Teufelskamp
| Teufelskamp | ||
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 Teufelskamp from the southwest, then on the right, Glocknerwand and Großglockner |
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| height | 3511 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Carinthia and Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Glockner group | |
| Dominance | 0.25 km → Glocknerwand | |
| Notch height | 8 m ↓ Teufelskampsattel | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 5 '15 " N , 12 ° 40' 44" E | |
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| rock | Prasinite | |
| First ascent | August 27, 1868 by Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas and Peter Groder | |
| Normal way | from the Stüdlhütte , over the Teichnitzkees to the Teufelskampsattel and over the southwest slope to the summit | |
The Teufelskamp is a 3511 m above sea level. A. high ridge elevation in the Glocknerkamm of the Glockner group . It lies on the border between the Austrian federal states of Tyrol and Carinthia . The Kamp is an elevation completely surrounded by glaciers , and its summit point is also hidden under firn . It is the western point of the terminating northwest ridge of the Glocknerwand and the Großglockner . To the east it sends out a pronounced ice-covered ridge, the so-called ice nose . The northeast face of the Teufelskamp is a steep, extremely dangerous hanging glacier with Séracs , feared towers made of glacier ice that make it impossible to get through. The southwest flank, on the other hand, is only slightly inclined and easy to walk on. To the east, the mountain offers, according to literature, a breathtaking view .
The Teufelskamp was first climbed on August 27, 1868 by the Prague merchant and alpinist Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas and Peter Groder from Kals am Großglockner . The mountain was named "Teufelskamp" by Johann Stüdl and his companions because they looked in vain for a transition down to the Pasterze and failed because of the Séracs. Hubert Peterka and Fritz Herrmann did not manage to find a crossing until July 26, 1926, but they had to bivouac on the summit before they could start the descent through the east face of the Teufelskamp.
Surroundings
The mountain, which is completely surrounded by glaciers, is located in the northwestern part of the Glockner ridge. The Pasterze, the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps, lies in the north-east, below the hanging Teufelskampkees that reach up to the summit . In the south, west and north, the Fruschnitzkees, which is gently sloping in the upper part, encloses the Kamp up to a height of 3480 meters. Adjacent mountains are in the course of the northwest ridge , separated by the Romaris wall saddle at 3426 meters, the 3511 meter high Romariswandkopf and the Schneewinkelkopf with 3476 meters. In the southeast, in the direction of Großglockner, separated by the Teufelskampsattel ( 3503 m ) , lies the 3715 meter high Hofmannspitze , the westernmost summit ridge tower of the Glocknerwand. The next significant settlements in the southwest are the large village in the Tyrolean Kals Valley, 9 kilometers away as the crow flies , and Winkl near Heiligenblut in Carinthia, 12 kilometers to the west .
Support points, transitions and routes
The path of the first ascent from 1868 began at the Stüdlhütte , which is currently under construction, to the south , at an altitude of 2802 meters, which was commissioned and financed by Johann Stüdl and led over the Teischnitzkees over the northwest ridge to the summit. The Teufelskamp can only be climbed as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The Stüdlhütte still serves as a base today. The normal route (the slightest ascent), including the route Stüdls and his companions, leads from the hut in a northerly direction up to the so-called Schere on the Teischnitzkess glacier tongue, then west below the Luisengrat along to the height of the Luisenscharte and further north-north-west to the Romariswandsattel and on the North West back to the top in a floor time of about 2- hours in difficulty UIAA I . Today's most popular ascent, however, takes place over the Eisnase, the eastern firn ridge, and offers an easy ridge ascent.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Individual evidence
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 189
- ^ Willi End: Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Munich 2003, p. 310, margin no. 1110
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 312 ff., Margin no. 1111 ff.