Roggspitze
| Roggspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 Roggspitze from the west, from the Hasenfluh-Ostgipfel |
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| height | 2747 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Border Tyrol / Vorarlberg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Lechtal Alps | |
| Dominance | 0.81 km → Valluga | |
| Notch height | 246 m ↓ Pazüeljoch | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 9 '55 " N , 10 ° 12' 33" E | |
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| rock | Aptych lime | |
| First ascent | 1877 by a local shepherd Martin Josef Zudrell | |
| Normal way | from the Stuttgarter Hütte over the western Erlispitze, Roggscharte and the north ridge to the summit (UIAA I-II) | |
The Roggspitze (also called Rockspitze in old literature ) is a 2747 meter high mountain in the Vallugagruppe in the western part of the Lechtal Alps , on the border between the Austrian states of Tyrol and Vorarlberg . The name is derived from the Rhaeto-Romanic Rocca , German rock . The mountain has a distinctive, conspicuously triangular shape, especially seen from the west, with very steep walls to the south and east. As a result, the Roggspitze has a strong geographical dominance to the north. The mountain is popular with climbers, who find routes up to UIAA grade VI there, because of its easy accessibility and its solid aptych limestone . The top was first climbed in 1877 by the shepherd Martin Josef Zudrell from the Pazieltal .
Location and surroundings
The Roggspitze is about three and a half kilometers as the crow flies east of Zürs am Arlberg on the Flexenpass . The neighboring summit is in the south, separated by the northern and southern Pazieljoch (2495 m), the 2809 meter high Valluga . In the south-west is the Trittkopf at 2720 meters, immediately to the north, separated by the Roggscharte (2550 m), are the two Erlispitzen, at 2631 and 2634 meters. In the east the terrain drops steeply to the end of the Almajurbach valley .
Base and normal route
The Stuttgarter Hut in the north at an altitude of 2305 meters serves as a base for ascent of the Roggspitze . The normal route leads from the hut south to the north ridge of the western Erlispitze in difficulty UIAA I to the summit. After crossing this, it goes over the south ridge of the western Erlispitze down to the southern Roggscharte . Then over the brittle rock of the north ridge of the Roggspitze in firmer rock to the summit, sometimes with difficulty UIAA II. The duration of this tour is two hours. The so-called Black Gully, because of the dark debris in places, is particularly suitable for the descent and leads from the eastern summit towards the eastern Roggscharte, always keeping to the left of the ridge. Numerous smaller variants open up. Difficulty level UIAA I +, dangerous in snow or icy conditions.
To the west below the Roggspitze the Robert-Bosch-Weg runs from the Stuttgarter to the Ulmer Hütte .
Literature and map
- Dieter Seibert: Alpine Club Guide Lechtaler Alpen , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-7633-1268-9
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 3/2, Lechtal Alps
Individual evidence
- ↑ See also: Josef Zösmair, Die Bergnames Vorarlbergs, UT: if possible explained on a documentary basis, Verlag der Vorarlberger Buchdruckerei-Gesellschaft mbH, Dornbirn 1923, p. 30.
- ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume XVI, Salzburg 1885, p. 313
- ↑ Dieter Seibert: Alpine Club Guide Lechtaler Alpen , Munich 2008, p. 281 f., RZ 1101 ff.
