Klockerin
| Klockerin | ||
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 Klockerin vom Hinteren Bratschenkopf, in the background the Grossglockner |
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| height | 3422 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Glockner group | |
| Dominance | 1.6 km → Great Wiesbachhorn | |
| Notch height | 194 m ↓ Wielingerscharte | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 8 '49 " N , 12 ° 44' 9" E | |
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| First ascent | September 18, 1869 by Karl Hofmann , Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell | |
| Normal way | South ridge ( I ) | |
The Klockerin (formerly also called Glockerin or Glocknerin ) is a mountain of the Glockner group of the Hohe Tauern in the Austrian state of Salzburg, consisting of two peaks . The southwest peak is 3422 m above sea level. A. high, the north-east summit has a height of 3335 m . The two peaks are about 240 meters apart. The mountain emits a pronounced ridge to the west , the west-northwest ridge is a short but sharp rock ridge. The Klockerin has a mighty north-west face about 920 meters high and inclined up to 54 ° . Especially to the west, towards the Mooserboden reservoir (target at 2036 m ), it appears as a huge massif.
The mountain was first climbed on September 18, 1869 by the German alpinist Karl Hofmann , the Prague merchant Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner .
Location and surroundings
The Klockerin is surrounded by glaciers . In the northeast lies the small Obere Klockerinkees , in the southeast the cracked Bratschenkopfkees extends up to the firn-covered highest point of the southeast summit. In the west is the Bärenkopfkees , and in the northwest, below the mighty northwest face , the (Lower) Klockerinkees . Significant adjacent mountains are in the course of Südgrats, separated by the at 3074 m located meters Gruberscharte , the Large bear's head with a height of 3396 m , north-east, beyond 3383 m high altitude Bratschenkopf-lip , the 3564 m high Large Wiesbachhorn , the highest Mountain of the area. To the northwest of this notch lies the rear , 3413 m high , and the front Bratschenkopf , with a height of 3401 m , to the southeast . The nearest significant settlements are Kaprun im Pinzgau, about 9 kilometers to the north as the crow flies , and Fusch an der Großglocknerstraße 11 kilometers away . To the west, the Klockerin falls down to Mooserboden .
Bases and tours
The path taken by the alpinists in 1869 led from the Kaprun side to a mountain that they believed was the Great Bear's Head . In truth, they were standing on an unknown summit, which was not yet shown on Franz Keil's Tauern map at that time . Since the mountain, later known as the Glockerin , can only be reached as a serious alpine tour , appropriate equipment and glacier experience are essential. Today's normal route was followed by Stüdl and companions on their descent; today it is used as an ascent. The Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus at 2,802 m above sea level, east above the Mooserboden, or the Oberwalder Hut ( 2,972 m ), north-west above the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, serves as a base . From the Oberwalder Hütte the path leads north as a serious glacier walk over the waterfall angle and the Bockkarkees to the Keilscharte , then north-east over the Bärenkopfkees to the Gruberscharte (with a bivouac box at 3104 m , 9 emergency camps) and over the south ridge of the Klockerin in easy climbing UIAA I. to the southeast summit. There are 330 meters of altitude to overcome from the saddle. Combined ice and rock climbing routes have led since the mid-1920s over the south-east flank (up to UIAA III), over the north-west rib (45 °, UIAA IV-, 890 meters in altitude) and through the north-west face. Here the key points show difficulties from UIAA IV and V, with a slope of 56 ° and 922 meters of altitude.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Height of the reference chart according to the Salzburg Geographic Information System .
- ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Klockerin on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume III, Munich 1872, p. 68
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 204 ff.
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 418 ff., Margin no. 1552 ff.