00000000008,027 second ascent of Dujmovits, first south-north crossing
2005 Mount Everest Aborted at 7,650 meters due to brain edema of Hirotaka Takeuchi
11 2006 Kangchenjunga 000000000008586.00000000008,586 South flank
2006 Lhotse Aborted at 8,400 meters due to reaching the point of reversal
12 2007 Manaslu 000000000008163.00000000008,163
2007 Broad Peak 000000000008051.00000000008,051 second ascent
2007 K2 Attempt to climb at approx. 7800 meters failed due to the weather
13 2008 Makalu 000000000008485.00000000008,485
2008 Lhotse Ascent canceled
14th 2009 Lhotse 000000000008516.00000000008,516
2010 Mount Everest Ascent canceled at 8,300 meters
2012 Mount Everest Ascent on the south saddle ( 7950  m ) canceled
2014 Mount Everest Ascent canceled on the north side at 8,300 meters
2017 Mount Everest Ascent canceled on the north side at 8,580 meters (8th attempt without oxygen)

Further ascents

In October 2010 Dujmovits reached the summit of the Carstensz pyramid , which is one of the Seven Summits as the highest mountain in Oceania .

See also

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. spiegel.de - Up close and personal with the north face of the Eiger
  2. ↑ The mountaineering couple receives an award from the Alpine Club Berggeist. Alpine, November 17, 2010.
  3. 5. Report Nuptse-Ostgrat / Everest Expedition . Retrieved May 22, 2012.
  4. ^ Eberhard Jurgalski : climbing lists on www.8000ers.com