Johann Pinggera

Johann Pinggera (around 1900)

Johann Pinggera (also Hans Pinggera , born October 15, 1837 in Sulden ; † August 24, 1916 ibid) was a South Tyrolean mountain guide who became known through numerous first ascents and first ascents , especially in the Ortler Alps .

Life

Pinggera first worked as a farmer and woodworker in Ausersulden, before he soon became the most popular mountain guide in the Ortler Alps. In the years 1865 to 1881 in particular, he opened up many new routes here and helped the Sulden mountain guide system, which shortly before had been considered barely developed, to gain an excellent reputation. He became particularly well known for his undertakings with Julius Payer , who mapped the Ortler Alps. Pinggera supported him despite the low remuneration out of commitment to science. For this he was honored by the Austrian Alpine Club in 1902 and invited to Vienna by Albert Salomon Anselm von Rothschild for this purpose . Otherwise he hardly ever traveled, the planned participation in the Second German North Pole Expedition with Payer in 1869 did not materialize because Pinggera had already turned back in Bolzano due to homesickness. Pinggera was married and had seven children; his sons Hans and Franz were also well-known mountain and ski guides. In 1881 Pinggera bought the Gampenhof , the back yard at the head of the Innersulden valley. In the last years of his life he became blind, which is also attributed to the long stays in the ice without wearing glacier glasses.

Alpinistic achievements

In 1865 Pinggera and Johann August Edmund Mojsisovics von Mojsvár first reached the Ortler from Sulden via the location of today's Payerhütte , a little later he found a variant of this ascent with Julius Payer , which is now considered the normal route to the Ortler. Other first ascents of Pinggera in the Ortler Alps were the Monte Cevedale , the Vertainspitze and the Suldenspitze in 1865 , the Monte Zebrù , the Vordere , Mittlere and Hintere Madatschspitze , the Große Eiskogel , the Tuckettspitze , the Große Schneeglocke , the Große Naglerspitze as well as the Vordere and Hintere Rotspitze , as well as in 1867 the Monte Vioz , the Palòn de la Mare , the Pizzo Taviela , the Cima di Lago Lungo , the Punta Cadini , the Monte Saline , the Köllkuppe and the Veneziaspitzen . The Hohe Angelus , the Schildspitze , the Hintere Eggenspitze and the Zufrittspitze followed in 1868, the Schrötterhorn in 1870 , the Tschenglser Hochwand in 1871 and the Trafoier Eiswand and the Kreilspitze in 1872 . He did most of these tours with Julius Payer. Later he was also able to book first ascents in the Stubai , Zillertal and Ötztal Alps , for example the Liebenerspitze , Östliche Marzellspitze and Lodner in 1872 , the Schwarzwandspitze , the Schrammacher , the Mutkogel , the Innere Schwarze Schneide and the Petersenspitze in 1874 . He led the Prague alpinist Victor Hecht on several first ascents .

He also led Julius Meurer , Alfred von Pallavicini and Josef Anton Specht, among others . The Lange Suldengrat and the northeast face of the Königspitze should also be mentioned among his first ascents .

Individual evidence

1. ↑ ^{a b c} R (obert) Hösch:  Pinggera, Johann. In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 (ÖBL). Volume 8, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna 1983, ISBN 3-7001-0187-2 , p. 82 f. (Direct links on p. 82 , p. 83 ).
2. ↑ Andrea Kuntner, Manfred Haringer: The mountain guides of Sulden and Trafoi. Legend and history . Kuntner, Schlanders 2004, p. 72, 90-92 .
3. ^ Reinhold Messner: King Ortler . Tappeiner, Lana 2004, ISBN 88-7073-349-1 , pp. 32 .

Web links

• About Payer and Pinggera: AFS (di Adalbert Franz Seligmann ):  An Austrian alpine researcher, North Pole driver and painter. In:  Neue Freie Presse , Morgenblatt (No. 18700/1916), September 12, 1916, p. 1 ff. (Online at ANNO ).