Piz Buin
| Piz Buin | ||
|---|---|---|
 Großer (left) and Kleiner Piz Buin, view from the Ochsental |
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| height | 3312 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Vorarlberg , Austria and Graubünden , Switzerland | |
| Mountains | Silvretta | |
| Dominance | 6.1 km → Piz Linard | |
| Notch height | 544 m ↓ Futschölpass | |
| Coordinates , ( CH ) | 46 ° 50 '39 " N , 10 ° 7' 6" O ( 804 361 / 191 604 ) | |
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| First ascent | July 14, 1865 | |
| Normal way | Alpine tour | |
| particularities | Highest mountain in Vorarlberg | |
The Piz Buin ( ), more precisely: Großer Piz Buin (Grisons Romansh: Piz Buin Grond ), on the border between Austria and Switzerland, is at 3312 m above sea level. A. the third highest mountain in the Silvretta and the highest in the Austrian state of Vorarlberg .
Location and surroundings
As part of the Silvretta main ridge, the mountain marks the border between Vorarlberg and the Swiss canton of Graubünden , which runs in a west-east direction over the summit . To the west, separated by the Buinlücke crossing , is the Kleine Piz Buin , also known as Piz Buin Pitschen ( 3255 m ) on some maps . The Ochsentaler Glacier stretches to the north and west of the Großer Piz Buin, and to the northeast is the Vermunt Glacier, separated from the Ochsentaler Glacier by the Wiesbadner Grätle . These two glaciers located on Austrian territory form the origin of the Ill , which flows north through the Ochsental to the Silvretta reservoir in Vermunt on the Bielerhöhe . In the south of the Vermunt Glacier, the 2797 m high Vermunt Pass forms the transition into the Swiss Val Tuoi , a side valley of the Lower Engadine , which extends in the south of the Piz Buin to Guarda and belongs to the municipality of Scuol .
The Piz Buin in the Silvretta is only surpassed in height by the huge pyramid of Piz Linard ( 3410 m ) and the Fluchthorn ( 3399 m ).
Geology and flora
Like its neighboring mountains, the Piz Buin consists of crystalline rock from the Silvretta ceiling, which is mainly made up of gneiss . Unlike the higher peaks Piz Linard and Fluchthorn mainly of hornblende consist gneisses (and -schiefern), the Piz Buin is of lighter granite - and eyes gneiss formed.
As is generally the case in the higher regions of the Silvretta, the vegetation is sparse and consists of rock and debris-dwelling plants of the nival level . In addition to lichens and mosses, the glacier buttercup deserves a special mention, which even blooms on the summit of Piz Buin.
Bases and paths
On the Austrian side, next to the Bieler Höhe, there is the Wiesbadener Hütte ( 2443 m ) on the east side of the Ochsental. From there the traditional normal route leads south over the Vermunt glacier and further west to the Wiesbadener Grätle, from where you cross over the Ochsentaler glacier to the Buinlücke. In the ascent to the Wiesbadner Grätle there are places of difficulty level II (UIAA) to be overcome. After the glacier below the Wiesbadener Grätle began to melt from about the year 2000, this route becomes increasingly difficult and risky. Above all, the danger of falling rocks under the exposed brittle rock has led to the fact that consideration is already being given to closing this route. The entry is becoming more and more difficult due to the lower ice level, so that in midsummer it can often reach difficulty level IV + or even be completely impassable.
An alternative to this route leads from the Wiesbadener Hut or directly from the Bieler Höhe to the Ochsentaler Glacier and over it to the Buinlücke. This ascent is a popular ski tour in winter . The Buinlücke can also be reached on skis from the Tuoi Hut ( 2250 m ) in Val Tuoi, mostly via Fuorcla dal Cunfin, west of the Kleiner Piz Buin, and then via the Ochsentaler Glacier is ascended. If conditions are safe from avalanches, a direct descent through the Buinlücke towards Tuoihütte is possible for very good skiers (narrow in the upper part and approx. 40 ° steep). The path over Fuorcla dal Cunfin can also be reached from the Swiss Silvrettahütte ( 2341 m ).
What all these paths have in common is the summit ascent from the Buinlücke: It leads over the west flank to the northwest ridge and over this through the so-called chimney to the rubble-covered west flank and over this easily to the summit. The exposed key point in the chimney is rated I to III.
Name and story
Piz Buin is a Rhaeto-Romanic name and means 'Ochsenspitze', the "Buin" is stressed on the second syllable. The almost flat valley floor at the exit of the Ochsental, flooded today by the Silvretta reservoir, used to be a pasture area. Grazing animals are kept around the reservoir to this day.
The Romansh original name is Piz Buin Grond ( Great Piz Buin ), in contrast to the small Piz Buin, the Piz Buin Pitschen .
Other names that are hardly used today were “Albuinkopf” in Vorarlberg and “Albainkopf” in Tyrol.
The first ascent was made on July 14, 1865 by Josef Anton Specht and Johann Jakob Weilenmann with the guides Jakob Pfitscher and Franz Pöll. They initially considered getting from the Bielerhöhe from the east to the Wiesbadener Grätle, crossing it and climbing over the gently sloping upper part of what is now known as the “Ochsentaler Glacier” to the Buinlücke (3,054 m).
However, since an ascent over the icefall (still existing today) to the northwest of the Wiesbadener Grätle promised them faster progress, they left the Grätle to the east and reached the summit via the Buinlücke and the western flank in five hours.
The descent initially led back to Buinlücke. The route continued along the northern foot of the Kleiner Piz Buin to the saddle south of the Signalhorn, the “Fuorcla dal Cunfin”, and from there through the Swiss Val Tuoi to Klosters.
The name of the glaciers in the Piz Buin area used to differ from the one used today:
In his description of the first ascent, Weilenmann referred to the ice field, which is now generally known as the “Vermunt Glacier” and is framed by the Dreiländerspitze, Vermuntpaß, Piz Buin and Wiesbadener Grätle, as “Fermunt - or Ochsenthaler Glacier” and as the “main glacier”. He saw the ice flow, which is now known as the “Ochsental Glacier”, which was the first ascent, and which is surrounded by the Wiesbadener Grätle, the Buinen, Signalhorn and Silvrettahorn, as the “side glacier” of the ice field known today as the “Vermuntgletscher”.
Even Hermine and Walther Flaig mentioned in an essay (“100 Years of Piz Buin”) on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the first ascent a “cleft labyrinth of the western Vermunt Glacier”, referring to the icefall of today's “Ochsentaler Glacier”.
At the time of the first ascent, both glaciers joined together below the “Grünen Kuppe” (2579 m) in front of the Wiesbadener Grätli in the north and formed a central moraine there. Today, due to the melting of the glaciers, they are severely reduced and separated by the “Wiesbadener Grätle” and “Grüne Kuppe”, separate ice fields.
On September 13, 1936, Vorarlberg's first summit cross was erected on Piz Buin . The Christian Social Vorarlberger Volksblatt described the highly symbolic domestic action as a "sign that this country is and will remain Christian, despite the onslaught of the 'conquerors of Christianity'" (meaning the communists and the National Socialists ) and described the transport of the cross the summit as the “crusade of the Reichsbund”, which “can hardly be explained physically, but can only be understood through faith that moves mountains”. In the summer of 2012, a new summit cross was flown up the mountain on behalf of the PES after the previous one, which presumably came from the 1950s, was weathered and tilted.
Trivia
The mountain is also the namesake for the “Piz Buin” sun care products from the pharmaceutical company Johnson & Johnson . The chemist Franz Greiter got sunburn while climbing the summit in 1938 and developed the sun protection product of the same name in the following years.
Web links
- Calculated 360 ° panorama ( U. Deuschle ; information ) from Piz Buin
- Tour description. steinmandl.de
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Alpine Club Card No. 26, Silvretta Group Skirouten , 2007
- ↑ a b Flaig: Alpine Club Guide . S. 15-19 .
- ↑ a b Günther Flaig: Alpine Club Guide Silvretta alpin . A guide to valleys, huts and peaks. 13th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2005, ISBN 978-3-7633-1097-5 , p. 202-205 .
- ↑ Sepp Schnürer: Ötztaler Alpen-Silvretta-Ferwall . BLV, Munich 1990, ISBN 3-405-13171-5 , p. 119-121 .
- ↑ Bernhard Tschofen (Ed.): [3312] Piz Buin - literary explorations 1865–2015. Bertolini-Verlag, Bregenz 2015, ISBN 978-3-903023-06-2 .
- ↑ Andreas Rudigier : "Not the slightest trace of previous ascent" - 150 years of Piz Buin. In: Vorarlberg. Vorarlberg Chamber of Commerce, July 4, 2015, accessed on September 6, 2015 .
- ^ The crusade of the Reichsbund on the Piz Buin . In: Vorarlberger Volksblatt . September 15, 1936, p. 4 ( ÖNB / ANNO [accessed on September 6, 2015]).
- ↑ New summit cross erected on Piz Buin. Retrieved July 15, 2019 .
- ^ The first virtual brand museum: Brands and their history - Piz Buin
