Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Art supplement in the magazine in the year 1898, color lithograph after a painting by Edward Theodore Compton of Pizzo Tresero

The magazine of the German and Austrian Alpine Club was a yearbook of the German and Austrian Alpine Club that was published in 1872 after the merger of the Alpine clubs . It emerged from the yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , first published in 1865 , and the magazine of the German Alpine Club , which appeared from 1870 to 72 . In contrast to the Mittheilungen of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , a periodical publication for news with current reference and club affairs published by Theodor Petersen since 1875, the journal described the research and development of the mountains on a mostly high scientific level. Authors were usually the leading scientists and alpinists of the time. Each volume was accompanied by a map of a mountain group that was interesting from an alpine perspective. The maps of the Alpine Club reflected the most advanced level of cartography and are still used today as a reference with their wealth of detail on a large scale (1: 25,000). For decades, Richard Finsterwalder and then his nephew Rüdiger were in charge of producing the Alpine Club card .

First edition of the magazine from 1872 on the occasion of the merger of DAV and ÖAV. The picture shows the Dreiherrenspitze rotated 90 ° to the left

history

Title page of the first ÖAV yearbook from 1865. With a drawing of the overgrown Großvenediger summit by Friedrich Simony
Special map of the Eastern Alps section Timbler Joch Map supplement from 1876 for the Timmelsjoch
Oetzthaler Alps east of the Similaun Panorama after a drawing by Theodor Petersen, 1872

Before the two Alpine clubs merged, the OeAV published its yearbook in Vienna from 1865 to 1873, which in turn had the OeAV 's publications as a forerunner. The editor was Johann August Edmund Mojsisovics von Mojsvár , one of the founders of the OeAV. The volumes were richly furnished and had numerous so-called art supplements , some of them colored , which offered readers realistic views of the mountain landscape. The DAV magazine appeared from 1870 to 1873, edited by Karl Haushofer in Munich, with a similar layout. With the merger of the two associations in 1873, this magazine was published a year earlier as an edition identical to the Austrian yearbook. Since then, the publication has been called the Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, or from volume 26 published in 1895, the Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association and was published until 1937, after the annexation of Austria from 1938 to 1942 as a journal of the German Alpine Association . The editors according to Karl Haushofer were Theodor Trautwein from 1887, Johannes Emmer from 1889, Heinrich Heß from 1895 , Hanns Barth from 1920 and Josef Julius Schätz from 1939 to 1942.

Towards the end of the First World War and in 1942 during the Second World War , the volumes were no longer published in linen binding, but only in paperback, printed on poor paper and with a significantly smaller volume than the previous editions. After the Second World War, the DAV was initially banned by the Allies and could only be reconstituted in 1952. The OeAV was able to be re-founded in 1945, as it was considered politically unencumbered, and in 1949 published its first Alpine Club yearbook after the war with 14 essays and articles. The DAV published its first yearbook in 1951 and called it the bridging volume 1943-1951 . From 1970 onwards, the two clubs finally published a joint Alpine Club yearbook again , for which an editorial team from the DAV and one from the ÖAV were alternately responsible. From 1981 the hyphen was dropped in the title. In the double year 1982/83 the Alpine Association South Tyrol (AVS) appeared for the first time in Bolzano as co-editor. Since 1985, the Alpine Club yearbook has had the addition mountain with the respective year and the subtitle magazine volume 135 (for the year 2011).

Content in the 19th century

In the first few years the focus was not only on biological, geographical and geological research into the mountains, but also on the development of the mountains. Reports on exploration and surveying of the land surface for accurate mapping also played an important role as a prerequisite for further research. Over the years, with increasing scientific knowledge, pure tour descriptions and first ascents came to the fore. The area was basically limited to the Eastern Alps, the traditional work area of ​​the clubs, but later reports of trips overseas appeared again and again. Eduard Richter went a step beyond the purely alpine in 1875 with an article on the Tyrolean popular uprising of 1809. In 1875, a report appeared for the first time about a mountain range outside the Alps, the High Tatras . This was followed by mountain medicine and folklore articles about the mountain peoples. In 1877 an art review appeared about a picture by the then famous landscape painter Albert Emil Kirchner . In 1884 a woman wrote an article in the magazine for the first time. Hermine Tauscher-Geduly from Pressburg published a multi-page report of her ascent of the Trafoier ice wall . At the end of the 19th century, when the Alps had been largely explored, the magazine first published reports from overseas. Albrecht Penck reported on the Illivillewaet glacier in the North American Selkirk Mountains in 1898 . Willi Rickmer Rickmers contributed a report on the Ushba in the Caucasus . This was followed in 1899 by an article on the Ararat , in 1900 on the Alps of North America , in 1904 on the Argentine Cordillera and the report on an expedition to K2 by Heinrich Pfannl .

20th century

In the 20th century, the magazine was increasingly dominated by large expeditions and world trips, but the European mountains were still the main focus. In 1908, Saxon Switzerland was discovered as a climbing area in the magazine. Gustav Adolf Kuhfahl stated that the desire to mountaineering in Germany has become more and more common property of broader groups of the people. From this time on the climbers found their place in the volumes of the magazine. The author Margarethe Grosse quotes words from Friedrich Schiller's drama Maria Stuart in 1911 in her essay on mountain air travel in a free balloon and recommends wearing furs and padding the basket with hay, as these balloon rides reach heights of over 5000 meters and therefore very low temperatures prevail. In 1913, Wilhelm Steinitzer published his first report on mountain trips in the Japanese Alps . In the same year, the magazine published an extensive article on nature conservation by Adolf von Guttenberg , after a first early report on the importance of the mountain forest was published in 1872 by a Ministerial Secretary Bazing. In 1914 Willi Rickmer Rickmers reported in detail about a Pamir research trip in 1913, the first company outside the Alps to be publicly funded from general association funds.

First World War

From 1915, with the beginning of the mountain war , some things changed in the magazine. The font was from the beginning a Roman type , from 1915 to set a Gothic type used. In addition, the volume of the volumes decreased due to the war. In 1914 it was over 350 pages, in 1915 this was 100 pages less. The 1917 edition only had about 200 pages. In terms of content, little changed at first. In 1916 the first article appeared about the war, which the then well-known author for local novels Gustav Renker described as the desired accounting . In 1917, the nationalist Innsbruck university professor Michael Mayr wrote an essay on the development of national conditions in Welschtirol , in which he called for a strong and down-to-earth Germanness for Trentino , then known as Welschtirol . In the last year of the war the magazine appeared with an article by J. Aichinger with the title: The Julian and Carnic Alps in War . The last sentences of the text read: The borders of Carinthia have long been freed from the enemy [...]. When general peace is restored, many will come [to] where our brave warriors have waged a double battle, against an insidious enemy and against overwhelming forces of nature. May you then remember with gratitude those who victoriously passed this battle [...] .

Interwar period

The First World War was not discussed or commented on in the magazine. Only episodes, heroic deeds of their own armed forces and degradation of opposing Italians found their way into the once scientifically reputable medium of the Alpine Club. The effects of the 1919 Treaty of Saint-Germain with the loss of South Tyrol could not be overlooked. For example, H. Menger wrote in the 1919 festival magazine on the 50th anniversary of the DOeAV: The fate of our country has now been decided. The voices that sounded everywhere, as far as the German tongue sounds, for the unity of Tyrol, were spoken in the wind, German South Tyrol with the jewel of the Alps, the Dolomites, was awarded to the traitor. Otherwise, open political views of the authors are rarely found, which is in line with the statutes of the Alpine Club. Fritz Andrä von Fischer-Poturzyn described details of the warfare in 1921 in his article entitled Blasted Summits , in which the blasting of the Col di Lana is documented in detail. In 1922 the magazine had only 100 pages, but in 1924 it recovered, a first report on Mount Everest by the Jena geographer GW von Zahn was published. The volume contained an article from South America from 1927. Rudolf Dienst described mountain trips in Bolivia , which he called the South American Tibet . After the Alps had been almost completely explored in the opinion of the Alpine Association, so-called customer trips to new areas began to be organized. The DOeAV saw its new task in conquering and exploring foreign high mountains . The first major expedition led to the Pamirs in Central Asia as early as 1913 . But that was a single venture, and also controversial because many members in the sections viewed these activities with skepticism, especially in financial terms. The 1929 magazine reflected these new interests of the DOeAV. Hans Pfann and Carl Troll published an extensive report on the Andean expedition of 1928. In the same year, Willi Rickmer Rickmers and Philipp Borchers were on an expedition in the Alai-Pamir region to explore the Fedchenko Glacier , among other things . At that time there was a spirit of change in the Alpine Club. Borchers introduced his essay with the optimistic words of Joseph von Eichendorff : Whom God wants to show real favor, he sends him out into the wide world. In 1929 a trip to the Himalayas took place with significant participation by the DOeAV . Paul Bauer , who later became the National Socialist sports official, was in charge of the trip . He began his report on the attempt to climb Kangchenjunga with the words: [...] Superfluous and useless people, including ten former Everest people, were released. We kept 17 Sherpas and Buthias. Also in 1930 people drove to the Himalayas to reach summits. The same volume from 1931 also reports on a Caucasus tour that took place in 1929 and aimed, among other things, at maintaining stunted contacts with Russian mountaineers since the war. Willy Merkl , the alpinist who died on Nanga Parbat in 1934 , wrote in his article on the role of women in the Caucasus that a Tatar who would love to marry would have to pay 1000 rubles for a bride, it is actually not surprising that a woman there is so high in weight Price stands. Even if the woman is little respected by almost all the peoples of the Caucasus, she is still considered a workhorse and has to do all heavy work alone, while the Lord of creation spends most of his days doing nothing. The anecdotal, like the scientific, had its place in the journal. From 1932 on, interest shifted to Nanga Parbat. By 1939 five Nanga Parbat expeditions had been carried out. Over the Himalayan Expedition 1932 Willy Merkl wrote a report for the year 1933, the magazine that the parenthesis since 1932 yearbook wore. A first report on the New Zealand Alps was provided by Franz Malcher in 1934, who was there at the beginning of 1914. The second Nanga Parbat expedition was described by Fritz Bechtold in 1935. Right at the beginning of his article, he noted the fateful participation of the German people in the Nanga Parbat expedition in 1934 , a myth was born. This venture also failed. Merkl and eight of eleven Sherpas were killed.

1938 to 1942 - annexation of Austria and World War II

In 1938 the reference to the OeAV disappeared from the title page of the magazine with the so-called " Gleichschaltung" of the Alpine associations. Leopold Landl from Vienna wrote about river hiking in a folding boat and Karl Schmitt gave a lecture on summit trips in the Arctic . Everything still looked normal in the Alpine Club. But the 1939 edition had a foreword on page 1 by Arthur Seyß-Inquart , a war criminal who was sentenced to death in 1946 and the new leader of the Alpine Club . In his text entitled The Order , he made it clear in which direction alpinism had to go after the annexation of Austria. He describes the political mission of the Alpine Club as follows: "The German people will become a people of mountaineers" , and the Alpine Club should train the whole people and educate them in an ideological way . The text is illustrated by a linocut by the Bozen draftsman Heini (Heinz) Gschwendt: a gigantic eagle on a swastika rising behind a mountain backdrop , framed in a wreath of oak leaves. The reserve officer and Fritz-Dietlof Graf von der Schulenburg from Berlin, who was executed as a resistance fighter in 1944, explains, as chairman of the Reichsdeutscher Sectionsverband in the German Alpine Association, the coordination of Alpine associations since March 14, 1938. Meinhart Sild, Seyß-Inquart's personal advisor for the DAV since 1938 , describes in a seemingly militant contribution ( Der neue Weg ) the new function of the DAV: [...] its relationship to the SS and the Wehrmacht, in which mountaineering as a means of team and leader training and military training has immediate effect. The 1940 edition reported on modern skiing with lifts, the extraction of mountain pine oil in Tyrol and, as the main topic, a trip to the Sikkim Himalayas , which had the purpose of attacking the Tent Peak, the Twins and the Nepal Peak , such as Ernst Grob wrote. Only three participants, Grob, Herbert Paidar and Ludwig Schmaderer, set off with 70 porters . The expedition was a success, the first ascent of the tent peak was successful. In 1941 the yearbook (magazine) [sic!] [...] was published, contrary to expectations, for reasons related to the war, only to a limited extent [...] without the usual card insert. A voucher was enclosed, which promised a mark discount on the next issue in 1942. Apparently the Alpine Club believed in a short war. In the 1941 edition there were articles about an Andean excursion to Peru in 1939, Erika Hubatschek reported on the mows of mountain farmers and Karl Sinhart wrote about the fine arts in Carinthia . Many authors were at war, the magazine had to restrict itself. The end came in 1942. The last edition of the traditional journal of the Alpine Club appeared on poor paper, with significantly fewer photographs, but with the supplement to the Alpenverein map of the Granatspitzgruppe that had been promised a year earlier . It contained almost nothing but propaganda. The racial hygienist Ignaz Anton Kaup recognizes a Homo alpinus in a contribution about the Alpine inhabitants in the change of the racial system : With the child- happy Germanic mountain farmers there is no creeping in and infiltration of the eastern road along the alpine ridge . Mountaineer and a soldier called the National Socialist writer and teacher Karl Springenschmid his preface: mountaineers and soldiers [...] are figures that our people come from the same combative nature. Fight is their element. He ends his article with the words: One day, when the fires of victory burn on the mountains as the silent witnesses of the German heroic struggle, the German soldier will return to the mountains of his homeland.

Authors (selection)

The regular authors of the magazine in the 19th century were primarily alpinists who wanted to explore the Alps out of scientific interest and who had the opportunity to publish their findings in the magazine. However, many of them also described their tourist ascents and first ascents:

In the 20th century, new authors wrote about their great trips outside Europe or about special sporting achievements:

Web links

Wikisource: Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club  - sources and full texts
Commons : Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association  - collection of images, videos and audio files
  • The Austrian National Library publishes the editions of the journal from 1872 to 1937 on its website (ANNO) .
  • The library of the German Alpine Club also publishes the issues of the magazine from 1869 to the current issue on its website .

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Johannes Emmer: Register for the club publications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club . Volume 1: 1863-1905 . Innsbruck 1906, OBV , p. 3 f.
  2. ^ Journal of the German Alpine Club , Volume 73, Munich 1942
  3. ^ Journal , Volume VI, Munich 1875, 1st section p. 166 ff. And 2nd section p. 147 ff.
  4. ^ Journal , Volume VII, Munich 1877, pp. 145 f.
  5. ^ Journal , Volume XV, Salzburg 1884, pp. 87 ff.
  6. ^ Journal , Volume XXIX, Munich 1898, pp. 55 ff. And p. 182 ff.
  7. ^ Journal , Volume XXXIX, Munich 1908, p. 177 ff.
  8. ^ Journal , Volume XLII, Munich 1911, pp. 1 ff.
  9. ^ Journal , Volume XLIV, Vienna 1913, pp. 141 ff. And p. 54 ff.
  10. ^ Journal , Volume III, Munich 1872, 1st section, p. 319 ff
  11. ^ Journal , Volume XLV, Vienna 1914, pp. 1 ff. And p. 52 ff.
  12. ↑ Gustav Renker:  The war in the mountains. In:  Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , year 1916, Volume 47, pp. 219–236. (Online at ANNO ). Template: ANNO / Maintenance / oav.
  13. ^ Journal , Volume 48, Vienna 1917, p. 49 ff.
  14. ^ Journal , Volume 49, Vienna 1918, p. 178 ff.
  15. ^ Journal , Volume 52, Munich 1921, pp. 28 ff.
  16. ^ Journal , Volume 55, Munich 1924, pp. 149 ff.
  17. ^ Journal , Volume 58, Munich 1927, pp. 91 ff.
  18. ↑ Journal , Volume 60, Innsbruck 1929, pp. 1. ff., Pp. 59 ff. And p. 64 ff.
  19. ^ Journal , Volume 61, Innsbruck 1930, pp. 1 ff.
  20. ↑ Journal , Volume 62, Innsbruck 1931, p. 47 ff. And p. 88 ff.
  21. ^ Journal (year book) , Volume 65, Stuttgart 1934, p. 212 ff.
  22. ^ Journal (year book) , Volume 66, Stuttgart 1935, pp. 1 ff.
  23. ^ Journal of the German Alpine Association , Volume 69, Bruckmann Munich and Vienna 1938, p. 41 ff. And p. 202 ff.
  24. ^ Journal of the German Alpine Association , Volume 70, Munich 1939, pp. 1 f., P. 5 ff. And p. 7 ff.
  25. ^ Ernst Grob: Germans in the Sikkim Himalayas 1939. (Ernst Grob, Herbert Paida and Ludwig Schmaderer) . In: Josef Julius Schätz (Red.): Journal of the German Alpine Club (year book) , Volume 71, Munich 1940, pp. 43–53. (Online at ALO ).
  26. ^ Journal of the German Alpine Association , Volume 73, Munich 1942, pp. 31 ff. And p. XI, ff.