Zufrittspitze
Gioveretto access point |
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 The summit structure of the Zufrittspitze from the southwest |
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| height | 3439 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol / Italy | |
| Mountains | Ortler Alps | |
| Dominance | 2.8 km → Hintere Eggenspitze | |
| Notch height | 291 m ↓ Weißbrunnjoch | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 30'7 " N , 10 ° 46'56" E | |
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| First ascent | August 9, 1868 by Julius Payer, the mountain guide Johann Pinggera and two porters who are not known by name over the Zufrittjoch and the south ridge . | |
| Normal way | over the Zufrittjoch and the south ridge | |
The Zufrittspitze (Italian name: Gioveretto ) is a 3439 meter high mountain in the Zufrittkamm , also called Marteller Hauptkamm on this section , a mountain range of the Ortler Alps in the southern Eastern Alps . It is located in the Italian autonomous province of South Tyrol in the Stilfserjoch National Park . To the north, east, south and west, the tip sends out pronounced, partly accessible ridges. Seen from the west, the mountain appears as a symmetrical rock pyramid, which is often climbed in summer due to its easy accessibility from the Grünseehütte . The Zufrittspitze was first climbed on August 9, 1868 by the cartographer and alpine explorer Julius Payer , the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden and two porters, unknown by name, over the Zufrittjoch and the south ridge .
Surroundings
The Zufrittspitze rises between the Martell valley in the west and the Ultental valley in the east. To the north and east of the summit lies the Soyferner glacier , to the west the Zufrittferner , and to the southwest a small remnant of the once considerably larger Lorchenferner . Neighboring mountains are in the course of the south-west turning south ridge, separated by the Zufrittjoch at an altitude of 3,174 meters, the Weißbrunnspitze at an altitude of 3,235 meters and further away, beyond the Weissbrunnerjoch crossing (3,165 m), the Lorchenspitze at an altitude of 3,347 meters. The west ridge of the Zufrittspitze falls into the Zufritttal , at the lower end of which lies the Zufrittsee (water level of the reservoir at 1850 m) in Ultental . The next significant settlement is the village of Gand in the Martell Valley, which belongs to the municipality of Martell , a side valley of the Vinschgau , which is a good six kilometers as the crow flies to the north. Sulden is about 15 kilometers away in the west.
First ascent
The path of the first ascent in 1868 resulted from the lower Marteller Alpe , at 2061 meters above sea level in the upper Martell valley from east along the Plimabachs , today Zufrittsee past the Zufritttal and up to Zufrittferner. After reaching the Zufrittjoch, one climbed the summit via the south ridge. The group took about four hours. From the report: Payer had already suffered a stomach catarrh from drinking milk and rancid bacon and felt very uncomfortable on the summit. The uninterrupted, multi-week efforts in a state of defective health did not fail to have an impact on the strong-willed man, and after a meal he had to sit down to avoid fainting (from Eduard Richter, The Development of the Eastern Alps ). With the Zufrittspitze, Payer completed the mountaineering development and mapping of the Ortler Alps and from 1869 turned to north pole research.
Bases and routes
Today's normal route to the Zufrittspitze basically follows the first climbers. However, the Grünseehütte to the east serves as a base today, on the northeastern bank of the Grünsee at an altitude of 2561 meters. The path leads north past the lake up to the southwest ridge. The summit can be reached in three to four hours with easy climbing in difficulty UIAA I-II . Since 1922, other routes have led through the west face , over the northern ridges and as an alpine tour from the north over the Soyferner. Ski tourers reach the Zufrittspitze via the upper Zufrittferner in spring.
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3000m peaks in South Tyrol. 70 worthwhile alpine tours. Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9
- Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , publishing house of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin, 1894
- Casa Editrice Tabacco, Udine: Carta topografica 1: 25.000, sheet 045, Laces / Latsch, Val Martello / Martell, Silandro / Schlanders
