Rear harrow tip

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Rear point of the harrow
Cima Sternai
Rear Eggenspitze from the north (in the center of the picture; on the left the Vordere Eggenspitze, on the right the Lorchenspitze)

Rear Eggenspitze from the north (in the center of the picture; on the left the Vordere Eggenspitze, on the right the Lorchenspitze)

height 3443  m slm
location South Tyrol / Trentino border , Italy
Mountains Ortler Alps
Dominance 11.1 km →  random peaks
Notch height 475 m ↓  Salentjoch
Coordinates 46 ° 28 '40 "  N , 10 ° 46' 14"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 28 '40 "  N , 10 ° 46' 14"  E
Hintere Eggenspitze (Ortler Alps)
Rear harrow tip
First ascent July 30, 1868 by Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera through the west face
Normal way High tour from the Höchst hut , over the Weißbrunnerferner and the northwest ridge

The Hintere Eggenspitze ( Italian Cima Sternai ) is a 3443 meter high mountain at the beginning of the Ilmenkamm of the Ortler Alps , a mountain range in the southern Eastern Alps . It lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Trentino in the Stilfserjoch National Park . To the north-west, north-east, south-east and south-west, the tip sends pronounced, partly accessible ridges. Seen from the east, the mountain appears as a rock and ice pyramid, which is often climbed in summer due to its easy accessibility from the Höchst Hut (also Grünseehütte ). In winter, demanding ski tours lead to the summit. The Hintere Eggenspitze was first climbed on July 30, 1868 by the cartographer and alpine explorer Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden over the west face .

location

To the north of the Hinteren Eggenspitze lies the Weißbrunnferner glacier , the formerly extensive glaciers in the east, south and west have melted into meaningless firn fields due to global warming . Neighboring mountains along the northwest ridge are the 3347 meter high Lorchenspitze, about one kilometer away, and the Vordere Eggenspitze , 3385 meters high, in the southeast . The northeast ridge , which curves to the east, ends in the Grünsee , about two kilometers away , a reservoir whose water level is 2529 meters above sea level. The next significant settlement is the village of Gand in the municipality of Martell in the Martell Valley , a side valley of the Vinschgau , which is a good 8½ kilometers to the north as the crow flies .

Base and ascent

The route of the first climbers in 1868 led from the Malga Pra di Saènt alpine pasture to the south at 1784 meters along the torrent in a northerly direction to the then still larger Vedretta di Sternai glacier and through the west face to the summit. We left at 3.45 and took about 6½ hours for the ascent. Then the Lorchenspitze, the Hintere Nonnenspitze ( Cima di Rabbi , 3256 m) were climbed, and at 6 p.m. they reached the Sallentspitze ( Cima di Saènt , 3215 m). The descent led down into the Martell valley.

Today's normal route to the Hintere Eggenspitze leads as a high-altitude tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience from the Grünseehütte, located on the northeast bank of the Grünsee at an altitude of 2561 meters, from the north around the lake in a westerly direction towards the Weißbrunnerferner. From there the path runs to a saddle of the Eggenspitzen north-west ridge and then in a south-easterly direction over the firn-covered north-west ridge to the summit. According to the literature, the walking time is 3 to 4 hours. Other routes lead across the northeast ridge , since 1902 via the southeast ridge in difficulty UIAA II at a Eisneigung of 30 °, as well as the west wall, the way the first Steiger, in the climbing difficulty UIAA II. Base for this route is Rifugio Silvio Dorigoni in 2437 Meters at the top of the Val di Saènt .

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : Hintere Eggenspitze  - Collection of images, videos and audio files