Pizzo Tresero
| Pizzo Tresero | ||
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 Pizzo Tresero seen from the north-west of Val Furva, drawing by Edward Theodore Compton |
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| height | 3594 m slm | |
| location | Sondrio Province , Italy | |
| Mountains | Cevedale-Vioz ridge in the southern Ortler Alps | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 23 '27 " N , 10 ° 32' 34" E | |
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| First ascent | June 28, 1865 by Francis Fox Tuckett , Douglas William Freshfield , James Backhouse, George Henry Fox, led by François Devouassoud and Peter Michel | |
The Pizzo Tresero , also called Piz Tresero , is a 3594 meter high mountain in the Cevedale-Vioz ridge , a mountain range of the southern Ortler Alps that runs from the Suldenspitze in a southerly direction over the Monte Vioz to the Passo di Gavia (German: Gaviapass ) , a mountain range in the southern Eastern Alps . The mountain, which is under protection in the Stelvio National Park , appears from the north as an even, snow-covered pyramid with an impressive, 600-meter-high and 55 ° inclined north face . To the northwest, northeast, southeast and southwest it sends pronounced ridges. The Pizzo Tresero is connected to the Punta San Matteo by the firn-covered southeast ridge and is usually climbed together with it. In spring, the Pizzo is a popular ski tour destination , which can be easily reached from the Rifugio Cesare Branca ( Branca Hut ) or the Rifugio Forni. The mountain was first climbed in the middle of the 19th century by Italian cartographers from the Instituto Geografico Milanese as part of the land survey of Lombardy , which is now reminiscent of the name of a secondary peak, the Punta Segnale ( signal point ). The first tourists on the summit on June 28, 1865 were the English mountaineers Francis Fox Tuckett from Bristol, Douglas William Freshfield from Oxford, as well as the Quakers George Henry Fox from Falmouth, and James H. Backhouse from Darlington. They were led by François Devouassoud from Chamonix and Peter Michel from Grindelwald.
Surroundings
The Pizzo Tresero is completely surrounded by glaciers . In the east, the largest glacier in the area, the Ghiacciaio dei Forni (German: Forno Glacier ), extends up to the summit, in the south the Ghiacciaio di Dosegù extends to a height of around 3460 meters on the south side. In the southwest is the Vedretta di Tresero and in the north, finally, the Vedretta di Cerena . Neighboring mountains in the northeast ridge are the 3281 meter high Cima San Giacomo , in the southeast running ridge the Cima Dosegù with 3560 meters and the 3678 meter high Punta San Matteo . The ridges to the southwest and northwest run down into the Valle di Gavia ( Gaviatal ). The nearest significant place is in the province of Sondrio , about four and a half kilometers as the crow flies to the northwest, Santa Caterina Valfurva . The Trentino village of Peio in Val di Peio is a good 10 kilometers to the east, and the Gavia Pass is about six and a half kilometers to the south-southwest.
Base and ascent
The path of the cartographers from Milan can no longer be traced, but the English went to the summit in 1865 via the south side or the south-east ridge, after having previously been on Punta San Matteo. Louis Friedmann reports to Eduard Richter : The Pizzo Tresero 3602 m., Without a doubt the most beautiful peak in the southern Ortler Alps, was climbed on the same day as the Punta S. Matteo by Tuckett and his companions. They followed their tracks back to the origin of the glacier and, crossing the firn in a west-north-westerly direction, [...] reached the highest, Sta. Caterina immediately dominating tip. For the descent over the southwest ridge , they then needed three hours to Santa Caterina.
Today, the Rifugio Cesare Branca, located at an altitude of 2,487 meters in a north-easterly direction, or the slightly lower Rifugio Forni serve as a base for an ascent of the Pizzo Tresero on the normal route (slightest ascent). The high-altitude tour , first climbed in 1867 , with appropriate equipment and glacier experience, leads from the hut in a walking time of, according to literature, about 5 hours over the Forno Glacier and the southeast ridge to the Pizzo summit. Difficult combined trips (rock / ice) in the so-called classic alpine manner have led through the face of the northeast ridge since 1889 , and since 1936 also over the Tresero-Nordwand- Direttissima .
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- The Alpine Journal , Volume III, page 145, London 1865
- Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , publishing house of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin, 1894
- Edmondo Brusoni: Guida della Valtellina , page 330, Sondrio, 1906
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
