Hirotaka Takeuchi (climber)

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Hirotaka "Hiro" Takeuchi ( Japanese 竹 内 洋 岳 , Takeuchi Hirotaka ; born January 8, 1971 ) is a Japanese mountaineer . Between 1995 and 2012 he climbed all 14 eight-thousanders . He is the first Japanese and the thirtieth person ever to do this. Three times - on Mount Everest , on K2 and on Makalu - he used bottled oxygen for support. He is a long-time friend of Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner , with whom he went on several expeditions.

Ascent of the eight-thousanders

Takeuchi climbed his first eight-thousander, the Makalu, as a 25-year-old student accompanied by the experienced Himalayan mountaineer Osamu Tanabe .

Takeuchi has been friends with Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner for many years. Together they have climbed several eight-thousanders. In 2004 they stood together on Annapurna and Hidden Peak . In 2005 the three climbed the Shishapangma south face. Immediately afterwards they tackled the north face of Mount Everest. However, on the evening of May 30th, Takeuchi showed clear signs of high altitude cerebral edema at an altitude of over 7000 meters , although he had acclimatized to the mountain air from the previous expedition . He suffered from a severe headache and spat blood. Kaltenbrunner, who is a trained nurse, injected him with the emergency medicine dexamethasone . The group broke off the climb and reached an advanced base camp on June 1 at 6,300 meters.

About a year later, Takeuchi, Kaltenbrunner and Dujmovits reach the summit of Kangchenjunga together with Veikka Gustafsson . Then Takeuchi, Kaltenbrunner and Dujmovits try to climb the Lhotse, but turn back on May 26th at around 8,400 meters because otherwise an overnight stay near the summit would have been necessary.

In 2007, Takeuchi took part in an expedition to Gasherbrum II by Amical Alpin , a tour operator led by Dujmovits at the time . During the ascent, Takeuchi and three other climbers in the group were hit by an avalanche. Takeuchi was torn down around three hundred meters, but survived seriously injured. It came to rest at an altitude of around 6,400 meters, near camp II. An attempt by the Pakistani army to fly him out from there by helicopter failed. The next morning, he was transported by other mountaineers to Camp I at around 5900 meters using a thrown stretcher. From there the next morning a helicopter of the Pakistani army flew him out to Skardu. Of the three other buried victims, the mountain guide Dirk Groeger survived; one died; the third is considered missing without any chance of survival being attributed to him. Takeuchi reached the top of the mountain a year later, still with titanium pins in his body.

In 2009 he, Kaltenbrunner and Dujmovits were successful on the Lhotse on the second attempt, this time together with David Göttler . Dujmovits has thus completed its 8000 series. Since the beginning of the friendship with Dujmovits and Kaltenbrunner, Takeuchi has cultivated a purist style. Among other things, he refrains from using climbing aids such as additional oxygen and height supports in order to secure the sporting recognition of the professional world: "If you do not climb the 14 8000er peaks without oxygen, Europeans will not respect you," says Takeuchi.

Tanabe, who led Takeuchi to his first eight-thousander, died in 2010 in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri, which was to become his tenth eight-thousander. Takeuchi climbed this mountain as the last eight-thousander in 2012 on the same route. "I want to find his body or something if I can ," Takeuchi said in an interview with the Japanese newspaper Asahi Shimbun .

Takeuchi climbed the eight-thousanders in the following order:

Private

Takeuchi is the father of two children.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski : Climbers who have ascended to the summits of all of the world's 14 mountains over 8000 meters. ( PDF , approx. 10.6  KB ) In: 8000ers.com. May 26, 2012, accessed May 27, 2012 .
  2. ↑ a b c d e Japanese want to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In: Focus Online . May 16, 2012. Retrieved May 28, 2012 .
  3. ↑ Michael Wulzinger: Queens of the death zone . In: Der Spiegel . No. 1/2006 , January 2, 2006, p. 101 ( article online on Spiegel Online [accessed May 29, 2012]).
  4. ↑ a b Ralf Dujmovits. In: bergfieber.de. Retrieved May 29, 2012 .
  5. ↑ Death drama in the Himalayas. In: Merkur Online . July 20, 2007. Retrieved May 29, 2012 .
  6. ↑ Hirotaka Takeuchi: 主 な 登山 履 歴: 登山 家 ・ 竹 内 洋 岳 公式 ブ ロ グ. (No longer available online.) In: Official Weblog. Archived from the original on May 27, 2012 ; Retrieved May 29, 2012 (Japanese). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / weblog.hochi.co.jp
  7. ↑ a b MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL. FACTS & FIGURES. ( PDF , approx. 8  MB ) Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal, June 2010, archived from the original on April 14, 2012 ; Retrieved on May 25, 2011 (English, 5th edition).
  8. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Everest. ( PDF , approx. 355 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  9. ^ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - K2. ( PDF , approx. 48 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  10. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Nanga Parbat. ( PDF , approx. 49 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  11. ↑ Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the summit of Annapurna 1. (No longer available online.) In: bergstieg.at. Archived from the original on August 5, 2004 ; accessed on May 29, 2012 (German). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.bergstieg.at
  12. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Gasherbrum I. ( PDF , approx. 57 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  13. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Shisha Pangma. ( PDF , approx. 55 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  14. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Kangchenjunga. ( PDF , approx. 42 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  15. ↑ Frank Gerbert: Dujmovits manages all 8000s. In: Focus Online . May 25, 2009. Retrieved May 28, 2012 .
  16. ↑ Stefan Nestler: Hiros No. 13. (No longer available online.) In: Internet blog of Deutsche Welle . November 15, 2011, archived from the original on May 28, 2012 ; Retrieved May 28, 2012 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / blogs.dw.de
  17. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Hirotaka Takeuchi finished the 14th In: 8000ers.com. May 26, 2012, accessed May 27, 2012 .
  18. ↑ Japanese mountaineer goes very high with Komperdell. (No longer available online.) In: Ispo Newsblog. April 30, 2012, formerly in the original ; Retrieved May 29, 2012 .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.ispo-newsblog.com  
personal data
SURNAME Takeuchi, Hirotaka
ALTERNATIVE NAMES 竹 内 洋 岳 (Japanese)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Japanese climber
DATE OF BIRTH January 8, 1971