Hochfeiler

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Hochfeiler
Hochfeiler with north face

Hochfeiler with north face

height 3509  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria and South Tyrol , Italy
Mountains Zillertal Alps
Dominance 49.3 km →  Großvenediger
Notch height 978 m ↓  Hörndljoch
Coordinates 46 ° 58 '21 "  N , 11 ° 43' 39"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 58 '21 "  N , 11 ° 43' 39"  E
Hochfeiler (Zillertal Alps)
Hochfeiler
First ascent July 24, 1865 by Paul Grohmann , led by Georg Samer and Peter Fuchs
Normal way Southwest ridge of the Hochfeiler hut from
particularities Hochfeiler Nordwand - classic firn / ice tour of the Eastern Alps
Hochfeiler (center) from the west, to the left the Hochfernerspitze

Hochfeiler (center) from the west, to the left the Hochfernerspitze

Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1

The Hochfeiler (Italian: Gran Pilastro ) is at a height of 3509  m above sea level. A. the highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps , a mountain group of the Eastern Alps . Its summit lies exactly on the main ridge of this mountain group and marks a point in the course of the state border between the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian province of South Tyrol . To the east, north and southwest it sends pronounced ridges . The north side is glaciated in the entire area and forms a striking ice wall, inclined up to 60 °, 300 meters high. As a result of the climate change since 1850 , the ice and firn cover is continuously melting , as everywhere in the Alps.

The "Hochfeiler-Eiswand" is one of the most famous tours of classic alpinism . The mountain was first climbed on July 24, 1865 by the Austrian alpinist and co-founder of the Austrian Alpine Club , Paul Grohmann , and the mountain guides Georg Samer from Breitlahner , Josele Steinklauber from Finkenberg in the Zillertal and Peter Fuchs from Sankt Jakob in Pfitsch . Further ascents followed in 1874 by Moriz von Déchy from Budapest, accompanied by the mountain guide Hans Pinggera , and in 1875 by Victor Hecht and J. Mayrhofer. In 1882 a group of five made the first winter ascent. In 1887 Franz Dyck and the Zillertal mountain guide Hans Hörhager climbed the north face for the first time, and it has an incline of up to 60 degrees.

Surroundings

The mountain is surrounded by glaciers. The Schlegeiskees , the largest glacier in the area, extends up to the summit in the north and east, the Gliderferner in the south and the Weißkarferner in the west . Neighboring mountains are in the east, in the course of the east ridge , the Hohe Weißzint with a height of 3371 meters and in the northwest the 3463 meter high Hochfernerspitze . The north face of the Hochfeiler slopes down to the Schlegeis reservoir , its southwest flank to the Pfitscher valley . Neighboring settlements in the west are Stein in the Pfitscher Tal, about 7 km as the crow flies , and Lappach in the Mühlwalder Tal , a side valley of the Tauferer Tal , about 9 km away in the southeast .

geology

Like all other three-thousand-meter peaks in the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps, the Hochfeiler consists of the very massive alpine so-called central gneiss , which is covered in the upper area with a mighty layer of slate, which has emerged from alkaline cast rock and consists mainly of green slate . This leads to near the summit of these mountains by weathering justified rockfall . A marble train runs between the Hochfeilerhütte and the summit in SW-NE direction. The minerals in the slate shell of the Hochfeiler include albite (often in centimeter-sized pieces), quartz and chlorite , as well as biotite , amphibole (hornblende), calcite and epidote .

Base and ascent

The path of the first climbers began in the Unterbergtal , a branch of the Pfitscher valley that branches off to the southeast, above Stein. Grohmann and his companions bivouacked in a bad hut on the night of July 24, 1865 (quote from Grohmann). You reached the summit after 3½ hours via the Gliderferner and the southwest ridge . Today's normal route , the easiest ascent, leads from the Hochfeilerhütte , located at an altitude of 2710 meters, also over the southwest ridge in a walking time of about 3 hours. With a direct ascent from the Pfitscher Tal via the south-west ridge, the path can be shortened somewhat, the Hochfeilerhütte will then not be passed. Other long routes lead from the Schlegeistal in the north over the Rötenwand , and over the east ridge as a combined rock / ice climbing tour with difficulty UIAA IV . The 300 meter high, well-known Hochfeiler ice wall is climbed from the north from the Schlegeistal (first ascent: F. Dyck and Hans Hörhager, 1887).

Further bases are the Furtschaglhaus (2295 m) and the Edelrauthütte (2545 m).

Surname

Early mentions of the mountain's name are, for example, around 1770 Hoch Feil spiz or around 1840 Hochfeil = top ; around 1900 Hochfeiler becomes the most common form. As with other mountain names with the component high , the second part refers to lower terrain. The faile (such as "rot") could refer to mossy paint on the foot of the mountain.

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : Hochfeiler  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski : Complete table of summits in the Alps separated by 590 meters of re-ascent , December 12, 2008.
  2. ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Hochfeiler on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  3. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j k Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3,000-meter peaks in South Tyrol - 70 worthwhile alpine tours . Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9 , p. 166-169 .
  4. ^ Journal of the Austrian Alpine Association, Volume II, Vienna 1870/71, p. 127
  5. ^ Raimund von Klebelsberg : Geologie von Tirol , Gebr. Borntraeger, Berlin 1935, p. 403
  6. ^ Carl Diener in Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 5 ff.
  7. ↑ Johannes Ortner: Messila and Mëisules . In: Experience the mountains - The magazine of the Alpine Association of South Tyrol . No. 1 , 2017, p. 58-59 .