Monte Vioz
| Monte Vioz | ||
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 Monte Vioz seen from the south |
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| height | 3645 m slm | |
| location | Border between Trentino and the Province of Sondrio , Italy | |
| Mountains | Cevedale-Vioz ridge in the southern Ortler Alps | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 24 '6 " N , 10 ° 37' 59" E | |
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| First ascent | probably in 1854 as part of the Austrian land survey by Christophoro Groos | |
The Monte Vioz (German outdated: Viosspitze ), also called Monte Viozzi in older literature , is a 3645 meter high mountain in the northern part of the Cevedale-Vioz ridge , a mountain range of the southern Ortler Alps that runs from the Suldenspitze to the Gaviapass Mountains of the southern Eastern Alps . The mountain lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of Trentino and Sondrio in the Stilfserjoch National Park . Until the mid-1990s, it was a snow- covered summit, but now in summer it is usually free of snow and ice on the south side due to global warming . To the north and southwest it sends pronounced ridges that form the ridge. From the Rifugio Vioz - "Mantova" (German: Viozhütte ) it is an easily accessible panoramic mountain . It is often committed when crossing the Monte Cevedale or the Palòn de la Mare . The Vioz was first climbed in 1854 on the occasion of the Austrian national survey ( triangulation ) by an alpine guide Christophoro Groos . The first secured touristic inspection took place on September 4th 1867 by the polar and alpine explorer Julius Payer from Bohemia , the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden and the porter Antonio Chiesa from Peio .
Surroundings
Only glaciers worth mentioning meet in the north of Monte Vioz . In the northeast, the Vedretta Rossa extends up to just below the summit, and in the west extends the Ghiacciaio dei Forni , the largest glacier in the area. The former Vedretta Vioz in the south is only a glacier in the uppermost part. The neighboring peak is in the course of the north ridge , separated by the Passo della Vedretta Rossa (3405 m), the 3703 meter high Palòn de la Mare . In the course of the southwest ridge, which is partly covered with firn, lies the Punta Taviela with an altitude of 3612 meters , separated by the Colle Vioz (3330 m) . To the east the Vioz falls down to the Val de la Mare . The Trentino village of Peio in Val di Peio is a good five kilometers as the crow flies in a south-easterly direction, the South Tyrolean Sulden about 13.5 km to the north.
Ascent history
The exact path of the first climbers from 1854 is no longer traceable. The Austrian surveyor Feuerstein wrote in a triangulation protocol from 1855: Viosspitze. In 1854 the k. k. Military triangulation by the Alpine guide Christophoro Groos set up a signal pole. However, the Alpine Journal , the magazine of the English Alpine Club , reported in 1865 that the surveyors did not climb Monte Vioz via the southeast ridge until 1863 . However, Julius Payer's path in 1867 is secured. It began at a bivouac to the southeast on the Piani de Laretti , about 450 meters above Peio. In a north-westerly direction you came to the Vedretta Saline , which no longer exists today , and via the southeast ridge to the summit. Payer's group took two and three quarters of an hour to climb. Louis Friedmann reports to Eduard Richter : At 1 o'clock the summit was left again after a stone man had been built and a different path was chosen to descend. Lying on their backs, they drove down the steep snow slopes of the uppermost Vedretta Vallenaja [...] After they had fetched the equipment deposited under stones at the night camp [...] they reached Peio at 5:45 am.
Normal route and bases
Today's normal route to Monte Vioz leads from Rifugio Vioz - "Mantova" , located at an altitude of 3535 meters, one of the highest huts in the Eastern Alps, in 20 minutes to the summit, on which there is a cross with a small bell. This hut also serves as an intermediate base for crossing the ridge ( high tour ) from Monte Cevedale to Pizzo Tresero . From the Brancahütte ( Rif. Cesare Branca , 2487 m) located four kilometers to the east, the Vioz can be climbed over the northwest ridge as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience in five hours.
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps , Justus Perthes, Gotha 1869, supplement 27 to Dr. A. Petermann's Geographical Communications
- Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , publishing house of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin, 1894
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
Web links
- Pictures and description of Monte Vioz (Italian)