Great Bear Head (Glockner Group)
| Big bear head | ||
|---|---|---|
 Big bear head (left), middle and front bear head (middle) and Schattseitköpfl (right) |
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| height | 3396 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Carinthia and Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Glockner Group , Hohe Tauern | |
| Dominance | 1.7 km → Klockerin | |
| Notch height | 302 m ↓ Riffltor | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 7 '51 " N , 12 ° 43' 53" E | |
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| rock | Lime mica slate , lime silicate gneiss | |
| First ascent | September 18, 1869 by Karl Hofmann , Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell | |
| Normal way | High tour from the Oberwalder Hütte over the glacier to the Keilscharte and over the west ridge to the summit | |
The Große Bärenkopf (also known as the Weißer Bärenkopf ) is a mountain of the Glockner group consisting of two peaks in the Fuscher / Kapruner ridge of the Hohe Tauern , a mountain range in the Central Alps . The mountain lies exactly on the border between the Austrian federal states of Salzburg and Carinthia . The main summit is 3396 m above sea level. A. meters high, the west summit has a height of 3353 m . The two peaks are about 300 meters apart. The mountain sends pronounced ridges in all four directions. Seen from the north-east, the Großer Bärenkopf has the shape of a striking, wide Firnberg , from the other directions it appears as a rocky mountain. It was first climbed on September 18, 1869 by the Munich alpinist Karl Hofmann , the Prague merchant Johann Stüdl and the mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner on their exploration tour, which they also took to the neighboring mountains Hinterer Bratschenkopf to the north on the same day and led Klockerin . Today the Großer Bärenkopf is often climbed as part of the transition between the Oberwalder Hütte and the Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus .
Location and surroundings
The big bear head is split rich surrounding glaciers. In the east, north and west lies the western and eastern Bärenkopfkees , which reaches up to the summit, and in the south the Bockkarkees extends . Adjacent mountains are in the course of the north ridge , separated by the Gruberscharte at an altitude of 3080 meters , the Klockerin at 3,425 meters and in the course of the east ridge , separated by the Dockscharte at 3234 meters, the Hohe Dock at 3348 meters. In the south, beyond the Bockkarkee, lies the 3115 meter high Breitkopf . In the course of the west ridge , separated by the Keilscharte (3187 m), lie the Mittlere Bärenkopf (3358 m) and a little north of it the Schwarzköpfl with a height of 3124 meters. The nearest significant settlements are Kaprun im Pinzgau, about 9 kilometers to the north as the crow flies , and Fusch an der Großglocknerstraße 11 kilometers to the northeast .
Bases and tours
The path that the alpinists took in 1869 led from the Kaprun side in the best clear weather to a mountain that they believed was the Great Bear's Head . In truth, they were standing on an unknown summit, which was not yet shown on the maps of that time and was only called "Glockerin" from 1891 onwards. Their further path then led them over the east ridge to what is now known as the “Great Bear Head”. They also climbed the rear viola head . The only way they could orientate themselves was the Tauern map from 1859 by Franz Keil , which was still very imprecise as Keil himself could not penetrate far enough into the area. The fact that they had successfully climbed three first climbs on September 18 only became clear when the Alpine Club map of 1891 came out and for the first time enabled clear mapping of mountains and names.
Even today, the Großer Bärenkopf can only be reached on a serious alpine tour , with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The current normal route was first used in 1871 and has proven to be the easiest ascent. The Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus at 2802 meters above sea level, east above the Mooserboden , or the Oberwalderhütte (2973 m), north-west above the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, serves as a base for the tour . From the Oberwalderhütte the path leads in a northerly direction as a serious glacier walk over the Wasserfallwinkel and the Bockkarkees to the Keilscharte , then in an easterly direction over the west ridge to the summit of the Großer Bärenkopf. In the Gruberscharte, in the north ridge of the head, there is a bivouac box at an altitude of 3100 meters with 9 emergency camps. According to literature, the walking time from the hut is about three hours. The west ridge requires easy climbing of the UIAA I level of difficulty . Since 1925, the south ridge has also been used as an alternative climb in UIAA grade II. Climbing routes through the south-west face climbed by Hubert Peterka and Hans Majer in 1925 are rarely used because of their dangerousness.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Individual evidence
- ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume III, Munich 1872, p. 68
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 202 ff.
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, p. 374 ff., Rz 1380 ff.