Thurwieserspitze
| Thurwieserspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 Thurwieserspitze around 1890 |
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| height | 3652 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol / Sondrio border , Italy | |
| Mountains | Ortler Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.6 km → Monte Zebrù | |
| Notch height | 299 m ↓ Ortler Pass | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 29 '45 " N , 10 ° 31' 28" E | |
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| First ascent | August 20, 1869 by Theodor Harpprecht and Josef Schnell | |
| Normal way | from the Rifugio V ° Alpini as an alpine tour over the Zebruferner , the Thurwieserjoch and the east ridge to the summit | |
The Thurwieserspitze (Italian name: Punta Thurwieser ) is a 3652 meter high mountain in the Kristallkamm , a mountain range of the western Ortler Alps , a mountain range of the southern Eastern Alps , that runs from the Stilfser Joch to the Ortler Pass . It lies exactly on the border between the Italian provinces of Bolzano - South Tyrol and Sondrio in the Stilfserjoch National Park . It got its name in the 1860s from the Viennese geologist and co-founder of the Austrian Alpine Club , Edmund von Mojsisovics , in honor of the alpinist, meteorologist and priest Karl Thurwieser . The mountain appears from the east as an evenly shaped firn pyramid and sends out pronounced ridges in an east-west direction, which form the crystal ridge . The summit of the Thurwieserspitze is connected to the Trafoier Eiswand to the west by the almost one kilometer long Bäckmanngrat , named after the Petersburg naturalist and State Councilor Carl Bäckmann. The peak was first climbed on August 20, 1869 by the Stuttgart alpinist Theodor Harpprecht and the mountain guide Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner , after a first attempt by a lieutenant Scheibler from the k. k. Pioneer corps from Sulden with the mountain guide Johann Pinggera had failed. Rose von Rosthorn-Friedmann was the first female mountaineer to reach the summit on July 22, 1888. Today the Thurwieserspitze is climbed from the Rifugio Quinto Alpini ( Alpinihütte ) to the south .
geology
- See Monte Zebrù
Surroundings
The Thurwieserspitze is surrounded by glaciers in the north and east . At the foot of the north face of the column-rich is circus addition ( Vedretta del Circo ), the accumulation zone to the southeast of the nose horn Ferners ( Vedretta del Naso is one), and in the east extending Zebruferner ( Vedretta dello Zebrù ). The closest summit in the course of the Bäckmanngrat is the 3565 meter high Trafoier Eiswand in the west. Towards the northeast, after the Thurwieserjoch has cut , the Große Eiskogel (3547 meters) follows along the ridge and, separated by the Ortlerpass ( Passo dell'Ortles ) to the northeast , at an altitude of 3353 meters, the Ortler ( Ortles ) with a height of 3905 meters. To the east, beyond the Zebruferner, lies Monte Zebrù at an altitude of 3735 meters. The village of Trafoi , near Gomagoi in the Trafoital, is about six kilometers as the crow flies to the north, the South Tyrolean Sulden ( Solda ) is about six kilometers to the northeast.
Base and ascent
The route of the first climber in 1869 led from Trafoi in the north in a southerly direction, past the Three Holy Fountains ( Santuario delle Tre Fontane ), on to the Niederen Ortlerferner ( Vedretta Bassa dell 'Ortles ) and up to the Thurwieserjoch ( Passo Thurwieser , on 3480) Meters above sea level). The summit was reached in just under 10 hours via the east ridge . After a stay of seven minutes on the summit in freezing cold , the descent to the south over the Zebruferner began. It took a good five hours down to the Alpe Il Pastore (2168 m) in the upper Zebru Valley ( Val Zebrù ).
The ascent route over the sharply cut, up to 50 ° inclined east ridge, which is often covered by blank ice in summer, is still the normal route today , but it can only be climbed as a high-altitude tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The Rifugio V ° Alpini at 2878 meters above sea level, east above Sant'Antonio in Val Zebrù, serves as the base for this trail . According to the literature, the walking time is about three hours. Very difficult combined (rock / ice) climbing routes in the degrees of difficulty UIAA II to IV + lead through the southeast face (UIAA II) since 1895, over the south ridge (UIAA III), southwest face ( Zsigmondyweg ) (UIAA II) and since 1940 through the east face in UIAA grade IV +. A classic alpine tour runs over the Bäckmanngrat over to the Trafoier Eiswand in UIAA grade III to IV and an ice incline of 55 °.
Literature and map
- Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen , 9th edition, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3
- Yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , Volume I, Vienna 1869, p. 42
- Wilhelm Hammer : Collection of geological guides , Volume 22, Borntraeger Brothers, Berlin 1922
- Casa Editrice Tabacco , Tavagnacco: Carta topografica 1: 25,000, sheet 08, Ortles-Cevedale / Ortler area
Individual evidence
- ↑ Louis Friedmann in Eduard Richter : The Development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Berlin 1894, pp. 133 ff.
- ^ Peter Holl: Alpine Club Guide Ortleralpen , Munich 2003, p. 183, ff., Margin no. 565 ff.
