Palon de la Mare
| Palon de la Mare | ||
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 The Palòn de la Mare as seen from the Cevedale |
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| height | 3703 m slm | |
| location | Border between Trentino and the Province of Sondrio , Italy | |
| Mountains | Cevedale-Vioz ridge in the southern Ortler Alps | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 25 '2 " N , 10 ° 37' 2" E | |
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| First ascent | September 10, 1867 by Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera and the porter Antonio Chiesa | |
| Normal way | from Rifugio Cesare Branca as a high tour over the glacier and the west side to the summit | |
The Palòn de la Mare , also written as Palon della Mare in older literature , is a 3703 meter high mountain in the northern part of the Cevedale-Vioz ridge , a mountain range of the southern Ortler Alps that runs from the Suldenspitze south over the Monte Vioz to the Gaviapass , a mountain range in the southern Eastern Alps . The mountain lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of Trento and Sondrio in the Stilfserjoch National Park . The summit, covered with firn , is the fifth highest elevation in the Ortler Alps and looks very dominant when viewed from the south . To the north and south-east it sends pronounced ridges that form the ridge course. Due to its easy accessibility from the Rifugio Cesare Branca (German: Brancahütte ), it is also a popular destination for ski tourers in spring . It is often crossed as part of a transition to Monte Cevedale . The Palòn was first climbed on September 10, 1867 by the polar and alpine explorer Julius Payer from Bohemia and the mountain guides Johann Pinggera from Sulden and A. Chiesa from Peio in Val di Peio .
location
The Palòn de la Mare is completely surrounded by glaciers . In the northeast the Vedretta Rossa extends up to the summit, in the south and west the Ghiacciaio dei Forni , the largest glacier in the area and encloses the foot of the Palòn, in the north lies the Vedretta de la Mare . The neighboring summit is located on the north ridge , separated by the Col de la Mare (3442 m) and the Passo Rosole at 3502 meters, the 3769 meter high Monte Cevedale . In the course of the southeastern ridge , separated by the Passo della Vedretta Rossa (3405 m), lies Monte Vioz. To the east, the Palòn falls down to the Lago del Càreser reservoir , the water level of which is 2603 meters above sea level. The Trentino village of Peio in Val di Peio is about seven kilometers as the crow flies in a south-easterly direction, the South Tyrolean Sulden about 12 km to the north.
Base and ascent
Julius Payer's path in 1867 led from an improvised bivouac to the east above the Malga Mare , a small alp in the upper Val de la Mare at an altitude of about 2600 meters, in a westerly direction to the Vedretta Rossa and the east ridge ( Catena Rossa ) to the summit. The group, weakened by a sleepless, rainy night, took six hours to climb. After Payer had finished his surveying work after two and a half hours, with soaked feet and [the] complete ignorance of the Arctic Ocean which they had to cross on the way to St. Caterina , the decision was made to leave urgently. 3½ U. drove the mountain to the west ... . After three and a quarter hours the goal was reached.
Today's normal route to the Palòn de la Mare leads from the Rifugio Cesare Branca, above Santa Caterina Valfurva in the Val del Forno at an altitude of 2,493 meters, as a high tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience, initially in a southerly direction. Then it goes north over the crevasse west of the Palòn glacier over the west side to the summit in, according to literature, 4 to 5 hours. In principle, this route was the descent of the first to climb. Further climbs, some climbing routes with levels of difficulty up to UIAA IV- , exist on the ridges, on the north-west pillar and through the north-west face .
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps , Justus Perthes, Gotha 1869, supplement 27 to Dr. August Petermann's Geographical Communications
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
Individual evidence
- ↑ Louis Friedmann in Eduard Richter : The opening up of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin 1894, pp. 160 f.
- ↑ Peter Holl: Alpine Club Guide Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, p. 364 ff., Rz. 1141 ff.