Pear horn

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Pear horn
Birnhorn from the Passauer Hütte

Birnhorn from the Passauer Hütte

height 2634  m above sea level A.
location Salzburg , Austria
Mountains Leoganger Steinberge , Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge
Dominance 15.5 km →  Schönfeldspitze
Notch height 1665 m ↓  Pass Grießen
Coordinates 47 ° 28 '29 "  N , 12 ° 44' 1"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 28 '29 "  N , 12 ° 44' 1"  E
Birnhorn (State of Salzburg)
Pear horn
rock Banked Dachstein limestone
Age of the rock Norium - Rhaetium
First ascent September 2, 1831 by Peter Karl Thurwieser with guide Bartholomäus Stachelsberger (tourist)
Normal way Hofersteig ( I )
Birnhorn south face from the Ullach valley

Birnhorn south face from the Ullach valley

Summit construction from the north

Summit construction from the north

pd5
Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1
Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD2

The pear horn is with a height of 2634  m above sea level. A. the highest mountain of the Leogang Steinberge in Salzburg's Pinzgau and the highest elevation of the Saalforste , located in the Fallck district on the border of the forest districts of Grub (east) and Nebelsberg (west). It is one of the 30 most prominent mountains in the Alps . Its approximately 1400 m high, largely dolomite south face above Leogang is one of the highest rock faces in the Eastern Alps and is often compared to the Watzmann east face. It was first climbed on October 1, 1900 by Josef Oberlader and Karl Mayrhofer . Its pyramid-shaped summit structure made of thickly banked Dachstein limestone gives the Birnhorn a characteristic appearance.

Location and structure

The Birnhorn summit rises in the central area of ​​the main ridge of the Leoganger Steinberger in the municipality of Weißbach bei Lofer and Leogang . The south face slopes down to the Leogang valley , at its foot there is the karst spring Birnbachloch (around 1270  m ). The base of the pear horn consists of the Werfen formation , alpine red sandstone and Val Gardena formation . A narrow strip of Gutenstein formation forms the transition to the massive Ramsaudolomit , which builds up the lower half of the Birnhorn south wall. In the upper part, this merges into main dolomite and finally into thick-banked Dachstein limestone . To the north, the Birnhorn sends out a striking ridge that runs over the Kuchelnieder ( 2437  m ) notch over the Kuchelhorn ( 2507  m ) to the Dürrkarhorn ( 2286  m ) and separates the large, karstified plateaus of Ebersbergkar in the west and Hochgrub in the east. In the east ridge of the Birnhorn there is a large, striking rock gate, the Melkerloch . The ridge goes over to the summit of the Hochzint ( 2246  m ) and finally descends to the Mittagsscharte (around 2020  m ) with the Passauer Hütte .

Tourist development

In 1825, surveyors set up a trigonometric signal on the summit of the Birnhorn, which was previously only visited by locals. Peter Karl Thurwieser was the first tourist to climb the mountain on September 2, 1831 with the guide Bartholomäus Stachelsberger. The ascent led them initially from the Niedergrubalm to the Kuchelhorn, which they tried in vain to climb over the east ridge and the north ridge. After bypassing the Kuchelhorn, the two of them reached the Kuchelnieder, from which they now reached the summit of the Birnhorn. On his second ascent of the Birnhorn summit, Peter Karl Thurwieser was accompanied by Friedrich zu Schwarzenberg in 1834 . The director of the local nickel mining and painter Michael Hofer (1834–1916) earned special services in the tourist development . He was the first tourist to reach the Birnhorn summit from the Mittagsscharte via the Melkerloch and the belt system on the upper south face. In 1877 Hofer published a report on this climb, which he regularly climbed, in the magazine of the German and Austrian Alpine Club and had a climb partially built at his own expense. In 1880, the Pinzgau Section completed the marked trail and today's most popular ascent to the Birnhorn.

On October 1, 1900, Josef Oberlader , commonly known as Priesteregger , from Leogang and Karl Mayrhofer , the long-time keeper of the Passau hut, managed to climb the Birnhorn south face for the first time in 9 hours. Your route ran in the area of ​​the Hochbrettgraben and is now rated III + . As early as 1901 by Oberlader and Erich König and in 1907 by Albin Rössel , new, more difficult climbs were opened through the south face. A number of challenging climbing routes now lead through the south face. Completely with bolts secured is 2012 erstbegangene "Pinzgawurm" ( VI +, A0 ), with 45 pitches one of the longest climbing route in the northern Alps.

Climbs

The Passauer Hütte on the edge of the Hochgrub is the ideal starting point for climbing the Birnhorn . From here the Hofersteig runs through the Melkerloch and over ribbons through the uppermost part of the south face , as well as the other normal route over the Kuchelnieder in two hours to the summit. Both paths require absolute surefootedness and a head for heights . They are marked and some have step aids. A few ropes are also stretched around the Kuchelnieder area. Below the Kuchelnieder, a via ferrata (difficulty B) has now been created, which now offers the best security via a guide slightly to the north . The paths themselves still require easy climbing ( I ). The ascent through the Ebersberger Kar to the Kuchelnieder is a popular ski tour in snowy winters .

literature

Web links

Commons : Birnhorn  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  2. ^ Geological map of the Republic of Austria 1: 50,000, published by the Federal Geological Institute , Vienna 1995, sheet 123 Ybbsitz (PDF; 2.6 MB)