Peter Habeler

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Peter Habeler

Peter Habeler (born July 22, 1942 in Mayrhofen , Zillertal ) is an Austrian extreme mountaineer who became famous in 1978 for the first ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen.

The Zillertal man achieved spectacular first ascents in the American Rocky Mountains , he was the first European to climb the Big Walls in Yosemite National Park in California (USA) and was the twelfth rope team to climb the Salathé Wall route in El-Capitan , together with Doug Scott - Southwest face, which at that time was one of the most difficult multi-pitch tours in the world. In 1969 he climbed for the first time with Reinhold Messner in a successful rope team .

For his numerous publications and his work in the mountains, Peter Habeler was appointed professor by the Austrian government in September 1999 .

Professional activities

The trained mountain guide, ski instructor and glass painter was an instructor in the Persian army in 1967 . From 1972 to 1979 he worked as a training officer in the Association of Austrian Mountain and Ski Guides. Then he was chairman of the Zillertal section. Habeler runs an alpine school in Mayrhofen.

successes

In his career, Habeler achieved, among other things, the ascent of the Yerupajá east face in the Peruvian Andes and the ascent of the Eiger north face in just under nine hours. In four hours he managed to climb the north face of the Matterhorn . In 1975 he was able to climb the Hidden Peak (8068 m) without additional oxygen in a twosome with Reinhold Messner . This was the first ascent of an eight-thousander in alpine style . His greatest success was in 1978 when he climbed Mount Everest , the highest mountain in the world, for the first time without additional oxygen , also together with Reinhold Messner. He also climbed other eight-thousanders, such as the Cho Oyu (8188 m), the Nanga Parbat (8125 m) and the Kangchenjunga (8598 m). Shortly before his 75th birthday, he climbed the north face of the Eiger again with David Lama and, at 74, was the oldest to have succeeded.

Social activities

Peter Habeler is an honorary member of the board of trustees of the Christian Publicists Working Group .

Honor

In 2020, a newly described species of butterfly was named by the discoverer Peter Huemer Habeler's Carnation Palpenfalter (Caryocolum habeleri). This was discovered in the Alps and only occurs in regions between southern France, Switzerland and southeast Germany. With Habeler and two other extraordinary alpinists, the name giver chose as namesake, who "also have a special relation to nature and species protection."

Publications

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Redaktionsbüro Harenberg: Knaurs Prominentenlexikon 1980. The personal data of celebrities from politics, economy, culture and society . With over 400 photos. Droemer Knaur, Munich / Zurich 1979, ISBN 3-426-07604-7 , Habeler, Peter, p. 155 .
  2. ↑ David Lama accompanied the Zillertal mountaineer idol through the legendary north face on alpin.de on April 13, 2017
  3. ↑ Board of Trustees and honorary members ( Memento from December 3, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
  4. ↑ Butterflies named Messner, Habeler and Lama orf.at, April 29, 2020, accessed April 29, 2020.
  5. ↑ Peter Huemer: Integrative revision of the Caryocolum schleichi species group - a striking example of a temporally changing species concept (Lepidoptera, Gelechiidae) Alpine Entomology 4 (April 23, 2020) pp. 39–63, accessed April 29, 2020 - https : //doi.org/10.3897/alpento.4.50703
personal data
SURNAME Habeler, Peter
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian extreme mountaineer and adventurer
DATE OF BIRTH July 22, 1942
PLACE OF BIRTH Mayrhofen , Zillertal