Alpine Club Yearbook

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The Alpine Club Yearbook has been published annually by the Austrian , German and South Tyrolean Alpine Club since 1949 . It is the successor to the magazine of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, which was published from 1872 to 1942 . The yearbook continues the tradition of the old magazine , so it still has this addition on the title page today. For example, the full title of the 2011 edition is Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2011, Magazine Volume 135 . In addition to the editorial team for the yearbook, there is an advisory board made up of representatives from the three Alpine clubs.

history

The German and Austrian Alpine Association , since the annexation of Austria in March 1938 only the German Alpine Association, was banned by the Allies in 1945 due to its National Socialist orientation under its leader Arthur Seyß-Inquart . The since 1938 by the DC circuit no longer independently-emergent Austrian Alpine Association was re-established in the same year, the DAV was allowed to reconstitute itself, however, only the 1,952th The yearbook was therefore initially published by the PES only in 1949, and in 1951 an edition of the DAV appeared for the first time, although except for the title it was identical to the Austrian one and was referred to as the so-called bridging volume 1943-1951 . All subsequent editions of the yearbook also had literally the same content.

In 1970 the two clubs appeared together again as publishers. The Alpine Club South Tyrol (AVS) joined in the 1982/83 double year.

Authors and content

In addition to some old authors, such as the geologist Raimund Klebelsberg , the photographer Erika Hubatschek and the historian Karl Finsterwalder , who wrote for the magazine before 1945, new ones have now appeared. Walther Flaig , who later became a connoisseur of the Bernina , wrote about the Roggspitze in an enthusiastic style in 1949. In 1950, the pioneer of free climbing Matthias Rebitsch reported on his first ascent of the Laliderer North Face in 1932. In 1951, Herbert Paidar wrote his last contribution to the yearbook with the Title Fate of the Himalayas , in which he reports on his expedition in 1939 (Paidar was killed in September 1951 by falling rocks on the Pallavicini channel on the Grossglockner).

1951 to 1960

The next years had a content similar to that of the old pre-war magazine, a mixture of scientific treatises, travelogues from all over the world, folklore and anecdotes. In 1953 the Nanga Parbat theme dominated . A contribution by Karl Maria Herrligkoffer about the successful expedition to the alleged German mountain of fate , which he referred to as the Willy Merkl memory expedition ( Willy Merkl had an accident in 1934 during the failed German Nanga Parbat expedition ), introduced a series of extensive essays. Herrligkoffer ended his report with the pathetic words, ... thus put the line under the dramatic struggle for the German mountain of fate in the Himalayas - the German-Austrian-Willy-Merkl-memory expedition had been able to fulfill the legacy of the dead comrades. In 1954, the Munich doctor Karl Leibl wrote about the vertigo and immediately stated that it was a "taboo" of culture to openly show fear. The Himalayas remained a main theme of the yearbook in the years that followed. In the 1957 edition, as a result of the numerous Himalayan expeditions since the 1920s, an Alpine Club map on a scale of 1: 25,000 with Mount Everest by Erwin Schneider appeared as a supplement to the yearbook. In the same volume, Arnold Fanck also reports on his work as a director of his mountain films and on how he was sidelined by the National Socialist Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels in 1939 and was no longer able to gain a professional foothold after the war. In the next few years the focus of large expeditions was initially in South America. In 1960, the focus was again on customer trips , as expeditions were traditionally called in the Alpine Association, in the Himalayas and the Hindu Kush. In the same issue, the zoologist Friedrich Schaller described new findings about the springtail under the title News from the Glacier Flea .

1961 to 1970

Up until now, men wrote almost exclusively for the yearbook, and photographer Erika Hubatschek was only allowed to publish once during the war, when Liselotte Buchenauer began a new era in 1964. Her essay titled Three Great Women Mountaineers was devoted to the sometimes tragic story of three young women and girls who were not inferior to their male colleagues in their mountaineering performance, the Slovenian mountaineer Mira Marko Debelakova , who succeeded in climbing the Špik north face for the first time in 1926 , the Austrian Grete Rieder , who was the first woman to climb Güntherweg am Hochschwab in 1932 and died at the age of 35 when the weather fell on the Kleiner Buchstein , and Maria Kampitsch , who climbed the Toter Hund am Türlspitz route with Kurt Maix in 1946 ( difficulty UIAA VI ) She had an accident in 1956 during a sudden fall in the weather in the Meije. In 1967, the yearbook published a preprint of the book Von der Krinoline zum 6. Grad , by Felicitas von Reznicek, which outlines the 400-year history of female mountaineers. In 1969, on the 100th anniversary of the German Alpine Club, the official address by the theologian, philosopher and first chairman of the DAV, Ulrich Mann, with the title DAV - Where from? Where? Where? One aspect of the speech was the so-called coming to terms with the past with regard to the time after 1933. The association had always been apolitical . From 1933 onwards it took great effort to protect the association from the threat of political infiltration; under various dangers, and not without the necessary ingenious tricks, this has also succeeded to some extent. Then further: It is my duty to determine this objectively to not a few [...]. He ends the topic with the sentence: If you haven't experienced it yourself, you can't have a say. What remains unmentioned, among other things, is the open anti-Semitism that has existed in most sections of the Alpine Club since the 1920s . While senior editors were only rarely mentioned by name in the yearbook, from the 1969 edition onwards the names of the authors responsible for the so-called editorial management appeared regularly, alternating between the DAV and the OeAV. In 1970, the year of European nature conservation , Peter Pernthaler , Professor of Public Law at the University of Innsbruck, contributed a keynote address on the topic of Alpine Association and Nature Conservation Today , in which he fears a sudden awakening in a completely denatured world .

1971 to 1980

The environment remained a theme in the yearbook throughout the 1970s. Ulrich Mann asserts in his essay Education for Environmental Consciousness as an anthropological-ethical task that although humans are still in the stage of Pithecanthropus erectus without expecting progress , they can still move something through transcendence, order, preservation, which are the three characteristics of conservative thinking . As an example, he cites the protests of Stockholm citizens at the time, especially the young people, who preserved the trees of their city without any socially critical tones. In 1975, for the 100th edition of the yearbook, since the magazine was founded, Nils Faarlund asks the question, mountaineering - why? , Renate Katarina Oswald calls for the rescue of the wilderness and Michael Schweikert describes environmental problems in the Alpine region . The critical discussion of the Alpine Club continued in the following years. Is the Alpine Club on the right track? asks Louis Oberwalder and Reinhold Messner delivers an article for the yearbook with a report on the South Tyrolean Andean expedition in 1974. Richard Grumm provides figures on the low proportion of women in leading positions in the sections in his article Women in the Alpine Club and in 1976, on the occasion of the International Year of Women in 1975, stated that women most often hold the office of secretary, treasurer and work in youth care are. Five out of 42 articles in this issue were written by women. The Polish mountaineer Wanda Rutkiewicz published a report on the first winter ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn in an all-women rope team in the 1978 yearbook, which also mentions the rivalry with a mixed Japanese rope team that was rising at the same time, which resulted in the question of which woman was the first to climb will stand at the summit. From the mid-1970s, sport and competitive climbing gained greater attention in the Alpine Club yearbook. The defining author on this topic was Reinhard Karl , who wrote several articles.

1981 to 1990

Climbing at the upper levels of difficulty was also a topic in the yearbook in the 1980s. Technical climbing , which had been widespread up until then , was finally replaced by free climbing in the 1980s . In 1981 Mathias Rebitsch started with an extended report on his first ascent of the Direct North Face of the Laliderer Spitze in 1946. Pit Schubert regularly reports on his equipment tests. Also in the 1981 yearbook, drawings by the caricaturist and comic artist Sebastian Wardrobe were published for the first time. In his essay, The Well-intentioned Snapshot and the Bad Tourist Conscience , Herbert Hoffmann criticized the increasing growth of trekking tourism in Nepal at that time . In the 1982/83 double year, the Alpenverein Südtirol appeared for the first time alongside DAV and ÖAV as the publisher. In this issue, the increase in mountain tourism in the Alpine region and the relationship of the Alpine Association to it are critically examined and commented on: Between freedom and regulation, mountaineering today . In 1984, in what was then known as the Orwell year in the media , Heinz Röhle, who later became the not undisputed president of the DAV, and Franz Speer took a position on nature conservation in a world threatened by over- engineering in an interview . In that year, Herbert Guggenbichler, a fellow countryman of Messner, published a critical study of Reinhold Messner's worldview . It is a criticism of the too great, often problematic influence of Messner on alpinism , especially on the basis of his numerous publications, which were controversial at the time. In 1985, Judith Huber published an article dealing with relationship problems: Climbing - Reason for Divorce? Stressful situations in the mountains and their effects on the partnership . A women's issue is also addressed in the 1986 class. Emancipation in the shadow of the Himalayas is the title of a contribution by Joëlle Kirch, in which she describes the living conditions of Sherpa women who carry out porter services for expeditions and pays tribute to their awakening self-confidence.

1991 to 2000

The 1990s were all about sport climbing. The cover pages of the yearbook show professional photos of imposing rock faces in the best weather with handsome, well-dressed young athletes who seemingly effortlessly conquer the rock. Peter Baumgartner states in his article The real adventures are in the head that fashion trends in relation to clothing, promoted by the equipment industry, are more important to climbers and mountaineers than they used to be. The terms Zeitgeist and Schickimicki have established themselves in the common parlance of mountaineers, chic branded outdoor clothing has been trendy since then, knee breeches and red stockings are frowned upon from now on. The social upheavals of 1989, which finally led to the turnaround in the GDR, also brought climbing in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains more into the consciousness of the Alpine Club. The 1993 yearbook published a critical article on climbing in Saxony with the title Lifetime, Saxon Rock Climbing - Preserving Tradition but Preventing Stagnation , in which the Saxon climber Bernd Arnold draws a critical balance. The other traditional topics such as environmental protection, art and culture, however, continue to occupy their ancestral space in the yearbooks of that time. Women's alpinism is the title of an article by Dagmar Wabnik, who in 1994 investigated the question of why women are underrepresented in harder alpinism, i.e. in high altitudes or difficult tours. Based on statistical surveys, she comes to the conclusion that physical causes are less of a role, but rather a psychological-mental area - the underestimation of one's own performance, but also a certain fearfulness and expectations of society .

2001 to 2010

In this decade the attempt at the Alpine Club begins to deal thoroughly with its own history from 1921 to 1945. Nicholas Mailänder publishes an extensive article in the 2008 yearbook entitled In the Shadow of History , which critically deals, among other things, with the role of the officials at the time in the re-establishment of the association in 1950: Not zero hour in the Alpine Association . Other priorities in this decade are nature conservation, mountaineering safety and the critical questioning of mountaineering in some articles that deal with the question of people's willingness to take risks. The sense of the car - why people face dangerous challenges is the title of a detailed article by sports scientist and psychologist Siegbert Warwitz in the 2006 yearbook. In 2007 , Wolfgang Pusch dealt with the ever-increasing tourism in the so-called fashion mountains . Using the example of Großglockner , the highest mountain in Austria, he talks about the excesses and conditions of mountain tourism in connection with the increasingly hot summers since 2003 in his essay entitled traffic jam under the summit cross and loneliness above the clouds . The then quite new fashion trend of skyrunning was presented by the later controversial Christian Stangl in 2009 from the point of view of a perfectly trained skyrunner : Skyrunning - fast mountaineering on the highest mountains in the world is the title of an uncritical essay that provides tips for successful skyrunning under time pressure. The 1968 movement and the DAV is the title of an essay by Nicholas Mailänder, also in the 2009 yearbook, which deals with the influence of that movement on the Alpine Club. Mailänder sees Reinhold Messner as the most important representative of this movement, which also wanted a revolution in alpine mountain sports, but failed because of the conservative functionaries in the club. One result of this failure was the founding of the Red Star climbing community (KKRS) on June 17, 1970, in which left-wing Franconian climbers around Rudl Buchner joined forces.

Number of pages and equipment

The yearbook initially followed on from the pre-war magazine, so the Fraktur typeface customary at that time was still used, the book format also corresponded to its predecessor at around 19 by 26 cm (large octave). The number of pages was initially less than 150 than that of the pre-war magazine. Up until the 1951 year there was a linen spine and book cover made of cardboard, the half volume , from 1952 the yearbook appeared as a full volume made of linen. Color images were not used until 1959, but duplex printing was used to reproduce photos since the post-war period . To this day, every issue, like the old magazine, has a supplement in the form of an Alpine Club card . From 1957 the Fraktur typeface used since the First World War was replaced by an Antiqua , as was already common in the 19th century. At the end of the 1960s the size of the yearbook increased again; the 1970 edition had over 220 pages. Since 1975 the Alpine Club Yearbook , as it has been called since 1970, has been given a colored dust jacket and full color illustrations. With the 1981 edition, the book format increased to 21 by 27 centimeters.

Web link

  • The library of the German Alpine Club publishes the editions of the yearbook including its predecessors from 1869 to the current edition on its website .

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , Innsbruck 1949, p. 81, ff.
  2. ↑ Yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , Innsbruck 1950, p. 53, ff.
  3. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club , Munich 1953, p. 5 ff.
  4. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club , Munich 1954, p. 131 ff.
  5. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club , Munich 1957, p. 151 ff.
  6. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club , Munich 1960, p. 159 ff.
  7. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club (Alpenvereinszeitschrift, Volume 89) , Munich 1964, p. 139 ff.
  8. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club 1967 , Munich 1967, pp. Ff.
  9. ↑ Yearbook of the German Alpine Club , Munich 1969, p. 7 ff.
  10. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1970 , Innsbruck, Munich 1970, pp. 5 ff.
  11. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1973 , Innsbruck, Munich 1973, p. 168 ff.
  12. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1975 , Munich, Innsbruck 1975, pp. 141 ff.
  13. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1976 , Innsbruck, Munich 1976, p. 46 ff.
  14. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1978 , Innsbruck, Munich 1978, p. 153 ff.
  15. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook 1981 , Munich, Innsbruck 1981, p. 82 ff.
  16. ^ Alpenvereinsjahrbuch 1982/83 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1982, p. 55 ff.
  17. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 84 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1984, p. 61 ff.
  18. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg '86 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1986, p. 100
  19. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg '92 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1992, p. 49 ff.
  20. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg '93 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1993, p. 115 ff.
  21. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg '94 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 1994, p. 59 ff.
  22. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2008 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 2008, p. 216 ff.
  23. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2006 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 2006, p. 96 ff.
  24. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2006 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 2007, p. 280 ff.
  25. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2009 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 2009, p. 120 ff.
  26. ↑ Alpine Club Yearbook Berg 2009 , Munich, Innsbruck, Bozen 2009, p. 234 ff.