Hochfernerspitze
| Hochfernerspitze
Gran Vedretta
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 Hochferner seen from the Landshuter Höhenweg |
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| height | 3470 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol ( Italy ) | |
| Mountains | Zillertal Alps , main ridge | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 58 '41 " N , 11 ° 43' 4" E | |
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| Type | flat firn knoll, with aperem rock summit | |
| First ascent | August 8, 1878 by Rudolf Seyerlen with the mountain guides Stephan Kirchler and Johann Niederwieser ( vulgo Stabeler) from Sand in Taufers | |
| Normal way | From the Hochfeilerhütte in an alpine tour over the upper area of the Weißkarferner and over the east ridge to the summit with easy climbing in UIAA difficulty level I. | |
| particularities | on the north side there are two so-called hanging glaciers, Hochferner and Grießferner | |
The Hochfernerspitze (also called Hochferner for short , Gran Vedretta in Italian ) is one of the highest mountains in the Zillertal Alps with a height of 3470 m slm . Its summit is on the main ridge of this mountain group on Italian territory in South Tyrol . The state border between Austria and Italy runs 500 meters northeast of the summit over a ridge. The mountain is glaciated in the entire area over 2500 meters and forms striking ice-covered slopes (hanging glaciers) to the northwest, up to 950 meters high, some of which are inclined up to 70 °. Classic alpinism ice tours lead through this north face . The Hochfernerspitze was first climbed on August 8, 1878 by the Jena professor of philosophy and alpinist Rudolf Seyerlen with the mountain guides Stephan Kirchler and Hans Stabeler from Sand in Taufers .
Location and surroundings
The Hochfernerspitze is a good eight kilometers as the crow flies east of St. Jakob in the Pfitscher Valley . Together with the 3510 meter high Hochfeiler in the southeast and the Hinterer Weißspitze with 3431 meters in the southwest, it forms a mountain range with great geographical dominance . Here the Zillertal main ridge reaches its greatest height. Neighboring mountains, further away, are the Hochsteller in the north with 3097 meters and in the west the Vordere Weißspitze (3276 meters). To the east the Hochfernerspitze falls steeply down to the Schlegeiskees , in the south lies the Weißkarferner , in the west and northwest the Weißspitzenferner , Hochferner and Grießferner extend . In the north is the Rötkees . All of these glaciers are rapidly disappearing due to global warming .
Bases and routes
The route of the first climber in 1878 led from Lappach to a hut on the Lower Neveser Alpe . From there, on August 8, 1878, we continued up to the Eisbruggjoch and first on the Hochfeiler. This was crossed in a northerly direction and after seven and a half hours one reached the summit of the Hochfernerspitze via the Weißkarferner, where Seyerlen deposited a bottle with his business card in the firn. Today's normal route , the easiest route, to the Hochfernerspitze leads from the Hochfeilerhütte at 2710 meters as a combined high-altitude tour (ice and rock), which should only be undertaken with appropriate equipment and experience, northeast towards the Hochfeiler. Then it runs north over the upper nutrient area of the Weißkarferner along the east ridge in, according to literature, difficulty level UIAA I to the summit in three hours. The Hochfernerspitze can also be climbed from the Edelrauthütte (2545 m) over the Gliderferner in about five to six hours. An ascent from the north is possible as a combined tour from the Furtschaglhaus (2295 m) over the Rötkees . According to the literature, 8 to 9 hours of walking and climbing areas of UIAA grade II must be considered here.
For mountaineers who want to climb the north faces of the Hochfernerspitze, the Günther-Messner-Hochferner-Bivouac , named after the South Tyrolean mountaineer Günther Messner , at an altitude of 2,429 meters, 2½ hours walk above the hamlet of Stein , serves as a base.
Literature and map
- Heinrich and Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Zillertal Alps , Bergverlag Rother Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/1, Zillertal Alps West
- Tabacco-Verlag, Udine, carta topografica 1: 25.000, sheet 037, Hochfeiler-Pfunderer Berge
Individual evidence
- ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , Volume X, Munich 1879, pp. 103 ff.
- ^ Heinrich and Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, p. 248 ff., Margin no. 1245 ff.
