Glockner wall
| Glockner wall | ||
|---|---|---|
 Grossglockner on the left, Glocknerwand on the right from the north-west |
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| height | 3721 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Border between Carinthia and East Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Austrian Central Alps , Hohe Tauern , Glockner Group | |
| Dominance | 0.789 km → Grossglockner | |
| Notch height | 125 m ↓ Lower Glocknerscharte | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 4 '47 " N , 12 ° 41' 11" E | |
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| rock | Prasinite | |
| First ascent | September 3, 1872 Josef Pöschl led by Josef Kerer and Peter Groder | |
| Normal way | from the Stüdlhütte over the Teischnitzkees and the southern flank to the summit of the Hofmannspitze | |
The Glocknerwand is a loud Literature 3,721 meters, according to the Austrian Federal Office of Metrology and Surveying 3722 meter high mountain in the Glockner Group in the Central Alps in the middle part of the Hohe Tauern . It is separated from the neighboring Großglockner by the Untere Glocknerscharte (3596 m). The mountain lies on the border between East Tyrol and Carinthia .
The Glocknerwand is a massive, fan-shaped mountain with very steep walls over 400 meters high to the southwest and northeast. The summit area is covered with mighty snow banks, which make climbing dangerous and unpredictable. The towers of the Glocknerwand are therefore considered to be the most difficult peaks in the entire Glockner group to climb.
Ascent history
The first attempt to climb the Glocknerwand was made on September 25, 1869 by the German alpinist Karl Hofmann and the two mountain guides Michael Groder and Josef Kerer. Under difficult conditions the group did not reach the highest point, but only reached a 3711 meter high spire in thick fog. This was named Hofmannspitze in his honor due to a resolution of the Alpine Club of January 31, 1871 . All other towers also bear the names of their conquerors.
It was not until September 3, 1872 that it was possible to climb the highest ridge tower. The mountain guides Josef Kerer and Peter Groder took the Viennese alpinist Josef Pöschl to the 3721 meter high Second Summit Ridge Tower , which was later appropriately named Pöschl Tower . Further attempts at ascent followed, but some also failed, such as the ascent of June 26, 1886, when Alfred Margrave Pallavicini and A. Crommelin with the two guides Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier had a fatal accident when a large part of the Schneewechte fell on the summit of the Hofmannspitze and carried away the climbers. The first solo ascent of the Glocknerwand, without a mountain guide, was accomplished in August 1891 by Dr. Ludwig Kohn from Vienna.
Surroundings
Compared to its south-eastern neighbor, Austria's highest mountain at 3798 meters, the Grossglockner , the Glocknerwand appears to be on an equal footing due to its enormous mass. On the map it appears only as a continuation of the Großglockner north-west ridge, but is clearly separated from it by the deeply cut Untere Glocknerscharte at an altitude of 3589 meters.
In the north-east and south-west of the wall there are extensive glacier areas . In the northeast, the Glocknerkees , which is part of the Pasterze , Austria's largest glacier, extends up to an altitude of 3300 meters . In the south-west lies the Teischnitzkees , which is bounded by the Luisengrat , the southern continuation of the Stüdlgrat leading to the Großglockner .
Neighboring mountains in the northwest are Teufelskamp (3511 m) and Romariswandkopf (3511 m). The nearest permanently inhabited settlements in the southwest are the large village in the Tyrolean Kalser Valley, 9 kilometers as the crow flies , and Winkl near Heiligenblut in Carinthia, 12 kilometers to the east .
The seven ridge towers
Height information according to the topographic map of the Alpine Club 1: 25,000, the towers bear the names of the first climbers:
- 1. Summit ridge tower, called the north-west summit (Hofmannspitze) , 3711 m (deviating from this 3721 m)
- 2nd G., called Pöschlturm , 3721 m
- 3rd G., called Gerinturm , 3718 m
- 4th G., called Draschturm , 3716 m
- 5th G., called Weitzenböckturm , 3710 m
- 6. G., called Untitled Tower (Peterkaturm) , 3715 m. This tower is not named after the first climber, but after Hubert Peterka , the developer of the Glockner group.
- 7. G., called southeast summit (Hörtnaglturm) , 3719 m
Support points, transitions and routes
The path of the first climbers from 1869 began at the newly built Stüdlhütte to the south at an altitude of 2,802 meters and led over the Teischnitzkees. At Teufelskamp you stepped onto the Glocknerwand and climbed up the 52 ° inclined blank ice on the northeast side by hitting the steps with an ice ax . The walking time was about four hours.
The Glocknerwand can only be climbed as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The Stüdlhütte still serves as a base today. The normal route (easiest ascent) leads from the hut in a northerly direction up to the so-called Schere on the Teischnitzkess glacier tongue, then westwards below the Luisengrat up to the level of the Luisenscharte and further in a north-north-west direction to the foot of the Glocknerwand and over the south flank up to the Hofmannspitze via the so-called left or middle ascent in moderately difficult climbing in, according to literature, UIAA difficulty level II to the summit in a walking time of about three hours from the hut. At an altitude of 3260 meters, on the northern edge of the Glocknerkees, below the Glocknerwandkamp, there is the Glockner bivouac box with six emergency camps, which is suitable as a base for tours through the northeast face .
The crossing of all seven towers over to the Großglockner is one of the most demanding undertakings in the entire Eastern Alps. Depending on the conditions, this tightrope walk requires climbing skills of UIAA grade III to IV +, 120 meters in altitude on the descent , 200 m on the ascent, with abseiling points and a walking time of 5 to 8 hours.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, pp. 187 ff.
- ^ Oesterreichische Alpenzeitung , Volume VII, Vienna 1886, p. 164 u. 182 (disaster on the Glocknerwand)
- ↑ a b Willi End: Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Munich 2003, p. 296 f. March 1073
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 296 ff., Margin no. 1073 ff.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
