Alpamayo
| Alpamayo | ||
|---|---|---|
 Alpamayo, southwest face. |
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| height | 5947 m | |
| location | Huaylas Province , Ancash Region ( Peru ) | |
| Mountains | Cordillera Blanca , Western Peruvian Cordillera | |
| Dominance | 1.85 km → Quitaraju | |
| Notch height | 447 m ↓ (5500 m) | |
| Coordinates | 8 ° 52 '47 " S , 77 ° 39' 14" W | |
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| First ascent | June 19, 1957 by G. Hauser, B. Huhn, F. Knauss and H. Wiedmann | |
| Normal way | 60 ° steep ice tour (Ferrari route) | |
The 5947 m high Alpamayo is a mountain in the north of the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca .
The mountain was named after the village of Alpamayo ( Quechua Allpamayu: allpa = "earth"; mayu = "river": "earthy river"), while its local name in Ancash-Quechua is Shuyturahu ( shuytu = "thin" and "long" , "Pyramid"; rahu = "snow mountain", "glacier"). Because of its perfect ice pyramid, it is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. In 1966 the Alpamayo was chosen as the most beautiful mountain in the world in a photo competition in the magazine "Alpinismus".
Due to its remote and inaccessible location, this mountain, which resembles a regular trapezoid of ice and snow, only became known to mountaineers in Europe late. After three unsuccessful European expeditions (Austria 1936, Switzerland 1948, France-Belgium 1951), the first ascent took place on June 19, 1957. The German rope team Günter Hauser , Bernhard Huhn , Frieder Knauss and Horst Wiedmann reached the summit via the south ridge.
Today's normal route is the Ferrari route , which was only opened in 1975 in the southwest face. This was named after its first ascent Casimiro Ferrari , who climbed it in the summer of 1975 together with Danilo Borgonovo , Pinuccio Castelnovo , Pino Negri , Sandro Liati and Angelo Zoia . The original Ferrari route runs alongside the line now known as the Ferrari route and the alternative route French Direct . The latter was not first climbed by the French, but is called so because a French rope team died in it.
One of the first climbers (Günther Hauser) described his impression of the Alpamayo with the words:
“A dream mountain rises above the valleys of the northern Cordillera Blanca that only children who have never seen a mountain dare to draw. The Alpamayo is not a dream, but reality. From one side you can see it rising up as an even pyramid, the legs of which are hung with huge veils. The other face of the Alpamayo, the trapezoidal south-west wall, is even more beautiful: the wall was covered with a fine ribbed edge due to the interaction of the tropical sun, which burns down almost vertically at noon, and the rising, moist air masses from the jungle . From this side the mountain looks like a white cathedral "
See also
Web link
Individual evidence
- ↑ Francisco Carranza Romero in "MORIR ESCALANDO NEVADOS", archived on www.webcitation.org (accessed on November 14, 2009) ( Memento from October 25, 2009 on WebCite )
- ↑ César Morales Arnao: Quechua Names in the Northern Peruvian Andes and Their Meanings. In: American Alpine Journal 1966, pp. 63-74. (AAJO)
- ↑ John Matt: ALPAMAYO, 1966. The Alpine Journal, 1967, accessed on July 5, 2015 .
- ^ Günter Kast: Fascination Andes in fast motion. ALPIN - Das BergMagazin, April 20, 2015, accessed on July 5, 2015 .
- ↑ American Alpine Journal - 1976 (pdf) (accessed May 29, 2013)