Kurt Diemberger

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Kurt Diemberger in March 2005 in the Urania (Vienna)

Kurt Diemberger (born March 16, 1932 in Villach ) is an Austrian mountaineer , filmmaker , photographer and author . Together with Hermann Buhl, he is one of only two people who have climbed two eight-thousanders for the first time.

Life

Diemberger spent his primary school days in Villach and then switched to the Realgymnasium in Salzburg with a subsequent course and Matura at the commercial academy. He then studied business administration at the University of World Trade in Vienna. He finished his studies in 1955 with a degree in business administration. Another university education followed, which he finished in 1962 with a diploma as a commercial teacher. From 1963 he worked for five years as a commercial teacher at the Tourism Academy in Salzburg. Diemberger had meanwhile also passed the mountain guide examination and became a professional alpinist at the end of the 1960s. In 1983 he and his mountain partner Julie Tullis founded the highest film team in the world , which produced the film K2 - Traum und Schicksal , among others . The film was awarded the golden gentian in 1989 at the oldest festival for mountain films, the Trento Film Festival .

Alps

With Herbert Knapp and Hannes Unterweger, he managed to climb the foam roller on September 22, 1956 ( summit wedge of the Königspitze north face), whereby Kurt Diemberger only climbed the foam roller together with his comrades, as he crossed in from the summit ridge and in the lower third of the foam roller met the comrades who climbed the entire north face including the foam roll that day. A week earlier, Diemberger and Albert Morocutti had climbed the north face to the start of the foam roll. The first ascent of the foam roller was presented differently by the parties involved and later led to a scandal.

Between 1956 and 1958 he and his climbing partner Wolfgang Stefan climbed the three great north faces of the Alps : Eiger north face , Matterhorn north face and the Walker pillar of the Grandes Jorasses north face. In 1958, he and Franz Lindner climbed the entire Peuterey ridge to Mont Blanc .

Himalayas

On June 9, 1957, Diemberger, together with Fritz Wintersteller , Hermann Buhl and Marcus Schmuck, made the first ascent of Broad Peak ( 8051  m ).

On May 13, 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri ( 8167  m ) followed together with Nawang Dorje , Ernst Forrer , Albin Schelbert , Peter Diener and Nyima Dorje . Since Hermann Buhl died in 1957, Diemberger is the only living first to climb two eight-thousanders . Gyalzen Norbu is also often mentioned as the first to climb two eight-thousanders, but he was on the Makalu one day after the first climbers and is therefore not one of the first to climb.

In 1967 the first ascent of the 7338  m high Tirich Mir IV in the Hindu Kush followed via the north-west face in alpine style.

In 1978 he was successful as a cameraman under Pierre Mazeaud , first on May 21 on Makalu and later on October 15 on Mount Everest . On August 4, 1979, he reached the summit of Gasherbrum II as part of an expedition that included Reinhard Karl , Hilmar Sturm and Hanns Schell , among others . Between 1982 and 1986 he was in the Karakoram several times - several times on K2 (including an attempt on the K2 north ridge). In 1984 he stood on the summit of Broad Peak again, this time with his mountain partner Julie Tullis. With Tullis he finally reached the summit of K2 on August 4, 1986. Tullis died of exhaustion on the descent from K2 during a storm that lasted several days in which other climbers were killed. Since the early 1980s, he has been on several expeditions to Shaksgam, China's Xinjiang Autonomous Region . In 2000 he again climbed the Cotopaxi, a notable summit, albeit not an 8000er.

Awards (excerpt)

  • 1957: Golden sports badge of the State of Salzburg on the occasion of his first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957
  • 1981: Emmy ; for the film documentation of the attempt to climb the Everest east face
  • 1989: Trient: ITAS Prize for K2 - Dream and Fate for the best mountain book and for the cinematic implementation of the same topic the golden gentian for the best mountain film; Golden Merit Badge of the State of Salzburg
  • 2006: Gold Medal for Services to the Republic of Austria
  • 2013: Diemberger was honored with the mountaineering award of the Piolet d'Or in 2013 for his extraordinary alpine life's work .

literature

Works

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. a b Thomas Neuhold: An eight-thousander legend turns 80 . In: The Standard . March 12, 2012. Retrieved March 12, 2012.
  2. a b c d Uli Auffermann: Decision in the wall . Schall Verlag, 2010, ISBN 978-3-900533-62-5 , p. 152 f .
  3. a b c d e Kurt Diemberger: DVD K2 - Dream and Fate . Screen power.
  4. ^ Website Bergleben.de, portrait of Kurt Diemberger
  5. Website mountainfuture.at with a portrait of Kurt Diemberger ( Memento of the original from September 14, 2009 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.mountainfuture.at
  6. ^ Website oe1.orf.at
  7. ^ Website International Mountain Summit South Tyrol
  8. ^ Website Google Books, from The American Alpine Journal, Volume 22, p. 319 (viewed: January 16, 2012)
  9. First ascent of the foam roller: The dispute continues. In: The Vinschger. 19/2006.
  10. ^ Website Herrligkoffer Foundation: "German-French Mount Everest Expedition, 1978" ( Memento of the original from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.herrligkoffer-stiftung.de
  11. Reinhard Karl: Mountain experience: time to breathe . Bruckmann Verlag, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-7654-5152-2 , p. 97 .
  12. Kurt Diemberger . In: bergfieber.de. Retrieved April 18, 2012.
  13. ^ Kurt Diemberger compact . In: Alpin , March 14, 2012. Retrieved April 18, 2012.
  14. 2013 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement: Kurt Diemberger. (URL) (No longer available online.) Pioletsdor.com, archived from the original on February 24, 2016 ; accessed on February 18, 2013 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.pioletsdor.com