Marcus jewelry

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Marcus Schmuck (born April 18, 1925 in Maria Alm am Steinernen Meer , † August 21, 2005 in Salzburg ) was an Austrian mountaineer and leader of the Austrian Karakoram expedition, who on June 9, 1957, made the first ascent of the 8,051 meter high Broad Peak in today's Pakistan succeeded.

Life

Marcus Schmuck became known through numerous first ascents of the highest mountains in the world. He has carried out 74 expeditions in 56 years; even at the age of eighty he was still an active alpinist.

The Austrian Karakoram expedition deserves particular attention because, with Broad Peak, an eight-thousander was first climbed without the use of bottled oxygen and on "siege alpinism". All participants, Fritz Wintersteller , Hermann Buhl , Kurt Diemberger and expedition leader Marcus Schmuck reached the summit on the same day. Ten days later, Schmuck and Wintersteller managed the first ascent of the neighboring Skil Brum (7410 m) within 53 hours in pure alpine style .

In 1968 Marcus Schmuck was a location scout in Salzburg and in the Salzkammergut for the British - US American agents - war film Agents die lonely with Richard Burton and Clint Eastwood .

Marcus Schmuck cared for his wife, who was in a vegetative state , until his death . He died of a heart attack in his home in Salzburg .

First ascents

literature

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Jewelry, marcus
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH April 18, 1925
PLACE OF BIRTH Maria Alm at the Stone Sea
DATE OF DEATH August 21, 2005
Place of death Salzburg