Monte Zebrù

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Monte Zebrù
The Monte Zebrù in the middle of the picture seen from the east Madritschspitze - on the left the Königspitze, on the right the Ortler

The Monte Zebrù in the middle of the picture seen from the east Madritschspitze - on the left the Königspitze, on the right the Ortler

height 3735  m slm
location Border between South Tyrol and the province of Sondrio , Italy
Mountains Ortler Alps
Dominance 1.3 km →  Ortler
Notch height 200 m ↓  Hochjoch
Coordinates 46 ° 29 '32 "  N , 10 ° 32' 58"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 29 '32 "  N , 10 ° 32' 58"  E
Monte Zebrù (Ortler Alps)
Monte Zebrù
First ascent September 29, 1866 by Julius Payer, led by Johann Pinggera
Normal way from the Rifugio Quinto Alpini as a glacier visit over the northwest flank

The Monte Zebrù is a mountain with two peaks in the Ortler Alps , a mountain range in the southern Eastern Alps . It lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Sondrio in the Stelvio National Park . The main or northwest peak is 3735 meters high, the southeast peak is only 3724 meters. Both points are connected by an approximately 400 meter long, mostly overgrown firn ridge . The main summit emits a pronounced ridge to the north and south-east, which as a firn ridge leads north over to the Ortler and south-east to the Königspitze . Monte Zebrù was first climbed on September 29, 1866 by the Sulden mountain guide Johann Pinggera and the Austro-Hungarian alpine explorer and cartographer Julius Payer . The closest base for climbing the mountain is now the Rifugio Quinto Alpini ( Alpini Hut ).

geology

The mountains of the Ortler group consist of limestone and dolomite , which are around 1000 meters thick on the so-called Veltliner base crystalline , the crystalline basement of the Central Alps. This sediment layer underwent a slight geological metamorphosis about 90 million years ago . The resulting formation of new minerals suggests a temperature of approx. 400 ° C. However, this process is only possible under high pressure, which is why it is assumed that the northern limestone Alps originally lay on the Ortler limestone , which were then transported northwards through thrusts to their current location as part of the Alpid mountain formation . Already in connection with the Caledonian , 500 million years ago, and the Variscan orogeny 300 million years ago, the base crystalline, which originally consisted of sandy and clayey sediments, arose . It was mica , quartz phyllite and phyllite gneiss formed from the sand-clay components, quartzite emerged from sandstone , amphibolite from basalt and marble limestone. The mountains of the Ortler group owe their exceptional height and rugged shape to the hard carbonate rocks from the Upper Triassic , such as dolomite, from which the peaks are built.

location

The Monte Zebrù is surrounded by glaciers . The Zebrùferner ( Vedretta dello Zebrù ) surrounds the mountain from northwest to south and extends up to the main summit, to the northeast is the Suldenferner ( Vedretta di Solda ). Neighboring peaks are in the course of the north ridge , separated by the Hochjoch crossing at 3527 meters, the 3905 meter high Ortler ( Ortles ), in the course of the southeast ridge , separated by the Suldenjoch at 3427 meters, the Königsspitze ( Il Gran Zebrù ) with a height of 3851 meters. In the west, beyond the Zebrùferner, lies the 3652 meter high Thurwieserspitze ( Cima Thurwieser ) named after Karl Thurwieser . The eastern flank of the Zebrù falls down into the Suldental . The next significant place is South Tyrolean Sulden, about five kilometers to the northeast as the crow flies. Santa Caterina Valfurva in the Valfurva valley lies just under 10 kilometers to the south-west, in the Italian-speaking province of Sondrio .

Base and ascent

map

The path from Payer and Pinggera in 1866 led from the southwest in an arc to the northeast over the northwest flank to the summit. This route is still the normal route today , which can also be used as a ski tour . The alpine hut at 2,878 meters above sea level, east of Sant'Antonio in Val Zebrù , serves as a base for this route, which can only be climbed as a high-altitude tour with the appropriate glacier equipment and experience . According to the literature, the walking time is around four hours. Very difficult climbing routes with levels of difficulty UIAA II to IV have led , among other things, over the west ridge , through the southwest face (Aldo Bonacossa and Carl Prochownik, 1913) and through the north faces since 1890 . A new route was opened in 1995 in the west face.

Literature and map

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ August Petermann : Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen , Supplement 23, Gotha 1868, p. 25
  2. ^ Wilhelm Hammer : Collection of geological guides , Volume 22, Brothers Borntraeger, Berlin 1922
  3. ↑ Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , Munich 2003, p. 227 ff., Margin no. 662 ff.

Web links

Commons : Monte Zebrù  - Collection of images, videos and audio files