Eastern Marzellspitze
| Eastern Marzellspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 Left rear blackness , in the middle Eastern Marzellspitze, right Middle Marzellspitze |
||
| height | 3550 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria / South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Ötztal Alps | |
| Dominance | 0.18 km → Back blackness | |
| Notch height | 20 m ↓ notch to the rear blackness | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 46 '17 " N , 10 ° 54' 40" E | |
|
||
| First ascent | Mountain guide Hans Pinggera with tourist Victor Hecht on July 24, 1872 | |
| Normal way | Glacier rise over the northeast ridge | |
| particularities | Summit point in a firn field | |
The Eastern Marzellspitze ( Italian Punta di Marzèl Est ) is a 3550 m (according to other information also 3537 or 3533 m ) high summit in the Schnalskamm in the Ötztal Alps . The summit lies exactly on the state border between the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian province of South Tyrol . According to literature, the first clearly documented ascent of the Eastern Marzellspitze took place on July 24, 1872, by the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden and the alpinist Victor Hecht ( OeAV Prague section).
Location and surroundings
Neighboring mountains in the course of the Schnalskamm are the Mittlere Marzellspitze ( 3532 m ) in the southwest and the Hintere Schwärze in the northeast ( 3624 m ). The eastern Marzellspitze can be seen as a shoulder in the southwest ridge of the Hinteren Schwärze, from which the summit point is separated by an only slightly pronounced notch. The Mutmalspitze ( 3528 m ) rises to the north . In the north-west of the eastern Marzellspitze lies the Marzellferner and in the north-east the Schalfferner .
The closest settlements are about 10 kilometers as the crow flies north of Vent in the Ötztal and 8 kilometers south of Karthaus in Schnalstal . In the south, the mountain building breaks off in the Pfossental . The slopes that fall there are part of the Texel Group Nature Park .
Base and ascent
The path of the first ascent from 1872 led from Pfossental to the south, first in a westerly, then northeastern direction over the Grafferner , east below the Similaun, up to the Similaunipfel. Then you crossed the Eastern Marzellspitze and reached the rear blackness after a good eight hours .
The eastern Marzellspitze can only be climbed from the north as an alpine high tour with appropriate equipment over glaciers. The Martin-Busch-Hütte at an altitude of 2501 meters serves as a base for an ascent over the northeast ridge . From the hut the path leads first south-east over the crevasse Marzellferner towards Hintere Schwärze to the eastern Marzelljoch southwest of the Schwärze , then right along the ridge over gently sloping firn to the summit in a firn field. According to literature, the total walking time is around four hours.
Literature and map
- Walter Klier , Alpine Club Leader Ötztaler Alpen , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
- Alpine club map 1: 25,000, sheet 30/1 Ötztal Alps, Gurgl
Individual evidence
- ↑ Heinrich Hess in: Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Berlin 1894, p. 331 ff.
- ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , Volume V, Munich 1874, p. 320 ff.
- ^ Walter Klier: Alpine Club Guide Ötztal Alps , Munich 2006, p. 391 f.
