Olperer

Olperer
	Olperer (left) and Fußstein (right) from the west
height	3476 m above sea level A.
location	Tyrol , Austria
Mountains	Zillertal Alps
Dominance	11.4 km → Hochfeiler
Notch height	1230 m ↓ Pfitscher Joch
Coordinates	47 ° 3 '11 " N , 11 ° 39' 32" E Coordinates: 47 ° 3 '11 " N , 11 ° 39' 32" E
rock	Granite , gneiss
First ascent	September 10, 1867 by Paul Grohmann , Georg Samer and Jakob Huber
Normal way	Southeast Ridge ( II )

The Olperer is a 3476 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Zillertal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol . It is the main peak of the Tux ridge .

Location and surroundings

The Olperer has a striking appearance with its pyramid-shaped summit structure . Because of this, and because of its geographical dominance over its neighboring peaks, it is a popular panoramic mountain. It is about four kilometers as the crow flies north-west of the Schlegeisspeicher dam and seven kilometers south of Hintertux. Neighboring mountains in the north, separated by the Wildlahnerscharte ( 3220 m above sea level ) are the Großer Kaserer with 3263 m above sea level. A. Height, in the southeast in the ridge of 3380 m above sea level. A. high Fußstein and in the northeast, separated by the Großes Riepenkees glacier, are the frozen wall peaks at 3270 m above sea level. A. Height in the south summit.

Olperer from the south; on the right the southeast ridge with the clearly visible firn field. Below the south wall the Unterschrammachkees.

Tux main ridge with Schrammacher and Olperer, left in the background the Dolomites

Bases and routes

The first ascent over the southeast ridge took place on September 10, 1867 by Paul Grohmann , Georg Samer and Gainer Jackl. The Hintertux Glacier ski area is located on its northern flank on the Tuxer Ferner glacier (also known as Frozen-Wand-Kees ). The path of Paul Grohmann and his companions led from the southeast over the Riepenkar and Riepengrat . Their base was in the Zamser Grund .

The Olpererhütte , at 2388 m above sea level , has served as a base since 1881 . A. Located at altitude. Grohmann's route is still the normal route today . According to literature, the walking time from the hut is around four hours. The path runs along the southeast ridge. After a relatively simple block climb, you reach the snow gully field . The directly adjoining key point was defused by wire ropes, but at least self-belaying is pleasant here, as it goes very steeply upwards. This is followed by a not very difficult (UIAA I-II), but very exposed, uninsured ridge passage. Securing points for your own rope belay are available. The further way to the nearby summit is a little easier again, but remains very exposed. Another ascent leads from the Wildlahnerscharte over the north ridge, which is sometimes icy even in high summer ( easy to difficult climbing UIAA II to III ). The Wildlahnerscharte can be reached from the Geraer Hütte ( 2324 m above sea level ), first north-east over the Olpererferner south past the Wildlahnergrat (some crevasses ) (four hours to the summit); from the Tuxer Fernerhaus ( 2605 m above sea level ) through the ski area; or from the Olpererhütte through the Großer Riepenkees and then also through the ski area.

Literature and map

H. Klier and W. Klier : Alpenvereinsführer Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/1, Zillertal Alps West