Trafoier ice wall
| Trafoier ice wall | ||
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 Trafoier ice wall with circus remote |
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| height | 3565 m slm | |
| location | Border between South Tyrol and the province of Sondrio , Italy | |
| Mountains | Crystal ridge in the Ortler Alps | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 29 '44 " N , 10 ° 30' 58" E | |
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| First ascent | on July 8, 1872 by Moritz von Déchy and the mountain guides Alois and Johann Pinggera | |
| Normal way | Alpine tour and climbing from the Livriohütte over the west ridge | |
The Trafoier Eiswand ( Italian Cima di Trafoi ), formerly also called Trafoierspitze , is a 3565 meter high mountain in the Kristallkamm , a mountain range of the western Ortler Alps , a mountain range of the southern Eastern Alps , that runs from the Stilfser Joch to the Ortler Pass . The ice wall lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Sondrio in the Stilfserjoch National Park . The summit of the Trafoier Eiswand is connected to the Thurwieserspitze to the east by the almost one kilometer long Bäckmanngrat , named after the Petersburg naturalist and State Councilor Carl Bäckmann. The mountain is an evenly shaped ice peak and has an ice wall 400 meters high and inclined in places up to 80 °, sloping to the north. The Trafoier Eiswand was first climbed on July 8, 1872 by the Hungarian naturalist Moritz von Déchy and the mountain guides Alois and Johann Pinggera from Sulden via the south face . Today, according to literature, the once beautiful ice summit is usually crossed as part of a ridge hike over to the Thurwieserspitze and the Großer Eiskogel . The ice wall got its name from Julius Payer , the polar and alpine researcher from Bohemia.
geology
- See Monte Zebrù
location
The Trafoier Eiswand is surrounded by glaciers in the north, east and west . At the foot of the north wall , the actual “ice wall”, lies the crevasse Circusferner ( Vedretta del Circo ), which belongs to the southeastern nutrient area of the Nasal Hornferner ( Vedretta del Naso ). The Zebrùferner ( Vedretta dello Zebrù ) stretches to the east and the Trafoier Ferner ( Vedretta di Trafoi ) and the slightly more southern Vedretta di Campo glacier flank the Trafoier Eiswand. Adjacent peaks in the course of the Bäckmanngrat in the east are the 3652 meter high Thurwieserspitze and beyond the Zebrùferner the Monte Zebrù with a height of 3735 meters. To the northeast, separated by the Thurwieserjoch , at 3480 meters above sea level, are the Großer and Kleiner Eiskogel ( Grande / Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio ). In the course of the west ridge , the Big and Small Snow Bell ( Grande / Piccola Cima della Campana ) follow . The Trafoier Eiswand forms the southern end of the Trafoital . The village of Trafoi is about six kilometers as the crow flies to the north, the Stilfser Joch is a good six kilometers to the northwest.
Base and ascent
From Déchy's path in 1872 led from the Bàite del Pastore , an alpine pasture in Val Zebrù at 2167 meters above sea level in the south of the Trafoier ice wall, north to the Vedretta dei Camosci , which no longer exists today due to global warming, until shortly before the Passo dei Camosci alto , then over a snow slope into a firn-filled gully inclined up to 50 ° and in moderately difficult climbing with today's difficulty level UIAA II to the west ridge and on to the summit. The Pinggeras and Dechy needed just under four hours for the tour with an altitude difference of 1397 meters. Today's normal route is easier than the route of the first climber, but was not committed until 1898. The Livriohütte to the west at an altitude of 3,174 meters above the Stelvio ski area serves as a base for this . The route is an alpine tour and requires appropriate equipment and glacier experience. From the hut the path leads in an easterly direction over the Madatschferner to the Tuckettjoch at 3354 meters, then on to the yoke below the large snow bell and over the west ridge to the ice wall in moderately difficult climbing in UIAA grade II to the summit. According to the literature, the walking time is around four hours , depending on the cornice conditions .
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Louis Friedmann in Eduard Richter (editor): The Development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , published by the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin 1894
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Moriz Déchy: From the Ortler Alps , magazine of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume V, Munich 1874, p. 340 ff.
- ^ Peter Holl: Alpine Club Guide Ortleralpen , Munich 2003, margin no . 598 ff.