High angelus
| High angelus | ||
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 High Angelus with northwest ridge (dark in the foreground) and Reinstadler route |
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| height | 3521 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Ortler Alps | |
| Notch height | 184 m ↓ Angelus notch | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 32 '41 " N , 10 ° 38' 54" E | |
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| First ascent | August 8, 1868 by Julius Payer, led by Johann Pinggera and hunters not known by name | |
 Summit with pyramid and view of the Ötztal Alps |
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The Hohe Angelus or Big Angelus (also Angelusspitze ; Italian Angelo Grande ) is at 3521 m the second highest mountain of the Lasa Mountains in the Ortler Alps , a mountain range in the southern Eastern Alps . It is located in the Italian province of South Tyrol and is protected in the Stilfserjoch National Park . To the north, east, southwest, and northwest, the tip sends pronounced ridges. The Hohe Angelus is a summit that is often climbed as a ski tour in winter because of its regular shape, its good panoramic view on all sides and the easy accessibility from the Düsseldorfer Hütte ( Rifugio Serristori ) . The mountain was first climbed on August 8th, 1868 by the polar and alpine explorer Julius Payer , the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden and hunters unknown by name.
Surroundings
The Hohe Angelus is completely surrounded by glaciers . The most important one is in the south of the Lasa Glacier . To the west and north is the Zayferner , which reaches up to the summit. In the east there are two smaller glaciers, to the north of the Angelus east ridge the Ofenwandferner and south of the very crevasse Great Angelusferner , which is the smallest glacier in the area with a west-east extension of about 600 m. Adjacent mountains to the peak are in the course of the southwest ridge , separated by the Angelusscharte located at 3337 m , the Vertainspitze , with a height of 3545 m the highest mountain in the chain. In the course of Nordgrats , is separated by the path transition furnace wall charter ( 3302 m s), blast furnace wall ( 3431 m ) and a little further the Small Angelus with 3318 m height. To the west the Angelus falls down into the Zaytal northeast above Sulden , which is about five kilometers to the southwest as the crow flies . To the northeast the terrain falls down into the Lasa Valley . Laas im Vinschgau , the most important place in the area, is located a good 9 km north-northeast of the Hohe Angelus.
Base and ascent
The path from Payer, Pinggera and the hunters unknown by name in August 1868 led from the Martell valley over the Mittlere Pederspitze ( 3462 m ), the Schildspitze ( 3461 m ) and the Laaser Ferner to the Angelusscharte. From there the mountaineers walked over the southwest ridge to the summit, on which a stone man was erected. This path is easy to walk, but prone to falling rocks and is only safe in spring when there is sufficient snow cover.
Today's normal route to the Hohen Angelus is the Reinstadler route over the northwest ridge . It was first committed by Victor Hecht from Prague and Johann Pinggera in 1870. The 1200 meter long path is partly equipped with wire rope insurance in the rock area (via ferrata A / B) and requires easy climbing of difficulty level UIAA I , the snow incline is a maximum of 30 °. The Düsseldorfer Hütte at 2721 meters above sea level in the upper Zaytal, northeast of Sulden, serves as a base for an ascent. If the conditions are unfavorable, the path can be undertaken as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. Due to the decrease of Zayfernes the burr can in the summer ausapern and release a Walk trail. According to the literature, the walking time of the path marked up to around 3200 meters is 2½ hours from the hut. Difficult climbing routes lead over the north ridge (UIAA III, first climbed in 1904) and over the northeast ridge (UIAA I to III, 1921). Demanding combined (rock / ice) tours lead through the north-east face inclined up to 45 ° ( Emil and Otto Zsigmondy , 1881) and through the north-west face inclined up to 90 ° . There is no classic summit cross on the summit of the Angelus , but a multi-level pyramid made of steel profiles.
etymology
Angelus is documented for the first time on an Austrian military map around 1900. However, the name can probably not be associated with an angel, but rather goes back to the Latin angulus meaning corner and, according to Egon Kühebacher, thus refers to the surrounding terrain or ridges.
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3000m peaks in South Tyrol. 70 worthwhile alpine tours. Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9
- Julius Payer: The Southern Ortler Alps , Justus Perthes, Gotha 1865, supplement 18 to Dr. August Petermann's Geographical Communications
- Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, publishing house of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin, 1894
- Casa Editrice Tabacco : Carta topografica 1: 25.000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
Individual evidence
- ↑ Julius Payer : The Central Ortler Alps (areas: Martell, Laas and Saent). In addition to an appendix on the Adamello-Presanella Alps . Justus Perthes, Gotha 1872
- ↑ Peter Holl: Alpine Club Guide Ortleralpen , Munich 2003, p. 291 ff., Rz 862, ff.
- ^ Egon Kühebacher: The place names of South Tyrol and their history. The historically grown names of the mountain ranges, summit groups and individual peaks of South Tyrol. Athesia, Bozen 2000, ISBN 88-8266-018-4 , p. 22.
