Tuckettspitze

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Tuckettspitze
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height 3462  m slm
location Border between South Tyrol and the province of Sondrio , Italy
Mountains Crystal ridge in the Ortler Alps
Coordinates 46 ° 29 '52 "  N , 10 ° 29' 22"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 29 '52 "  N , 10 ° 29' 22"  E
Tuckettspitze (South Tyrol)
Tuckettspitze
First ascent September 12, 1866 by Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera
Normal way easy high-altitude tour from the Livriohütte over the north ridge

The Tuckettspitze ( Italian Cima Tuckett ) is a 3462 meter high mountain in the Kristallkamm , a mountain range of the western Ortler Alps , a mountain range of the southern Eastern Alps , running from the Stilfser Joch to the Ortler Pass . It lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Sondrio in the Stilfserjoch National Park .

The mountain emits pronounced ridges to the east and southwest, which mark the course of the crystal ridge. Another, poorly developed ridge to the north is used as the easiest climb to the summit. The Tuckettspitze was first climbed via him on September 12, 1866 by Julius Payer , an Austrian, from Bohemia, polar and alpine researcher and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden . The tip was given its name by Payer in the 1860s in honor of the English alpinist and developer of the Ortler group Francis Fox Tuckett , * 1834, † 1913, Vice President of the English Alpine Club and member of the Royal Geographical Society . Today the firn-covered mountain is a destination that is easily accessible from the Livriohütte ( Rifugio Livrio ) and is a popular destination.

Surroundings

The Tuckettspitze is surrounded by glaciers . In the north lies the Madatschferner ( Vedretta del Madaccio ), and in the east and south the Vedretta di Campo . The closest peak is the Hintere Madatschspitze (3430 m) , which rises in a small side ridge, around 400 m to the northeast. Adjacent peaks are in the course of the crystal ridge in the east, separated by the Tuckettjoch ( Passo di Tuckett ) and the Trafoierjoch ( Passo di Trafoi , 3317 m), the Great and Small Snow Bell ( Piccola and Grande Cima della Campana , 3411 and 3425 m), as well as the Trafoier Eiswand ( Cima die Trafoi , 3565 meters high). In the southwest of the ridge, separated by the Passo di Campo (3346 m), are the up to 3480 meter high crystal peaks ( Cime di Campo ), and further west the 3446 meter high Payerspitze ( Punta Payer ) and the Punta del Cristallo , 3450 meters high. The village of Trafoi in the Trafoital is about six kilometers as the crow flies to the north, the Stilfser Joch is a good five kilometers to the northwest.

Base and ascent

Payers and Pinggeras Weg began in 1866 on the Franzenshöhe (today a hotel at the hairpin bend No. 22 of the Stilfser-Joch-Straße at 2189 meters above sea level). It broke at 6:30 am in a southerly direction and reached to 7:45 the foot of Monte Livrio . In thick fog they crossed the Madatschferner with orientation problems, but reached the north ridge of the Tuckettspitze and after hitting a few steps into the ice with the ice ax they were on the summit at about 11:30 a.m. without being able to see anything. Because of the fog, they took the same route back to Franzenshöhe to be on the safe side. The first Englishmen on the Tuckettspitze were the botanist Henry T. Mennell and the politician and writer Robert Spence Watson on July 31, 1867. Alexander Flury from Pontresina , photographer and mountain guide , took you from Trafoi to the Tuckettjoch and over the east ridge to the summit.

Today the Livriohütte, located at 3,174 meters above sea level, in the middle of the Stilfser Joch ski area, accessible by numerous lifts, serves as a base for ascent of the Tuckettspitze . The normal route , the easiest ascent, leads from the hut as an easy high tour , with appropriate equipment and glacier experience, over the Madatschferner and the north ridge to the summit in, according to literature, two hours of walking time. The incline of the ridge is a maximum of 30 °. Further climbs lead over the east and south-west ridge (climbing in difficulty level UIAA I ), since 1939 through the south- east face ( UIAA III) and since 1931 also through the north-west face (UIAA II).

Literature and map

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Louis Friedmann in Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Berlin 1894, p. 144 f.
  2. ^ The Alpine Journal , Volume IV, London 1867, p. 50
  3. ↑ Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , Munich 2003, p. 163 ff., Margin no. 506 ff.