Schrammacher

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Schrammacher
Schrammacher east side, seen from the Riepengrat (from the northeast)

Schrammacher east side, seen from the Riepengrat (from the northeast)

height 3410  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Zillertal Alps
Dominance 3 km →  Olperer
Notch height 451 m ↓  Alpeiner Scharte
Coordinates 47 ° 1 '37 "  N , 11 ° 38' 34"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 1 '37 "  N , 11 ° 38' 34"  E
Schrammacher (Tyrol)
Schrammacher
rock granite
First ascent August 19, 1847 by Peter Karl Thurwieser , Georg Lechner and Jakob Huber
Normal way South ridge ( II )

The Schrammacher is after the Olperer with 3410  m above sea level. A. the second highest peak of the Tuxer Kamm within the Zillertal Alps , in the Austrian state of Tyrol . With its distinctive shape of a symmetrical pyramid and a high slab wall facing northwest, it dominates the area of ​​the Alpeiner Ferner glacier .

First ascent

The first ascent of the Schrammacher took place on August 19, 1847 by Peter Karl Thurwieser , accompanied by the local mountain guides Georg Lechner and Jakob Huber. In some publications the ascent of Moritz von Déchy on July 14, 1874, 27 years later, is incorrectly listed as the first ascent.

Location and surroundings

The Schrammacher is just under four kilometers as the crow flies north-northwest of the Pfitscher Joch , which marks the state border between Italy and Austria, and also four kilometers west of the Schlegeis reservoir . Neighboring peaks are in the north, separated from the Alpeiner Scharte , Fußstein with 3380  m height, Olperer with 3476  m height and in the west the Sagwandspitze with 3227  m height. In the east it slopes down to the Zamser Grund , in the west the Schrammacher towers over the head of the Valser Valley with a steep, flat rock face several hundred meters high.

Bases and routes

The normal route , also the route of the first climber, leads from the Pfitscher-Joch-Haus (Italian: Rifugio Passo di Vizze ) at 2,248 meters over the western edge of the Stampflkees glacier north-northeast towards Oberschrammacherscharte . Then over the south ridge in, according to literature, little to moderately difficult climbing (UIAA I to II) to the summit in a good five hours. Other bases are the Olpererhütte ( 2388  m , west above the Schlegeis reservoir) and the Geraer Hütte ( 2326  m ) at the end of the Valsertal. The paths from here cannot be covered in less than six hours and there is an increased risk of falling rocks below the Schrammacher walls.

  • Schrammacher seen from the Stampflkees (from the south)

  • The northwest face above the Valsertal

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : Schrammacher  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Clem Clements, Jonathan de Ferranti, Eberhard Jurgalski , Mark Trengove: The 3000 m SUMMITS of AUSTRIA - 242 peaks with at least 150 m of prominence , October 2011, p. 12.
  2. ^ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Schrammacher on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  3. ↑ Ludwig Graf von Sarnthein: On the first ascent of the Eastern Alps in: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Vol. 27, No. 5 (March 15, 1901), p. 59
  4. ^ Heinrich and Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, pp. Ff., Margin no. 1000 ff.