Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (2015)

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born December 13, 1970 in Kirchdorf an der Krems , Upper Austria ) is an Austrian mountaineer and one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers in the world. When she reached the summit of K2 on August 23, 2011, she was the third woman to have climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first to do so without any additional oxygen .

Life

Dhaulagiri
Broad Peak as seen from Concordia Square
K2 with the north edge as the ascent route

Alpinism

She began rock climbing at the age of thirteen . In 1994 she reached the 8,028 m high pre-summit of Broad Peak and thus at the age of 23 for the first time a summit above 8,000 m. In 1998 she stood on the summit of Cho Oyu (8188 m), in 2000 on the central summit of Shishapangma (8027 m), in 2001 on Makalu (8463 m) and in 2002 on Manaslu (8163 m). She had to abandon the ascent of the Kangchenjunga in 2003 because of strong storms, but in the same year she climbed the Nanga Parbat (8125 m). Since climbing it, she has lived exclusively from the media exploitation of her alpine experiences. In the following year, she climbed Annapurna (8091 m) and Gasherbrum I (8080 m).

In 2005, after Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner was the first to climb Shishapangma via a south-north crossing (ascent from the south, descent via the "normal route" to the north side) in the spring, she broke her first ascent to Mount Everest because of an illness of hers Climbing partner, but a little later stood at the summit of Gasherbrum II (8034 m).

In the second attempt (after 2003), Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 m) on May 14, 2006. She had to abandon the ascent of Lhotse just a few days later, as did two approaches to Dhaulagiri in May 2007. On the first attempt, she narrowly escaped a catastrophe when she was hit by a slab and buried under the avalanche . She managed to free herself from the snow masses on her own. A comrade was also able to free himself, while the Spanish mountaineers Santiago Sagaste and Ricardo Valencia , who bivouacked in the same place , perished. On July 12, 2007 she stood on the main summit of Broad Peak (8051 m) and thus on her tenth eight-thousander. Shortly afterwards, she tried for the first time to climb to K2 , which is considered the most difficult of all eight-thousanders. The ascent failed due to the bad weather conditions.

On May 1st, 2008 she reached the summit of Dhaulagiri (8167 m). After another attempt on the Lhotse a little later, which Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits broke off because of the risk of frostbite, it reached its summit (8516 m) in May 2009. Two further climbs to K2 in August failed.

On May 24, 2010 she climbed Mount Everest (8,848 m), the highest eight-thousander, i.e. the highest mountain in the world. She managed the last stretch to the summit by herself, Dujmovits had to descend early because of a cold. She broke off the ascent of K2 two months later. When one of her three comrades, Fredrik Ericsson , fell next to her on August 6, 2010 and was killed in the process, she turned back. In October 2010 she climbed the Carstensz pyramid (4,884 m), the highest mountain in Oceania .

On June 15, 2011, Kaltenbrunner and Dujmovits set out for Bishkek ( Kyrgyzstan ) to attempt to climb K2 via the north side as part of the International K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011 . On August 23, 2011, as part of this expedition, she reached the summit of K2 on the seventh attempt at 18:18 local time. After her, the other members of the expedition, Dariusz Załuski , Maksut Schumajew and Wassili Piwzow, reached the summit. Kaltenbrunner was the first woman to climb all eight-thousanders without additional oxygen.

Balance sheet

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers in the world and for years, alongside the Spaniard Edurne Pasaban and the Italian Nives Meroi, she was on her way to becoming the first woman to climb all eight-thousanders. Oh Eun-Sun from South Korea also joined the group later . However, Kaltenbrunner himself does not see extreme mountaineering as a competition: "If it was only about the record, I would have taken the easiest route everywhere [...] I don't care about being the first".

Oh Eun-Sun and Pasaban climbed their fourteenth eight-thousander each before Kaltenbrunner in April / May 2010. However, unlike Kaltenbrunner and Meroi, they also used oxygen from bottles .

Reinhold Messner praised Kaltenbrunner's tours without additional oxygen as great achievements. At the same time, he relativized her merits by describing a large part of her eight-thousander undertakings as “piste mountaineering”, as she mostly resorted to the infrastructures and tracks created by high mountain carriers.

Private

Kaltenbrunner is a trained nurse. In 2007 she married the extreme mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits , whom she met in 2004. In 2015 their separation became known and the marriage divorced.

Kaltenbrunner is vegan . In an interview, she said she was already vegan when she climbed K2 . She noticed that the vegan diet made her feel fitter, both physically and mentally. In addition, she feels more comfortable and the regeneration times have been shortened.

On Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website you can read:

"Inner enthusiasm, devotion, gratitude, an attentive, respectful and loving interaction with nature and all beings are the cornerstones of their lives."

“In lectures and seminars she passes on her experiences, experiences and knowledge. Gerlinde has been inspiring countless people from a wide variety of cultures, religions and all social classes for many years. "

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is committed to the Nepalhilfe Beilngries eV association

Expeditions

Ascent attempts and ascent of the eight-thousanders

No. date mountain Height ( m ) route annotation
June / July 1994 Broad Peak
Pre-Summit 		000000000008028.00000000008,028
000000000000001.00000000001 May 6, 1998 Cho Oyu 000000000008188.00000000008,188
May 7, 2000 Shishapangma
central peak 		000000000008008.00000000008.008
000000000000002.00000000002 May 14, 2001 Makalu 000000000008485.00000000008,485
000000000000003.00000000003 May 10, 2002 Manaslu 000000000008163.00000000008,163
May 2003 Kangchenjunga North flank Demolition at 7200  m due to strong storms
000000000000004.00000000004th June 20, 2003 Nanga Parbat 000000000008125.00000000008,125 Diamir flank , Kinshofer route
000000000000005.00000000005 May 28, 2004 Annapurna 000000000008091.00000000008.091 French route
000000000000006.00000000006th July 25, 2004 Gasherbrum I 000000000008080.00000000008,080 Japanese couloir
000000000000007.00000000007th May 7, 2005 Shishapangma 000000000008027.00000000008,027 South wall First south-north crossing
May / June 2005 Mount Everest Attempt of the Hornbein Couloir Aborted at 7650  m due to brain edema of partner Hirotaka Takeuchi
000000000000008.00000000008th July 21, 2005 Gasherbrum II 000000000008034.00000000008,034 Southwest spur
000000000000009.00000000009 May 14, 2006 Kangchenjunga 000000000008586.00000000008,586 South flank
May 26, 2006 Lhotse Reversal at 8400  m
May 2007 Dhaulagiri 1. Abortion due to altitude sickness of partner Lucie Oršulová
2. Abortion due to avalanche burial
000000000000010.000000000010 July 12, 2007 Broad Peak 000000000008051.00000000008,051
July 2007 K2 Cesen route Two attempts to climb failed due to unfavorable weather conditions
000000000000011.000000000011 May 1, 2008 Dhaulagiri 000000000008167.00000000008,167
May 28, 2008 Lhotse Ascent to approx. 8150 m canceled, risk of frostbite and illness of partner Ralf Dujmovits
000000000000012.000000000012 May 20, 2009 Lhotse 000000000008516.00000000008,516
4th August 2009 K2 Cesen route 1st attempt at the top of the bottle (> 8000 m) canceled
2nd attempt on August 4th canceled due to swimming snow (approx. 8200 m)
000000000000013.000000000013 May 24, 2010 Mount Everest 000000000008848.00000000008,848 Odell route
July 27, 2010 K2 Cesen route 1. Ascent attempt at 7300 m altitude (Camp IV) abandoned due to drift snow and strong wind
2. Ascent attempt canceled on August 6 after the crash of her companion Fredrik Ericsson shortly below the summit (at 8300 m altitude)
000000000000014.000000000014th 23 August 2011 K2 000000000008611.00000000008,611 North side Ascent mostly over the northwest ridge

More expeditions

date mountain Height ( m ) Mountains route annotation
May 1994 Muztagh Ata 000000000007509.00000000007,509 Pamir Demolition at 6600 meters
October 1997 Ama Dablam 000000000006856.00000000006,856 Himalayas South-west ridge
June 1999 Alpamayo 000000000005947.00000000005,947 To the Ferrari route
April 2004 Xifeng Peak 000000000007221.00000000007,221
17th May 2012 Nuptse 000000000007861.00000000007,861 Himalayas Scott route Ascent over the north pillar, 6th ascent of the main summit; Attempt to ascend the east ridge for the first time not carried out due to the risk of falling rocks.
May 12, 2013 Denali 000000000006197.00000000006,197 Alaska chain Normal way For acclimatization. Subsequently, attempt Cassin-Ridge not carried out due to bad ice and weather conditions, instead West-Rib-Route to the football field , no ascent of the summit.

See also

Publications

Movies

  • Mountain Passion - A woman at the top. 2006, directed by Victor Grandits. Documentary about Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.
  • Women's summit storm . 2009, directed by Franz Fuchs. Documentary about the first attempt at K2 in 2009.
  • Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - race above the clouds . 2010, directed by Victor Grandits. ARD / BR.
  • Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and the race in icy heights In: Bergauf-Bergab Bergsteigermagazin, BR, October 21, 2010 ( br-online.de: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner race above the clouds ( Memento from August 5, 2011 in the Internet Archive ))

museum

  • In 2015 the permanent exhibition "Between Heaven and Earth - Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and the world of the 8000ers" was opened in the monastery building in Spital am Pyhrn. Mountaineering at extreme heights is a multimedia experience - from the beginnings of mountaineering to conquering all 8000er peaks. With special attention to and many pieces of equipment from Kaltenbrunner.

Awards

Web links

Commons : Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Die Presse : Nepal: Alpinist Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner escaped avalanche death . May 15, 2007
  2. ↑ ORF : Kaltenbrunner conquered the tenth eight-thousander . April 12, 2007
  3. ^ ORF : attempt ended in tragedy . August 6, 2010
  4. ↑ Detlef Hacke, Gerhard Pfeil: Mountaineering: "Death is faded out". In: Spiegel . August 23, 2010, accessed May 16, 2020 .
  5. ↑ Manuel Zierer: 10 questions for extreme mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. In: Keller Sports. Keller Group GmbH, accessed on March 11, 2020 .
  6. ↑ ORF : Kaltenbrunner wants to know again . June 16, 2011
  7. ^ Johannes Schweikle : Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: No more records . In: The time . October 3, 2016, ISSN  0044-2070 ( zeit.de [accessed March 11, 2020]).
  8. ^ Fritz Neumüller: Kaltenbrunner defeats the K2 , Kurier , December 5, 2011 (accessed December 5, 2013).
  9. ↑ Stephan Orth: Kaltenbrunner and the K2: Triumph on Schicksalsberg . In: Spiegel Online . August 24, 2011
  10. ↑ 8000ers.com/ Eberhard Jurgalski : Statistics on the ascents of the 8000ers
  11. ↑ Bayerischer Rundfunk: Out and about with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: Good prospects from "Mahdlgupf" . June 23, 2016 ( br.de [accessed March 10, 2020]).
  12. ↑ "I don't care about being the first." Interview in the NZZ , November 20, 2009
  13. ↑ Oh Eun-sun over all mountains . The Standard , April 28, 2010
  14. ↑ Trapped Purists . In: ff - South Tyrolean weekly magazine . No. 19 , May 11, 2013, pp. 36-39 .
  15. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on Ö3: "I finished with the eight-thousanders. I don't want to challenge fate anymore." APA-OTS, May 3, 2015
  16. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: "I want to grow old healthy and happy" . In: ZEIT ONLINE . ( zeit.de [accessed October 17, 2018]).
  17. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner in an interview . In: Bergzeit Magazin . August 18, 2014 ( bergzeit.at [accessed October 17, 2018]).
  18. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Retrieved March 6, 2020 .
  19. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Retrieved March 6, 2020 .
  20. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Retrieved March 11, 2020 .
  21. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "1994: Broad Peak (Vorgipfel, 8,041 m)"
  22. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "1998: Cho Oyu, Nepal / Tibet (West, 8,201m)"
  23. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2000: Shisha Pangma, Tibet (Central Summit, 8.008m)"
  24. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2001: Makalu, Nepal (8,463m)"
  25. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2002: Manaslu, Nepal (8,163m)"
  26. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2003: Nanga Parbat, Pakistan (Kienshofer Route, Diamirflanke, 8,125m)"
  27. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2004: Annapurna I (French route, 8.091m)"
  28. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2004: Gasherbrum I, Nepal (Japanese couloir, 8,068 m)"
  29. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2005: Shisha Pangma, Tibet (8,013m over the south face)"
  30. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the way to Kangchenjunga. In: alpin.de . April 3, 2006, accessed on May 16, 2020 : "2005: Gasherbrum II, Pakistan (8,035m)"
  31. ↑ Nuptse Ostgrat Expedition 2012 - Summit !! via north pillar . May 20, 2012. Retrieved May 22, 2012.
  32. ^ Nuptse Ostgrat Expedition 2012 - 1st report . April 3, 2012, Retrieved May 22, 2012.
  33. ↑ Denali Expedition . June 1, 2013, accessed July 11, 2013.
  34. ↑ The King Albert I. Memorial Foundation: Six gold medals for six mountain experts ( Memento from August 3, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ) . Retrieved December 5, 2011.
  35. ↑ The mountaineering couple receives an award from the Alpine Club Berggeist. Alpine, November 17, 2010.
  36. ↑ Der Standard : President Fischer in the service of sport ( Memento of October 11, 2011 in the Internet Archive ). September 29, 2011. Retrieved June 15, 2012.
  37. ↑ National Geographic Germany: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is "Explorer of the Year" 2012 ( Memento from August 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ). June 14, 2012. Retrieved June 15, 2012.
personal data
SURNAME Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian extreme mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH December 13, 1970
PLACE OF BIRTH Kirchdorf an der Krems , Upper Austria