Großvenediger from the west
|location||Salzburg and Tyrol , Austria|
|Dominance||26 km → Glocknerwand|
|Notch height||1197 m ↓ Felber Tauern|
|First ascent||September 3, 1841 by Anton von Ruthner , Ignaz von Kürsinger a . a., led by Josef Schwab|
|Normal way||from the Neue Prager Hütte via Schlatenkees and the east flank, from the Kürsingerhütte via the Venedigerscharte from the north or from the Defreggerhaus via the Rainertörl from the south|
|particularities||Highest mountain in Salzburg and the Venediger group|
Großvenediger from the south
The Großvenediger is at a height of Venediger group in the Hohe Tauern and Salzburg . It is located directly on the main Alpine ridge on the border between East Tyrol and Salzburg. Its appearance is characterized by its strong glaciation on all sides , including Schlatenkees and Obersulzbachkees , with the individual glaciers being separated by a total of four extremely distinctive ridges. In the course of the first ascent, Ignaz von Kürsinger coined the term world-old majesty . In the course of the glacier retreat of the past few decades, the summit itself has already been completely gutted and has lost such a significant amount of height that it was measured at in the 1980s .the highest mountain in the
The name Großvenediger was first mentioned in 1797 in a record of a border inspection. Until then had Berg as supporters head been designated. About the origin of the name are unclear, and it be by pulling through dealers, the Venetians , derive. The view as far as Venice is an often-mentioned but refuted theory.
The name is stressed on the first or third syllable.
The first attempt at ascent was made by Paul Rohrgger before 1828. He reached the Venice Scharte from the Untersulzbachtal . On August 9, 1828, an expedition of 17 men, including Archduke Johann , failed due to an avalanche in an attempt to reach the summit .
It was only 40 years after the first ascent of the Großglockner that a group led by Josef Schwab (called Hausstetter Sepp) reached the summit on September 3, 1841 . Among others, Anton Ruthner and Josef Lasser von Zollheim (who had planned the ascent at the beginning of 1841), Otto von Gravenegg , Ignaz von Kürsinger and the seventy-year-old Paul Rohrgger († around 1855), who led Archduke Johann in 1828 and into them, were there the avalanche ending the expedition had come. The starting point for the ascent was Neukirchen am Großvenediger . The path led through the Obersulzbachtal and over the Stierlahnerwand. Of the 40 men involved, 24 reached the summit, the others stayed behind because of fatigue. Kürsinger, who played a key role in the expedition, also gave the name of ancient majesty .
Normal routes to the summit
The Großvenediger can be climbed on three different normal routes (north ascent, east ascent and south ascent).
Of the three different climbs, this is one of the least traveled routes. Compared to the other two normal routes, you don't start here from Tyrol, but from the state of Salzburg. The starting point is the Kürsingerhütte and the ascent takes place from Sulzau via the Berndlm and Postalm .
The ascent from this route takes about 8 hours and you cover almost 2,200 meters in altitude, the descent can be done in 4 hours without breaks. This is an easy to moderately difficult high alpine tour.
The starting point here is the Matreier Tauernhaus . From there you walk on a gravel road to Innergschlöß to the Venedigerhaus ( ). After half an hour towards the head of the valley , there is a steep and very strenuous ascent. It then continues over serpentines to the New Prager Hut ( ). This is followed by the crossing of the glacier in a westerly direction, where special care is required due to the crevasses . At the end, a very steep section leads up to the summit ridge, which narrows more and more over time.
The ascent from Defreggerhaus is considered to be one of the easiest, although the danger of crevasses and the transition on the narrow ridge to the summit should not be underestimated. Due to the rather "easy" ascent, this is one of the most popular of the three possible normal routes.
The starting point is the Defreggerhaus, from there it goes north along the moraine ridge up to the Mullwitzaderl. This is followed by a sloping ascent towards the Rainertörl and then further south below the Rainerhorn, a little steeper to the Rainertörl ( ). Then the path leads past the acoustic fog bar towards the northwest, gently rising towards the steep upswing from the Venediger and finally up to the broad shoulder and the narrow ridge to the summit.
All normal ascents on the Großvenediger are technically not difficult, but they are high-altitude tours that lead over crevice-rich glacier terrain. Depending on the conditions, the crevices are sometimes difficult to see and also pose a danger on ski tours .
The rocks that make up the Großvenediger were created by intense magmatism that took place during the decay of the Variscan orogen . The resulting granitoids can be found in the Black Forest and the Großvenediger , among others . Due to the intensive deformation during the formation of the Alps , granite gneisses were created from the granitoids , the age of which is stated to be around 340 to 310 million years.
- Anton von Ruthner: The first ascent of the Großvenediger on September 3, 1841 . In: -: Mountain and Glacier Travel in the Austrian High Alps . Gerold, Vienna 1864, OBV , pp. 289-313. - Full text online .
- Ferdinand Löwl: The Gross-Venediger . in: Yearbook of the Imperial and Royal Geological Institute, vol. 44, Vienna 1895, pp. 515–532 ( digitized version ; PDF; 1.2 MB)
- Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Großvenediger on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- Eberhard Jurgalski : Complete table of summits in the Alps separated by 590 meters of re-ascent , December 12, 2008.
- Mountain rescue Neukirchen: Großvenediger: summit cross "saved"
- Austrian dictionary school edition . 43rd edition. Vienna, öbv 2016, ISBN 978-3-209-08513-9 , p. 304 .
- Willi End: Venediger Group . Alpine Club Guide. 5th edition. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2006, p. 232 .
- MyBaseCamp. Retrieved April 10, 2017 .
- MyBaseCamp. Retrieved April 10, 2017 .
- Ralf Schuster, Kurt Stüwe: The geology of the Alps in time lapse . In: Naturwissenschaftlicher Verein für Steiermark (Hrsg.): Messages of the Naturwissenschaftlicher Verein für Steiermark . tape 140 . Graz 2010, p. 5-21 .