Johann Stüdl

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From: Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , year 1894, (Volume XXV), p. 230
Johann Stüdl: The Dreiherrenspitze from the front Umbalthörl (drawing, color lithograph by C. Feederle , Munich, before 1872)
Memorial plaque for Johann Stüdl on his house in Salzburg
Memorial plaque for Johann Stüdl on the climb to the Söldenhütte
Map of the Glockner group with the routes from Hofmann and Stüdl

Johann Stüdl (born June 27, 1839 in Prague , † January 29, 1925 in Salzburg ) was a Prague merchant and promoter of alpinism in Austria .

Life

Johann Stüdl was born on June 27, 1839 as the first child of a Prague merchant family. Contrary to his father's advice, his son, who was interested in natural sciences, began studying chemistry in 1856, first in Prague and later at the Dresden Polytechnic . However, he gave up the study when his father died young and he, in Prague, the trade in wine and groceries had to continue.

Despite the heavy business demands over decades, Stüdl was able to devote himself completely to the Alpine cause , both practically, as an alpinist, and theoretically, as an Alpine writer and organizer. 

Johann Stüdl married in 1872. With his wife he had two daughters and a son, Max.

In 1919, at the age of 81, Stüdl, as an old champion for Germanism , was forced to leave his hometown, Prague. He moved to his son and his family in the city of Salzburg, where Max († November 4, 1921) acquired the Goldene Pear Inn ( Judengasse 1 ).

In the last years of his life, Stüdl developed a lively activity in the Salzburg section and was promoted to the Söldenhütte ( Tennengebirge ) just over six months before his death . 

Cared for by his daughter-in-law for the last years, imperial councilor Johann Stüdl died on January 29, 1925 in Salzburg. On January 31, 1925, he was buried in the Salzburg municipal cemetery at the side of his son and relatives who had been transferred from Prague. 

As recorded in an obituary, Johann Stüdl was a man with a tried and tested liberal disposition who had taken a lifelong position against politics being dragged into mountaineering and who had condemned the hateful actions against the former Donauland section of the Alpine Club in word and writing . On the exclusion of the Donauland section from the Alpine Club in 1924, Stüdl said:

“The blatant injustice that the main committee, in its foolish fear of the terror of destructive elements and the misguided, agitated, insufficiently informed sections on 'Donauland' are preparing to commit, will not bring peace to the Alpine Association, but the curse of evil . "

Services

Johann Stüdl played a key role in developing the Glockner and Venediger groups in the Eastern Alps for tourism . When he and his brother Franz came to Kals am Großglockner for the first time in 1867 to climb the highest mountain in Austria, he noticed that the people of Kals were looking for a sponsor for their project to develop a new route to the Großglockner over the southwest ridge . Stüdl not only invested in the construction of a climbing system with iron pins and ropes , but also financed the construction of the Stüdlhütte named after him at the foot of the south-west ridge in 1868 , the first refuge in the Central Eastern Alps. At the beginning of the 20th century, the name Stüdlgrat, which is still used today, was adopted for the southwest ridge in honor of Stüdl .

In addition to his activities in the area around the Großglockner, he also initiated or financed the construction of several other shelters in the Alpine region. These include the Prager Hütte and the Clarahütte (named after the wife of a wine merchant from Prague he knows) in the Großvenediger area , as well as the Glorerhütte on the Großglockner and the Payerhütte on the Ortler .

At the suggestion of Pastor Franz Senn from Vent in the Ötztal, Johann Stüdl founded the first mountain guide association in the Eastern Alps in Kals am Großglockner in 1869 and thus laid the foundation for today's organized mountain guide system in Austria. He was also a founding member of the German Alpine Club (DAV) and chairman of the Prague section of the DAV for 50 years .

First ascents

Stüdl is the first to climb the Schneewinkelkopf , the Hohe Riffl , the Hinteren Bratschenkopf , the Klockerin and the Großer Bärenkopf in the Glockner group. He also looked for a long time to descend from the summit of the Großglockner directly to the Pasterzen glacier , but couldn't find one. Instead, a friend of Stüdl's, Karl Hofmann from Munich , succeeded in doing this in 1870 .

Publications

Design for a refuge

Together with Eduard Richter  - hikes in the Venediger group :

Awards, honors

literature

Web links

Commons : Johann Stüdl  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c d e f g Johann Stüdl's curriculum vitae.
  2. ↑ a b Emmer: At Stüdl's grave .
  3. ↑ Friederike Zaisberger , Reinhard R. Heinisch (ed.): Life beyond death ... Prominent people in the Salzburg municipal cemetery (= messages from the Society for Salzburg Regional Studies, supplementary volume 23). Society for Salzburg Regional Studies, Salzburg 2006, OBV , p. 312.
  4. ↑ Max Stüdl †. In: Mitteilungen des Deutschen und Österreichischer Alpenverein , born in 1921, (Volume XLVII), p. 89, top right. (Online at ALO ).
  5. ↑ Hackel: Father Stüdl's last ascent , p. 120.
  6. ^ Death of the outstanding alpinist Johann Stüdl. In:  Neue Freie Presse , Morgenblatt, No. 21689/1925, January 30, 1925, p. 6 middle. (Online at ANNO ). Template: ANNO / Maintenance / nfp.
  7. ↑ Martin Achrainer, "So, now we are all to ourselves!" Anti-Semitism in the Alpine Association. , in: Hanno Loewy, Gerhard Milchram (eds.), “Did you see my Alps?” A Jewish relationship story, exhibition catalog, Vienna 2009, pp. 288–317, there p. 308
  8. ^ The Stüdl celebration in Sulden. In: Communications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , year 1897, (Volume XXIII), p. 216 f. (Online at ALO ).
  9. ^ Dreyer: Johann Stüdl. A memorial sheet for his 70th birthday , p. 143.

Remarks

  1. ↑ She dies many years before her husband.
  2. ↑ a b Publication reference in: Emmer: Johann Stüdl. (...) The alpine writer.
  3. ↑ a b c class not known.
personal data
SURNAME Stüdl, Johann
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Prague merchant and promoter of mountaineering
DATE OF BIRTH June 27, 1839
PLACE OF BIRTH Prague
DATE OF DEATH January 29, 1925
Place of death Salzburg