Venetian peaks
| Venetian peaks | ||
|---|---|---|
.jpg) seen from the northwestern Schöntaufspitzen, from left: III., II. and right the main summit |
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| height | 3386 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol / Trentino border , Italy | |
| Mountains | Ortler Alps | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 27 '17 " N , 10 ° 41' 20" E | |
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| First ascent | September 24, 1867 by Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera as part of a ridge crossing from the Köllkuppe to the south-west | |
| Normal way | High tour from the Cevedalehütte , over the southwest ridge from the Köllkuppe, or over the southeast flank | |
The Veneziaspitzen ( Italian Cime Venezia ) are glaciated high peaks in the Zufrittkamm , in this section also called Marteller Hauptkamm , a mountain range of the Ortler Alps . The three Veneziaspitzen lie exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Trentino in the Stilfserjoch National Park . The main summit, called Veneziaspitze I , has a height of 3386 m . The Veneziaspitze II is 3371 m and the Veneziaspitze III 3356 m high. All three peaks lie on a ridge that runs from south-west to north-east and is partially covered with firn . The peaks offer a good all-round view, but as they are more difficult to reach than the Köllkuppe ( Cima Marmotta , 3330 m ), they are not climbed as often as this. The I. Veneziaspitze was first climbed on September 24th 1867 by the cartographer and alpine explorer Julius Payer and the mountain guide Johann Pinggera from Sulden over the southwest ridge from the Köllkuppe.
Surroundings
The three peaks of Venice are completely surrounded by glaciers . North of the III. Veneziaspitze extends the Schranferner , then follows, separated by the north ridge of the III. Tip, the Ultenmarktferner and southwest of the north ridge of the II. Tip of the Hohenferner . In the south lies the largest glacier in the area, the Vedretta Careser with a width of about 3 km. Neighboring mountains are seen from the I. Veneziaspitze, the main peak, in the southwest the Köllkuppe about 500 m away, in the northeast the II. Tip 300 m away and finally, 700 m away the III. Top. In the further course of the northeast ridge is the Hintere Schranspitze with a height of 3357 m . The next significant settlement is the winter sports resort Sulden, which is about 13 km as the crow flies in the northwest. The village of Gand in the municipality of Martell in the Martell Valley , a side valley of the Vinschgau , is about 13 km to the north-east.
Base and ascent
The path of the first ascent in September 1867 led by Peio in southern Val di Sole from initially northwards through the Val della Mare up to Lago Lungo at 2,553 m altitude and continue over the glacier Vedretta Marmotta south below the at 3153 m lying height Hohenfernerjochs . From there you walked in a south-easterly direction on the ridge to the summit of the Köllkuppe, and then on to the northeastern I. Veneziaspitze. From the report by Eduard Richter: On the first summit [meaning the Köllkuppe], which Payer did not see as an independent peak, he did not stop, but stayed on the Veneziaspitze for 1½ hours and erected a stone man there . It took Payer and Pinggera almost 10 hours to climb.
Even today, the Veneziaspitzen are usually climbed after crossing the Köllkuppe. Support points for this normal route , i.e. the easiest ascent, are either the Zufallhütte at 2265 m altitude or the Marteller Hut ( 2610 m ), both in the uppermost Martell valley to the north. The path leads in a southerly direction as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience over the Hohenferner up to the Hohenfernerjoch, then over the sharply formed firn ridge (about 30 ° incline) northeast to the Köllkuppe. In the further course of the firn-covered northeast ridge, which is heavily overgrown to the northwest , the Venezian peaks are reached. According to the literature, the walking time is 3½ hours from the Marteller Hütte. The south-eastern flank of the main summit in Venezia was crossed for the first time in 1877; the ascent takes about 2½ hours from the Cevedalehütte ( 2608 m ). In 1891 all three peaks were crossed together for the first time, the starting point in this case is the Schranjoch at 3229 m in the east of the III. Top.
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3000m peaks in South Tyrol. 70 worthwhile alpine tours. Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9
- Louis Friedmann in Eduard Richter : The Development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin, 1894, p. 151 ff.
- August Petermann: Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen , Supplement 27, Gotha 1869
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 045, Laces / Latsch
