Back viola head

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Back viola head
Front and rear viola heads (right with summit cross). From the Kaindlgrat

Front and rear viola heads (right with summit cross). From the Kaindlgrat

height 3413  m above sea level A.
location Salzburg , Austria
Mountains Glockner Group , Hohe Tauern
Dominance 0.7 km →  Klockerin
Notch height 118 m ↓  Scharte to Klockerin
Coordinates 47 ° 9 '4 "  N , 12 ° 44' 35"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 9 '4 "  N , 12 ° 44' 35"  E
Rear viola head (State of Salzburg)
Back viola head
rock Limestone slate, violas
First ascent September 18, 1869 by Karl Hofmann , Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell
Normal way from Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus via Kaindlgrat, the Wielingerscharte and the northeast side to the summit

The rear viola head is 3413  m above sea level. A. high mountain of the Glockner group in the Fuscher / Kapruner ridge of the Hohe Tauern , a mountain range in the Central Alps . The mountain is located in the Austrian state of Salzburg . From the north, east and south it appears as a gently curving firn peak , but to the west it has a huge 1400 meter high and 40 to 60 ° inclined rock face. To the north it sends out a steep 500 meter long ridge. Due to its easy accessibility from Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus , the Kopf is a popular vantage point. The mountain was first climbed on September 18, 1869 by the Munich alpinist Karl Hofmann, the Prague merchant Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner .

Naming

The name Rear Bratschenkopf the mountain was in 1871 at the suggestion of kuk Austrian surveying officer Major Joseph Pelican Plauen Forest. On the old Tauern map by Franz Keil from 1855, the head was still marked as a Glockerin , which goes back to Karl Sonklar and Johann Stüdl, while the so-called Klockerin was not yet known.

Alpine Club map 1: 50,000 from 1891

There was also a certain confusion in the naming of the surrounding mountains. "Small", "Middle", "Large" and "Front Bear Head" were names that were arbitrarily assigned at the time for different but also the same peaks. It was not until the Alpine Club map of 1891 that a binding naming was introduced, thus ensuring a system that was recognized by alpinists and limited the orientation difficulties and errors in ascents and measurements that were common at the time.

Surroundings

The rear Bratschenkopf is surrounded by glaciers . In the northeast is the small Kaindlkees , in the east the nutrient area of ​​the Teufelsmühlkees extends to just below the summit. In the south lies the Bratschenkopfkees and in the west, below the mighty west wall , the (Lower) Klockerinkees . Significant neighboring mountains are in the course of the southeast ridge , separated by the Bratschenkopfscharte located at 3383 meters above sea level , the Vordere Bratschenkopf with a height of 3401 meters and in a south-westerly direction, beyond the ice divide at 3295 meters between Bratschenkopfkees and Oberen Klockerinkees , the 3425 meters high klockerin. The highest mountain in the area, the Great Wiesbachhorn at 3564 meters, is located in the northeastern neighborhood. The nearest significant settlement is Fusch on Großglocknerstrasse, just 11 kilometers to the north as the crow flies . To the north-west, the Hintere Bratschenkopf falls down to the Mooserboden dam .

Bases and tours

The path taken by the alpinists in 1869 led from the Kaprun side, from the north, over the glacier saddle with the misleading name Wielingerscharte up to the mountain. This route is still the normal route today . The Hintere Bratschenkopf can only be reached as an alpine tour , appropriate equipment and glacier experience are required. The Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus serves as a base at an altitude of 2,802 meters, east of the Mooserboden. From the hut the path leads in a south-easterly direction up to the Obere Fochezkopf (3,159 m), over the firn-covered Kaindlgrat on the upper Wielingerkees , past the foot of the Wiesbachhorn-Westgrat , then in a southerly direction over the so-called Wielingerscharte to the Bratschenkopfscharte and up to the summit cross of the Back viola's head. According to the literature, the walking time is around 2 to 3 hours, depending on the conditions. A slight increase in firn is also possible from the southeast. More difficult climbs lead from the Schwarzenberghütte to the south at 2267 meters above sea level, over the Hochgruberkees and Bratschenkopfkees as an ice tour over the southern flank with inclines of 40 to 60 °. Climbing routes of difficulty level UIAA III lead over the steep north ridge with an altitude of 620 meters . Through the west face, which has been climbed first since 1928, routes in degrees of difficulty up to about UIAA III +, at 1,300 meters above sea level, lead to a high risk of falling rocks.

Literature and map

Commons : Back Viola Head  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  2. ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume III, Munich 1872, p. 68
  3. ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 202 ff.
  4. ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 426 ff., Margin no. 1570 ff.